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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 1:51 pm 
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When testing the senders, leave them in the same spot to get to room temperature for at least
30 mins to 1 hr.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 2:45 pm 
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When testing the senders, leave them in the same spot to get to room temperature for at least
30 mins to 1 hr.
Yep, did that. Not intentionally mind!! :lol:

Driving it now the temp will rise to under 3/4 then will stay there no matter how hard I push it. I am not sure if the fan is cutting in and out, I'm pretty sure it isn't running all the time because it wasn't on when i pulled up to the traffic lights at the end of the slip road.

I'd like to wire in an indicator light to tell me when the fan is running, I'll get an LED and wire it into the power terminal to the fan that should flick on and off as the fan comes on and off.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 2:53 pm 
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Do a quick check to make sure the temp gauge goes over the 3/4 mark, just to be sure your not hitting the
gauges limit.

I used a led toggle swtich, lights up when the fan is on, and I can swtich on the fan if I want to with the ign
off, the cover acts as a failsafe to revert back to ign temp switching, mounted on the fog light swtich bracket.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 2:59 pm 
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Yep, already got the revotec fan controller switch on there.

Gauge is fine!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 9:44 pm 
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I have some different temperature senders to try.
Hi James, As Mahesh says, these senders are very temperature sensitive. As an example my original Smiths sender reads 682 ohms at "room temp " ~ 68 deg F right now but hold the sensor element for a few seconds and it will rapidly drop to 610 ohms.
And the resistance is not linear with temperature.
Fro memory it is related by something callec "B" value which is different between sensors.
Now the one sender I do like is the 3rd original one:- like mine from your photos.
Can you check the d.c resistance from the copper bulb to the screw thread is <1 ohm please.
I see you have quite a clever dvm. Does it have a thermocouple accessory ?
If so can you check with the sensor in an oil bath at various temperatures please ?
( If not I can help with this )
It would be interesting to compare all 4 units.
Ta,
Tony.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 2:16 pm 
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Sorry Tony, I have had a busy day dealing with an unhappy child! Will do this later for you.

This one doesn't have a thermocouple on it, I can get one that has though, they aren't expensive.

Looking at the engine today I was wondering about fitting a 5/8 UNF hosetail to the water transfer housing at the back of the head and feeding it into the heater inlet to remove that hot spot.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 3:03 pm 
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Looking at the engine today I was wondering about fitting a 5/8 UNF hosetail to the water transfer housing at the back of the head and feeding it into the heater inlet to remove that hot spot.
Doing that won't remove the hot spot James
but it will give (some) more heat from the heater (when it is set to hot).

It won't work because it will only take a very small amount of coolant away from said hot spot, given the small diameter of the outlet in the transfer housing.




Ian.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 3:24 pm 
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Ok, thanks Ian. I thought that by letting the water flow out of the back of the heat it may displace some heat, but if that's not the case I wont mess with it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 10:45 am 
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DTR ran superb on Saturday across to South London in the heat, temp stayed between 1/2 and 3/4 on the M25, had a few big hills to climb as well. Accelerated up Leatherhead and Reigate hill happily, then all they way up Shepherds hill and Farthing down. On the way back we had to sit in bad traffic on the M25 and although it got hot there was never a problem, once on the A3 it cooled down nicely.

Still only done 650 miles on the new engine but it is as smooth as anything cruising at 75.

I'm tempted to drive into London in it tomorrow.


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