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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 4:58 pm 
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Hi James, I know a lot of people dont like using gasket goo, but i was brought up to use "blue hylomar" on any gasket that i was told to fit :) I have always carried on using it and have not had a problem.
It might be worth using it if you come to replace it. I wonder what Steve "carledo" would think of this? As it's not like the "hermetite" stuff.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 11:36 pm 
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I was always taught NEVER to use ANY kind of extra sealant on head gaskets, not Hylomar, silicone (not that it existed in 1970) or especially red Hermetite (the work of the devil, that stuff!) One or two of the real old timers then used to use a product called "Wellseal", all I can remember about it was that it was gooey, brown and absolutely STANK! Don't think I ever tried it myself!

I think Jeroen has the right of it here and there is a slight mismatch between the (decked?) block and the (skimmed?) head. I'm not certain of a cure, never actually having had this problem (though I seem to remember a Stag, many years ago, giving me grief in this area, ISTR swapping the heads for a less heavily skimmed pair eventually) but I would imagine opening out the studholes a tad might help, not sure how much meat is safe to remove there though. Again I bow to Jeroen, the supreme expert on this engine!

Steve

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:50 am 
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As always thanks for everyone's comments and input. I have good news! I am keeping DTR (well unless someone makes me an offer I can't refuse!!! :lol: ) I just love driving it!

I have to agree with Steve, I was always taught never to use anything on a head gasket as well.

Nothing was binding as I mentioned earlier and the head was faced and not skimmed. It's a nice early head and by skimming I'll shorten its lifespan which is why I welded it then faced it. This allows it to be skimmed in the future if needed. I haven't re torqued the head yet but the water leak seems to have stopped, this has been replaced by an oil weep though which is probably coming from the copper O ring on the gasket. This will probably go with a re-torque which I will do today.

It was used every day last week to run errands and ferry the kids around, even with no seat belts! My daughter announced to one of her friends in the school car park at the top of her voice that it had no seat belts in the rear, you should have seen the disapproving looks! I have to admit that having no belts is much easier, I just open the door, throw the kids in, close it and drive off! However it's not safe, some stupid mother deliberately pulled out in front of me and I had to do an emergency stop (locked all 4 wheels up) so new belts will be fitted.

130 miles in and I have been slowly opening it up, revs never going above 3500 and below 1500, no labouring and full throttle etc... I did 25 miles up and down the M3 yesterday to see how it ran. Wow, up to an indicated 130kph in overdrive top at around 3250rpm and sat there very happily. It started to get a bit hot though, half way between 1/2 and 3/4. The temp went back down to normal once I got back on to the Odiham Road so I put this down to the engine still being a bit tight, the heater being on cold and it was hot here, it ran really well after that though. I'll do the same again today and see how the temp sits.

I do have another Payen gasket set which I managed to source and after the first oil change I have a plan for the car! Alun knows (don't spill the beans Alun!!), but it involves a set of HS4s that I have. I have also got a revotec fan kit to fit, those who know me will know that I really don't like mechanical fans!!

As ever, all original items that come off go into a box so that the car can be reverted back to 100% stock if wanted.

First job today after I have done the kids sand pit is to fit new seat belts and I have some Mintex pads so I'll try and get them in. :D

I do want to get it properly resprayed at some point as well, probably next year now. I'll try and get both EGR and DTR done at the same time.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:01 pm 
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Now that I'm keeping the car I'm going to have some fun!

First job, mechanical fan off and new Revotec electric fan in.

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It just needs wiring now. I want to tidy up the relays as well so I'll do that at the same time.

The next thing (well after 500 miles and the oil change) is going to need some input from Jeroen I expect.

I have a Piper BP270 cam, a set of HS4's that are in great condition, never been tampered with but they will need a refurb and convert to fixed jets. HS inlet manifold and a late 3 gallery head with bigger exhaust valves in excellent condition as well, that will also require a refurb. I also have a set of HS6's and a TR7 inlet but I don't think they will be necessary.

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So the plan is to refurb the head and carbs, lightly port the head as per what Jeroen did here... (viewtopic.php?f=4&t=28355&start=15) and swap the early head and Strombergs for this setup. It should essentially be a bolt on upgrade kit and should compliment the bottom end work that has been done on it quite nicely.

I'll need new needles and probably a rolling road set up as well as a vernier pulley so that I can get the valve timing set up correctly. I am thinking about modifying a spare TR7 Sprint air box to fit the HS4's to allow better cold air flow into the carbs without having to fit pancake air filters and suck hot air from around the engine bay.

I have fitted better pads and don't expect Sprint power figures so a TJ brake upgrade although a good idea at the moment isn't necessary. I may fit Sprint wheels and a front spoiler but I want to keep the external appearance stock and everything reversible so may have a look into wider tyres on the spare set of steel rims that I have. That's far off though.

Thoughts?


Last edited by James467 on Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:16 pm 
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Jeroen's thread is a good example of a nice head rebuild.

How's the temps doing? A good test of the new fan I imagine?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:19 pm 
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A veneer timing wheel eh?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:30 pm 
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Quote:
A veneer timing wheel eh?
Kallie needs her dinner Bruce! :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:45 pm 
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Quote:
Jeroen's thread is a good example of a nice head rebuild.

How's the temps doing? A good test of the new fan I imagine?
I want to get it wired in tomorrow, I can tidy the wiring when I swap the head over. Hopefully on Wednesday I can give it a run down the M3 again and see how the temps are.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 7:12 pm 
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Dogged response eh James? :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 7:39 pm 
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Sounds like a great plan, the 1850 should (from what I understand) respond well to a bit of tuning.
Result on sourcing the cam!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 9:17 pm 
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I still dont think you would part with the car even for a decent offer after all you have been through together :wink:
They seem to be addictive :lol: It's great that you are keeping it and we can follow it's up's and down's :suntan:

Tony

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 Post subject: Hmm......
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 8:27 am 
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I am thinking this is an occasion when I should just shake my head in silence?

:shock: Why fit HS4s?
It's an early car,
the only change away from Strombergs I personnally could make is to fit EFI.




Ian.

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 Post subject: Re: Hmm......
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:06 pm 
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Quote:
I am thinking this is an occasion when I should just shake my head in silence?

:shock: Why fit HS4s?
It's an early car,
the only change away from Strombergs I personnally could make is to fit EFI.




Ian.
Strombergs, whilst very good for a standard engine arent very flexible when it comes to tuning.

On a tuned engine SU's offer a greater scope, parts supply and needle range are much better.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:42 pm 
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How's the temps doing? A good test of the new fan I imagine?
Fan's in, wiring is a bit messy but I want to properly tidy all the relays like I did on Binny. It's a powerful fan, it pulls a hell of a lot more air through the rad at idle than the mechanical fan did. It also draws around 12 amps when running at full chat so I have wired it straight to the battery via a fuse rather than through the ignition switch as per the instructions.

I left the car idling at the side of the house for a good 30 minutes in the sun to simulate traffic. It cut in and out nicely, needle was just after the second dot indicating half way on the gauge when it cut in.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:55 pm 
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That's the whole point of a relay James (I'm sure you know that).

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