The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
It is currently Fri Apr 19, 2024 2:00 am

All times are UTC+01:00




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 357 posts ]  Go to page Previous 114 15 16 17 1824 Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 9:24 am 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1911
Location: Hampshire
Quote:
The basic kit which included the chemicals and 1 bucket to use as the tank was about £60. I also bought some other buckets with lids for other chemicals from Amazon which cost £6, and also an aquarium heater which cost another £9 but if you're plating in colder climes is definitely worth it. I already had the power supply but if you did want one they are very cheap on Ebay!
Looking at how good your results are that's cheap enough to have a look into, I normally get charged £30 per batch regardless of quantity and I blast the parts for him beforehand as well! I'll have a load to do for the MG and a couple more bits to do for the Sprint so I'll have a look into this.
Quote:
I wouldn't be overly concerned about hydrogen embrittlement using this kit. If you set up well you're using extremely low current and as such you'll be promoting the uptake of hydrogen at a very low level. HE is more of a problem in larger commercial operations where you're running much hotter and at a much higher current which is necessitated by the need to up production. Also the parts I've plated are mostly pretty small, therefore they don't take a huge time to plate. It's also worth noting that since cyanide is no longer used as part of the electrolyte the baths are much more efficient and there's less risk of HE.
That makes sense.

Where did you get the kit from?


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 9:35 am 
Offline
TDC Staffs Area Organiser
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
The kit came from http://www.classic-plating.co.uk/index.html but you can also get them from a few other places.

If you have blasting facilities then all the better. Fortunately none of my parts were that bad but it would have saved me a lot of time. The people I used to use for plating charged me a minimum of £25.

I've been working on a major service of the Mazda this week, which I've really enjoyed doing so I've not been able to do any work with my new shiny parts. I do love having a bigger garage now, it makes working so much easier and the ability to work on both cars in the evenings in the warm is a huge bonus. Mazda should be finished this weekend so then I can crack on with the subframe.

_________________
Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 8:12 pm 
I have had one of these kits for some time and it still works.

Mine did not come with any acid pickle so I used brick cleaner which worked very well. A good result depends a lot on the preparation.


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 8:19 pm 
Offline
TDC Staffs Area Organiser
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
I've been getting on with my subframe assembly. I had a head start as the vast majority of the parts were already prepared so it's just a case of putting it all together.
The subframe itself is an Ebay find of several years ago. It's new old stock and was blasted and powder coated so it looks lovely. Moving it from house to house and around the garage had dislodged a surprising amount of blasting media from inside so my first job was to hoover that up before putting it on some stands on a moveable board so I can wheel it around easily.

Image

I started with the angle brackets which the upper wishbone pivot goes through. I figured that as this is required to move freely that it would be worth applying a bit of grease to the shaft of the long bolt, movement is certainly smoother as a result. The only problem I had with these brackets was having the wrong length bolts so I fitted some 3" ones and then replaced them when the corrects shorter ones arrived.

So far I've added just the one camber shim. When I took the old subframe apart I had 2 thick shims each side but the car had been lowered quite a bit. I've fitted one for now and then I can adjust once I've got the engine in the car and set my suspension set to the final height.

I then added the upper ball joints. I had several sets to choose from, in the end I opted for some Motorcraft branded ones. As these are not re-greaseable I whipped off the gaitors and worked some grease into the joint as best I could. I'm still debating swapping them as they are surprisingly stiff vs some others I have. I do have some Stanpart ones which are re-greasable and seem less stiff so I might yet swap them. Upper wishbones are new old stock fitted with Superflex polyurethane bushes.

Image

Lower wishbones are again new old stock items fitted with the correct joint/bush. I chose not to have these powder coated as I wasn't sure it could be done without damaging the bushes so I simply masked off the bushes and spray painted them with chassis black. You can't really tell the difference!

Image

Image

I then hit a bit of a wall in terms of being missing some correct sized bolts and washers so couldn't fit the drag struts and I was also missing some correct sized washers for the stub axles on the uprights so instead opted to fit the steering rack. This is a club re-conned unit so should be good. It fitted up quite easily using new brackets and Superflex bushes. I also added the track rod ends, again I worked some grease into the joints before fitting. I thought I had some re-greasable ones somewhere but perhaps I didn't actually buy them after all. One side of the rack doesn't have the best thread on it so I might run a die down it, though typically I don't have one of the right size.

Whilst I wait to pick up some bolts and bits from work I had time to spare so decided to paint the front hubs. These are from Mick Dolphin and came with the correct sized studs, unlike my existing ones. They came covered in storage grease but were unpainted so after a soak in some de-greaser and a little more work with some brake cleaner and a cloth they were ready for masking and painting. I had some spare brake calliper paint so used that, it's tough and doesn't require a primer. I cured the paint in the oven and they look good. I have new bearings to fit to these, somewhere I have some old outer races I can use to assist the fitting. Sadly my press is at my parents in Bristol so I might have to borrow the one at work. I figure a press is a bit easier than using a big hammer and lump of wood!

Image

Image

_________________
Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


Last edited by SprintMWU773V on Wed Jul 26, 2017 2:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 8:32 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1911
Location: Hampshire
I'm pleased I spent so long looking for my NOS subframe....

Oooooh I can see us at TDCIR one year, your Sprint up against mine in the concours!

I wouldnt want to be the judge making that call!! :lol:

Although.... I did see some pitting on that back axle casing! 8)


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 8:11 pm 
Offline
TDC Staffs Area Organiser
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
Fortunately I work for a classic car specialist so we have quite a stock of imperial nuts and bolts. Unfortunately we didn't have any 5/16 x 2.75" UNF bolts nor any 3/8 x 2" UNC in so I've had to order those from elsewhere. In fact I've been missing an annoying number of not only parts but tools to do this job as I also didn't seem to have a 7/16 UNF tap nor a 1/2 UNF die.

My previous attempt to build the uprights had failed as I didn't have the right sized tap to clean out the threads in the upright. Armed with the correct tools I cleared a surprising amount of muck out of them but was at least then able to fit the ball joints and lower shield. These ball joints are Stanpart ones. They were quite dry of grease so I worked in a bit more and re-fitted the boots. I also fitted the stub axles, my previous attempt was thwarted by a lack of sufficiently large washers to go under the lock nut.

Image

Putting these to one side I installed the drag struts. Getting the bushes on was quite tricky as the hole in them is not big enough to just push over the lip on the shaft. I resorted to using a washer and a nut to press it on, worked well. I then did pretty much the same on the subframe end which is tricky to get to, I used a small socket set and bar.

I was then ready to install the uprights, locating the lower ball joint in the wishbone and then swinging the top wishbone down to seat the upper ball joint in the upright, I then did up the nylocs finger tight, I won't bother to tighten them till there's some weight on them. Lastly I did the same with the track rod ends. I didn't think the thread was very good on one end of the rack so ran the die I'd bought down it which improved it markedly.

Image

Image

Image

Image

So the subframe assembly is pretty much done. I won't fit the callipers or the hubs before I fit it to the car, primarily to keep the weight now for manoeuvring it but I will need to look at both of those. I still have to fit the anti roll bar and I have also got two bolts to replace on the top ball joints as these seem a little short with the thread not even coming to the end of the nyloc.

The callipers I bought a few years ago as 'reconned' units. They look like they've been cleaned up, new pistons, seals and some zinc plating. I'm sure they're fine but the finish on the zinc is a bit rubbish so I'm going to have them re-stripped and then painted in a nice calliper paint. I've had some done in silver before but actually I'm thinking metallic gold as this is similar in colour to the zinc finish. The pistons are not stainless so I'll swap those out at the same time. It's a bit excessive to rebuild perfectly good callipers but I can't bring myself to put these on the car.

Image

_________________
Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


Last edited by SprintMWU773V on Wed Jul 26, 2017 2:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 5:40 pm 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:45 pm
Posts: 11179
Location: Middlesex
Looking great Mark.

I was a bit worried you may have missed the rack locating plate - the small trapezoidal thing with slotted angled holes that fits against some locating pips on the sub frame but I think I can see it in one of the pics.

Have never seen greasable track rod ends on a dolly so yours will be fine.

The top ball joints do have different length bolts - the shorter ones just go through the triangular locating plate.

Jonners

_________________
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 7:54 pm 
Offline
TDC Staffs Area Organiser
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
Yes it's there. I plated it and was wondering for ages what it was and then I saw it in the parts book and it all made sense again. When I removed it it was extremely dirty so I didn't recognise it all clean!

I've since managed to swap out those bolts, the previous ones were way to short. If anything the ones I put in are now too long but at least the nyloc can do its job now. I'll look out for some 2.75" ones next time I'm at a jumble. We didn;t have any at work and it's not worth ordering 2 bolts online. Summer show season starts soon and it's an easy swap.

_________________
Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2017 12:26 pm 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 06, 2011 6:11 pm
Posts: 383
Hi Mark,
Looking great.
I'm a bit concerned about the lack of thread showing through the stub axle nylocs. There is a narrower nyloc which should do the job. Try part number GHF275


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 6:23 pm 
Offline
TDC Staffs Area Organiser
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
Quote:
Hi Mark,
Looking great.
I'm a bit concerned about the lack of thread showing through the stub axle nylocs. There is a narrower nyloc which should do the job. Try part number GHF275
Yes I was wondering whether to look at a half nut as really you want a couple of threads through the end of the nut. Will check stocks at work, failing that they seem quite obtainable.

_________________
Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 8:36 pm 
Offline
TDC Staffs Area Organiser
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
Got carried away this evening and took the temporary subframe out with the assistance of the wife. It now resides in the garden awaiting dismantling and assessment, it's probably scrap but may yield some useful spares including some really knackered looking callipers.

Image

Anyway I now have a big hole under the car. New assembly coming along nicely. ARB is on now and I found some suitable stainless steel tube to make some spacers from for the link ends. I've also fitted brake discs and hubs.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Need to set the end float on the hubs and then I'm just waiting for my callipers to return from painting, I'll bolt em on and then work out how to install the new frame.

_________________
Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


Last edited by SprintMWU773V on Wed Jul 26, 2017 2:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 9:46 pm 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 10:42 am
Posts: 980
Mark

When I fitted my refurbed subframe I left off the calipers / brake disc and hub carriers - thats where the weight is, it was heavy enough without those parts fitted.

I place a lifting strap through the grill apertures and lifted the car up using my engine hoist, placed the frame on a wheel skate + wooden support jig and slid the assembly underneath the car, the dropped the car onto the frame mounts, then fitted the hub, disc and calipers.

Paul

_________________
Image


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 9:06 pm 
Offline
TDC Staffs Area Organiser
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
Refurbed callipers arrived today and I wasted no time in fitting them.

Image

Image

They've been painted in metallic gold and have stainless steel pistons fitted as well as new seals etc. Expensive but I think they look a million times nicer than zinc passivate finish. I have to bend up some pipes but that won't take long.

I was hoping to show me fitting some polybushes to a steering joint but the bolts are in so hard and the quality seems good that I'm going to leave it alone for now so here's the joint without the polybushes! Doesn't seem worth breaking it all down when actually it's OK as it is, better than some of the other repro ones available I would say.

Image

_________________
Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


Last edited by SprintMWU773V on Wed Jul 26, 2017 2:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 9:40 pm 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:42 pm
Posts: 3936
Location: Forest of Dean
I hope those are greenstuff pads in there. Lots on here would say the reverse but a) they never gave me any grief, b) the dust is much kinder to alloy wheels. and c) I think we can rule out this car getting hooned around a track.

_________________
1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 9:59 pm 
Offline
TDC Staffs Area Organiser
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
Quote:
I hope those are greenstuff pads in there. Lots on here would say the reverse but a) they never gave me any grief, b) the dust is much kinder to alloy wheels. and c) I think we can rule out this car getting hooned around a track.
Ah yes indeed they are. I've run them on the MX5s for years with no problems so was an obvious choice with me keeping standard brakes.

_________________
Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 357 posts ]  Go to page Previous 114 15 16 17 1824 Next

All times are UTC+01:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: AhrefsBot [Bot], Google and 57 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited