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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 2:02 pm 
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Help to locate urgently needed parts
I am running a Historic Formula Ford Ginetta G18B which has Triumph 1300 / 1500 FWD drive shafts (actually at the rear of the race car)
At Silverstone I wrecked the outer flange which is connected to the brake disc and the CV drive shaft. The same part was fitted to the 1300 and 1500 FWD. I urgently need a replacement (s) for running at Spa and Brands Legend weekend. Does anyone have the flange or know anyone who is braking a 1300 / 1500 FWD car??
Your help would be very much appreciated !!
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 5:00 pm 
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Location: Coventry
Where are you based?

I might be able to help

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1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
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1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:14 pm 
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Hi I'm based close to Guildford but I can pick up from anyware or arrange for a pick up

Thanks fit your help Tesibill


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 11:08 am 
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I have one in Coventry, as a complete built up upright assembly, I would prefer you to view to confirm suitability, especially knowing it's intended purpose.

I supplied one to Mike Papworth for a similar purpose a couple of years ago

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BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 1:46 pm 
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Thanks very much for your reply. I h
Ave attached a couple of the broken flange
and drive shaft. Is it possible
to send me a Private Email and we can arrange
how to meet up etc. I'm new to forums but I think there is
a button to send one? If not please let me know
Cheers Tesibill
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 7:16 pm 
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Pm sent

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BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 8:14 pm 
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Sorry I don't have any left, but this drive flange is also common to the MkII Vitesse and MKII and earlier MKIII GT6. The so called "Rotoflex" cars. Just to widen your potential parts pool a bit! It's worth noting that there is a trick to setting up these rear hub bearings and there is (or was, I haven't seen one in years) a special Churchill tool set for doing it. Alternatively, I have drilled the shaft and used a castle nut and split pin to adjust the bearing, rather than rely on shims and a torque figure on a Nylock nut, which is the factory way and which involves the use of the elusive special tools!

Steve

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 9:00 pm 
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Funnily enough Steve, I was going to ask how his bearings were set, as looking at the failure of the hub, I did wonder if it was shimmed correctly

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BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 10:36 pm 
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Thanks for your thoughts on setting the bearing up. Frankly this was not Triumphs finest hour when they designed this one.
Having read and reread the instructions and looked at the flange many times it was a bxxxer to set the bearing up, especially in the pits at Silverstone at 9.00 pm
The reason why the flange failed was the Rose Joint failed at Donnington on the craner curves, and the btm wishbone became detached. This allowed the wheel to cant over and the drive shaft to come partially out and snap off the spline which was not clear at the time. This meant the spline, attached to the flange, was in two pieces. I replaced the drive shaft etc and ran at Silverstone which further damaged the spline and snapped the threaded section and nut off the end.
I have found that it is possible to fit the bearing and load them up and try spacers and shims until there is a small amount of play. Of course it is possible to do the same with a castle nut to adjust but I have tried to stay with the nylox style nut.
Nice to hear that it was fitted to other Triumphs, so there are a few more frustrated owners around the country!!!
Thanks again for all your thoughts and comments much appreciated Bill


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 8:56 am 
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If you search this forum, there is a link to the credit card method af setting these bearings, which is very effective

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BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 9:22 am 
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Thanks done a search but I am unable to locate the CC method...any clues? Cheers Bill


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:05 pm 
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Let me have a look, it's in the Sheila the 1300 thread somewhere, a link to another site.

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BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:11 pm 
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http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/inde ... ng/en.html

There you go

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BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 1:39 pm 
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Ahhhh...very close to my method, great minds think alike.

I too saw Mr Haynes instructions to take it to your friendly Triumph dealer, so I knew I was back on my own.

Differences in methods:-

I was using new bearings so I used a threaded bar through the flange and a suitable sized socket on the inside to simulate the CV face. I tightened the nut and rotated the bearing every few turns until the bearing was just binding. I then used an electronic Vernier Gauge to get the difference between the shaft and the bearing face, much the same way the ruler / credit card (a debit card is cheaper) / feeler gauges was used.
I tried it in a couple of places around the shaft/ bearing to make sure it was square. Someone had used a hammer to remove the inner bearing previously slightly damaging the face of the shaft so I had to have it squared in a lathe before trying it all over again. This of course changed the dimensions and the size of the spacer. When I do it again I will take a photo of the set up with the threaded bar...just in case there are any more people trying this out there.
Thanks again for the help.
Bill


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 6:20 pm 
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I have just returned from Dijon racing and I have broken another flange so I need another 1or 2 flanges so can anyone supply any new or used ??

Thanks Bill


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