I dont understand? It was running before you swopped the carbs, now its not, so you have pulled the ignition system to bit and messed that up? Surely logic would dictate theres a fault with what you have done to the carbs?
Also - a fuel leak wont stop it running, unless its a massive fuel leak thats running out before it gets to the carbs - but that wouls be obvious. You can't "think" theres a fuel leak - there is or there is not.
Start from scratch. Remove the rocker cover. Find TDC on the front pulley and make sure both valves on number 1 are closed - i.e. cams pointing away from the followers. If they are not rotate the engine 360 degrees round to TDC again. Dizzy cap off. Make sure the rotor arm is pointing to a segment in the cap - thats number 1 cylinder. Stick the car in gear and pull it forward - note which way the rotor arm turns. Now count round in that direction the segments in the cap - cylinder 3, 4, then 2. That should sort the firing order. Rotate the engine back round again (2 turns) until the timing marks line up before the TDC mark. Ignition on. Running points still? Set the gap and make sure they are clean. Loosen the dizzy clamp bolts and rotate the dizzy a little back and forth until you see the points close - there will be a visible spark on the points. No spark? check the wiring to the coil and dizzy, also the condensor. Electronic ignition? As above but you wont see a spark - but you will hear the crack from the HT lead as it discharges - be careful, it packs a punch... This should be enough to get the ignition system working and roughly set up. Take the plugs out, spin the engine over to get rid of any excess fuel, clean the plugs, gap em and put em back.
Does it run? then nail the bloody bonnet down!