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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 9:09 am 
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there's no spark at the coil so I'm suspecting a duff coil. Once I've dug out one of my spare coils, I can try it.
Then you still not know. Connect a test lead with a lamp and check your dizzy. Then you know.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 11:56 am 
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Jeroen, I followed the words of "wisdom" in the Haynes. I connected the test lamp frm the postitive terminal of the battery to the lead from the dizzy that would go to the coil when setting the staic timing. I don't know if that is the right thing to do. I removed the king lead at the dizzy end and got a helper (Adam) to hold the lead next to a suitable earth while I operated the stater motor and there was no spark so I can only surmise that the coil is duff.

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Meetings take place on the 1st Wednesday of every month at The Hollies Sports & Social Club, 12 Hough Lane, Bramley, Leeds, LS13 3NE
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the modern)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"I can help you stop smoking in bed. Buy a water bed and fill it with petrol." - Bob Monkhouse OBE (1928-2003)


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 12:24 pm 
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Then it's time to bin that Haynes manual or you did read wrong. You take off the lead from the dizzy that goes to the coil. That lead, now on one side still on the dizzy, you connect through a test light to the pos side of the battery.

Now you have the dizzy disconnected from the coil so it will never give a spark when cranking.

The thing to test is if the points do open and close and make contact to ground. With this setup and turning the engine by hand the testlight must go on and off. When the points are closed the testlight should be on because grounded by the points. When the points are open the testlight should be out.

If the test light stays out, the points don't ground. That can be dirt, on new points protective wax, or the baseplate where the points are on is not connected properly to ground.

When the testlight stays on there's a short to ground where the wire leaves the dizzy or the wires attached to the points are fitted wrong or have contact with the base plate.

So when turning the engine by hand and the light goes on and off you can suspect the coil. But if the test light doesn't pulsate it's a dizzy problem.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 12:47 pm 
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The problem here is that the car seemed to be working and then you swapped a load of stuff around again and now it doesn't work. Stop fiddling with things!

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1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
1993 Mazda Eunos Roadster JDM S-Special Type II
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 5:54 pm 
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Dave, when you had it running but with no pulling power, did you check and/or adjust the ignition timing? Understanding the basics here is important. When it was running did you try to adjust (ie advance) the ign timing?. Powerspark units have been known to fail or never work from new as I found out so dont think just because youve tried one thats its another problem rather than the powerspark unit being faulty.
As Jeroen mentioned, dirty (new) points with a protective coating will stop current flowing and hence no spark. New points should have a wipe with fine wet and dry between the contact faces then gapped. Dont keep changing parts until you understand what is at fault. Jeroens check for power should be followed. You can have spark but in the wrong timing sequence so work on that first.
A cheeky dirty way of checking for spark rather than rotating the engine which can be awkward is set the No1 cylinder 10 degrees before TDC then with distributer loose rotate in both directions so the points open and close and watch for king lead spark (held close to earth but fitted in coil). When you find the point of spark stop rotating and lock dizzy. Car should fire if you have spark. When it does use a TIMING light to verify timing after warm up and correct idle speed.
Throwing a new coil at it then doing 10 other things at the same time tells you (and us) nothing even if it runs ok after doing all that. You need to know what it at fault. Its unusual for a coil to fail without warning from a running state ie misfiring would be noticed.
Not a rant mate but slightly frustrated youre chasing you tail and getting further away from the "fix"

Cheers

Tony

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 6:32 pm 
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I've made a bit of progress.

I went into the garage this evening determined to try again. When I turned up my feeler gagues (I keep them in the glovebox so they don't get rusty like the last ones did) I suddenly had an epiphany. I'd been setting the wrong gap. I tried it with the points in the Lucas dizzy and the car wouldn't start. I fitted the original points that were in the Delco dizzy that I knew were working and I fitted the Delco dizzy. I've managed to get the engine running (badly) but I ran down the battery so I've had to give up for now and put it on charge.

I'm getting there.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the 1st Wednesday of every month at The Hollies Sports & Social Club, 12 Hough Lane, Bramley, Leeds, LS13 3NE
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the modern)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"I can help you stop smoking in bed. Buy a water bed and fill it with petrol." - Bob Monkhouse OBE (1928-2003)


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 9:44 pm 
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Dave, I didn't wait 17 day's only to read this. I thought all was fine and you were on a holiday with your dolomite.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 9:59 pm 
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Hi Dave, O.K. its started and basically running on points on the Delco dizzy. Good stuff. Now in that state can you get your strobe light on it, (disconnect the vac; advance) and check where the timing is. Go for about 11 deg BTDC on the 1850.
Then just as a check see if pot 4 gives the same answer and is illuminating the timing marks regularly.
Then have a look-see at pots 2 and 3 and see if the timing is now about 180 deg further round. And that the light is pulsing regularly and consistently.
If the car is O.K. at this point the reconnect the vac; advance and see if the timing has advanced a bit and is still pulsing O.K.
Then if things are still O.K. see what happens when you give it a few revs on all pots.
Let us know then if its O.K. we can look at fuel things.
Yes, I have to think twice about 25 thou and 0.25 mm as well on my set of gauges.
Tony.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 10:30 pm 
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Any updates Dave? I'm missing my fix from your thread for a while now.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 8:31 am 
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It's very hard by now to find a way to have it running on a way what wasn't suggested here.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 8:33 am 
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Surely if I can get DTR running after standing since 1992 then getting this running should be a doddle Dave.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 11:46 am 
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Come on Dave, here is something to encourage you, paraphrased by me, originally by some bloke called Bill:

"Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more;
...
imitate the action of the tiger;
Stiffen the sinews, summon up the blood,
Disguise fair nature with hard-favour'd rage;
Then lend the eye a terrible aspect;
Let pry through the portage of the head
...
Now set the teeth and stretch the nostril wide,
Hold hard the breath and bend up every spirit
To his full height. On, on,
...
show us here the mettle of your pasture; let us swear
That you are worth your breeding; which I doubt not;
For there is none of you so mean and base,
That hath not noble lustre in your eyes.
I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips,
Straining upon the start.
The game's afoot"

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Karl-less

Absence of a Dolly or Tolly at the moment.


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