The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:26 pm 
If it does the same again when down tomorrow I will record it


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:31 pm 
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Rob

The box that contained all your new parts ie clutch plate / pressure plate and bearing - did the box have Powertune on it.

Paul

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 5:15 pm 
Hi all here are some videos from which the noise can be heard.

Think Paul has hit nail on head as he suggested from experience non OE release bearings supplied in Powertrain kits have caused him noise problems.

Will dig out the box to confirm if the kit is powertrain or not.

Meanwhile for your listening pleasure see vids below, ear plugs are advised.

http://s1382.photobucket.com/user/robam ... l.mp4.html
http://s1382.photobucket.com/user/robam ... b.mp4.html


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 5:32 pm 
I can't offer any suggestions, but that sounds awful!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 6:07 pm 
Quote:
I can't offer any suggestions, but that sounds awful!
I know, not one to turn the stereo up over!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 8:26 pm 
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Just to put everybody in the picture - I contacted Rob a few days ago via a PM regarding this issue. I too had a issue after I change my clutch components. On start up I heard a noise coming from within the bell housing - after a small period of time the noise dissappeared. I can only describe this noise as a hollow rattle, the only thing that I could think off that would produce that noise was spline rattle. So engine out to check pressure plate, release bearing etc.

I can confirm that it was spline rattle - the new bearing that I fitted was smaller in its overall thickness by about 4mm and this was a Powertune bearing, the old one was a RHP so I could compare them. I purchased a RHP bearing and I have had no further rattles for the bellhousing.

I even order two other bearing part No. GRB209 from two different Triumph spares people and both time Powertune bearing arrived.

I will post some pictures tomorrow of the two bearings for you all to compare.

NOTE TO ALL: If your changing your clutch components make sure you FIT a RHP Bearing not the cheap rubbish that comes with the kit.

Regards
Paul

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 11:06 pm 
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Not sure what you mean by spline rattle. Do you mean the splines on the input shaft rattling on the driven plate?

Does the noise change if you put the clutch down or does it stay the same?

It sounds to me like the flywheel is touching something on the backplate or the crank seal housing, but I've never heard anything like it before.

Sorry to say the box has to come off again....you get better with practice.

I also reckon you would feel it if you took the plugs out and turned the engine by hand somehow.

You could also try listening down a tube where the clutch release arm goes through the bell housing.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 10:25 am 
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Quote:
Not sure what you mean by spline rattle. Do you mean the splines on the input shaft rattling on the driven plate?
Does the noise change if you put the clutch down or does it stay the same?
It sounds to me like the flywheel is touching something on the backplate or the crank seal housing, but I've never heard anything like it before.Jonners
I was referring to the splines that are on the clutch pressure plate. After a period of running the engine the rattle dissappeared not completely, depress the clutch pedal the rattle was very faint. I had never heard anything like it before, the noise was not there prior to changing the clutch assembly (old RHP bearing removed) powertune bearing fitted (came with the kit) and since fitting a RHP clutch release bearing the noise has gone.

Paul

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 6:20 pm 
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Gents

Image

Image

The bearing on the left hand side of the picture is the original RHP bearing and the one on the right is the powertune bearing. Significant difference in overall thickness, but looking at the second picture the inner bearing seat of the bearing on the RHP sits slight inside where the inner bearing seat on the Powertune protrudes.

With the aid of a vernier and a metal ruler.

Overall thickness of the RHP bearing was 19.30mm
Distance form the underside or top of the bearing to the face of the inner bearing seat was 1mm
Took one away from the other = 18.30mm

Overall thickness of the Powertune bearing was 16.45 - no need to subtract any dimension as the inner bearing protudes.

So 18.30mm (RHP) - 16.45mm (powertune) = 1.85mm difference in overall thickness.

Paul

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:43 pm 
Hi Paul

So having heard the lovely tune mine plays do you still suspect the release bearing?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 8:53 pm 
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Quote:
Hi Paul

So having heard the lovely tune mine plays do you still suspect the release bearing?
Rob

Mine was not as bad as that - do you have a very long screw driver that you can use as a listening stick. One end on the bell housing and stick the other end in your ear and listen - I suspect very much that its the bearing.

I previously asked whether you checked the run out on the flywheel - you could check that now even with the engine in - as there is a 1/2 of a octagonal hole in the bottom of the engine adaptor plate (the one you had powder coated) - you might be able to get the DTI dial needle in there. Whip the plugs out and get somebody to turn the engine over whilst you watch the DTI gauge is showing fly wheel run is 0.002" (thou) max.

Paul

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 11:57 am 
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In general in gear use the thrust bearing should not be in contact with the clutch cover.

The bearing supplied I fitted to the bearing carrier and it was fine,....nice smooth rotating bearing with no protruding inner ridge.

This is a flywheel contact issue....with what and why will not be determined until the box is off again....

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 12:43 pm 
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Its quite easy to get to the clutch cylinder from the top side on an 1850, so would it be worth a try pushing the operating rod further back into the clutch cylinder so the clutch release bearing moves right away from the clutch cover. ?
Tony.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 6:11 pm 
Gearbox back out and returning for investigation

Clutch assembly is a borg and beck kit and release bearing is fine.

As a precaution Im going to replace the spigot bearing (needle roller type) this time before refitting the box after investigation and/or repair

No signs of contact on the Clutch assembly bellhousing or flywheel.

Finally sorted rear brakes, handbrake levers etc and binding issue solved by refitting original drums not the ones supplied new by quillers. Handbrake all adjusted and holding nicely on 4-5 clicks.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 7:03 pm 
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I would use the plain phosphor bronze type....
They cant really fail....only wear a tad.
If a needle roller one goes bad it can ruin the end of an input shaft.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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