The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:28 am 
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Steering wheel looks ace, well done on that. :thumbsup:

Tony

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 11:26 pm 
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Mark,

I do not want to be a party pooper or spoil your thread but your head doesn't seem to be ok and reworked to a normal standard.

The valves are too deep in the seats. The cause can be slightly too small valves or wrong grinded or most likely the seats are machined wrong. Both cases you have to replace the valves or seats. I think your machineshop should not have provided you your head in this state.

Having the valves this way will have less opening area so your engine will not deliver it's max power but that is the less worrying. The valves will after some relative short time not seal. Normally a valve sits on top of a seat and not in a seat. In your situation when there is little wear the valve does not seal properly anymore and will burn.

I even think it's impossible to adjust the valves this way. You will need very thin shims. I would check that first. No valve springs yet but only the top spring seat fitted with a shim and a bucket. Then fitting the camshaft and see if all is ok and adjustable.

I have to diagnose from your pics only ofcourse but it seems very seriously wrong.

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This is your head.

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From a different angle. It looks like the valves are flush and some even more than flush towards the inside.

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This is an 1850 head of mine with valves flush after about 250.000km. When the valves are on this point they technically can't seal anymore and burn away as seen.

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Same head another cilinder.

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This is my latest head. Your can see the new valves are on top of the seats.

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More detail.

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This is my volvo head with new exhaust valves that i replaced about 2 months ago. Clearly you can see the valves on top.

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This is a sprint head from many years ago. Valves on top. These are used valves and reworked seats.


Reworking seats and valves is not rocketscience but a normal machining procedure for a machineshop and I think yours did a very bad job.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 6:00 pm 
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I'd be surprised if he had messed it up as he's done quite a few, especially race engines but the proof will come when I assemble out and do some measuring

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1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
1993 Mazda Eunos Roadster JDM S-Special Type II
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 11:36 am 
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For those of you who don't do Facecloth then 'We Have Lights'.

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I attached my power supply to the battery terminals and had a play with a few circuits. The supply gives 2 amps max so it's safe to use, though it does mean you can't run the headlights or the fan (though the relays clicked) but I was able to check out the rear stop lamps, number plate lamps and front side lights. The hazards sort of worked in they lit up but I had no indicators or brake lights. I did though have a horn and also the dash clocks lit up nicely.

More testing to follow. The power supply should enable me to test the rest of the circuits with a multimeter.

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1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
1993 Mazda Eunos Roadster JDM S-Special Type II
2015 BMW 118d Sport


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 12:18 pm 
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My rebuilt carbs have been languishing in a box for several months now. With the head back I set about building up the manifold.

The manifold went off with the head so it could be better matched to the inlets on the head and also to remove some of the worst casting flaws. Unfortunately the manifold still needed a clean as Peter Burgess doesn't have a bead blaster facility.

I ended up having my manifold bead blasted, I was thinking vapour blasting but it was more convenient to take it to my usual chap who only does soda and bead. Am pleased with the result though.

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I started by fitting club sourced carb mounts. The repro rubber mounts just don't last so fitting the solid ones will mean they stay together pretty much forever. Both sides of the mounts have o rings for sealing, I actually used a smear of blue Hylomar for good measure!

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It's a bit fiddly to fit the carb bodies along with the linkages but I got there in the end. It was necessary to cut the studs down on the mounts to fit the bodies as they are too long. Thermostat, temp sender and breather pipes complete the job.

Image

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1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
1993 Mazda Eunos Roadster JDM S-Special Type II
2015 BMW 118d Sport


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 2:57 pm 
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:thumbsup: Very nice.
Where did the breather pipes come from?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 3:25 pm 
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Quote:
:thumbsup: Very nice.
Where did the breather pipes come from?
The rubber ones were from RB I think, they aren't anything special. I'd like to have used some silicone but you can't get the shape. The rubber ones are OK for a few years till they crack and perish but at least they're cheap.

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1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
1993 Mazda Eunos Roadster JDM S-Special Type II
2015 BMW 118d Sport


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 4:23 pm 
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Manifold looks sexy! :eyes4u:

I've had the studs made shorter now Mark. Bit late for your build I know.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 10:16 am 
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That manifold looks like you painted it! :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Told you it would come up well, looks almost as good as mine!! :lol: :thumbsup:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 12:06 pm 
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shiny 8) :eyes4u:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 3:20 pm 
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....after multiple bitches about the stud length its getting sorted...

Better late than never.

Jonners

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:07 am 
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On assembling the head as suggested by Jeroen that the inlet valves in particular do sit too high in the head. I thought I might have been able to work with what I had but even using the thinnest shims I could not get adequate valve clearance. This is very annoying and has led some some heated discussion between myself and the machine shop who insist there is not a problem. I should add I'm not going to go into the details of my experience on a public forum. I suspect the seats have been cut before, the additional cut probably means too much meat has come off them. There is no alternative but to fit new seats. I could probably work with the exhausts which will require shims in the mid 80's but I'm tempted to just have new seats fitted throughout and be done with it. This additional work will also cause my chamber volumes to change so further work may be necessary not to mention the additional handling risks damaging the ready skimmed mating face.

I have other people to speak to about valve seats and fitting but the question is are they easily available? I waited a long time for the head to come back to me, I'm not really in the mood for being messed around.

I'll now have to strip the head back to bare again and hope for better luck the second time around. It's just annoying that until you start to shim the thing up you cannot be 100% sure.

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1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
1993 Mazda Eunos Roadster JDM S-Special Type II
2015 BMW 118d Sport


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:14 am 
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They should be standard fitting Mark. Roe engineering haven't had a problem getting any for the two heads that I have had done.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 2:00 pm 
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Quote:
They should be standard fitting Mark. Roe engineering haven't had a problem getting any for the two heads that I have had done.
That's good to know. If I still lived down your way I'd probably take it to Roe but I think I may have found someone local to me who I'd um'd and ah'd taking it to in the first place.

Hopefully it'll be a straightforward job and can be back with me again soon.

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1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
1993 Mazda Eunos Roadster JDM S-Special Type II
2015 BMW 118d Sport


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 2:30 pm 
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Well if there are any problems then I'm sure we could meet somewhere and I can drop it in to them. Need to remove DTRs head and get it over to them


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