The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 4:03 pm 
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Location: Greenock, Scotland
Has there been any progress in the remanufacture or availability of front seat diaphragms??

David


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 4:27 pm 
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Location: Greenock, Scotland
Hi, I am looking for some advice about making my Sprint alloys airtight. If left for a week or so several of my alloys lose air almost completely. Externally they are in nice condition (see earlier photos ) and don not need refurbed.
After removing the tyres would if be sufficient to use elbow grease and a wire brush/emery paper??
I'm sure I saw somewhere on the forum someone talked about painting the inside with hammerite paint or similar?
Now that all the welding repairs have been completed I want to move my Sprint from its current workshop back to my lockup and I want the tyres to stay inflated so I can move the car around.

Thanks

David


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 7:25 pm 
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I painted the insides of 3 wheels with about 4 coats of hammerite spray paint and they have not lost any air since February.

Did not have time to do the fourth one, and that goes flat every three weeks.

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 7:29 pm 
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Hi David, with the tyres removed, a good wire brushing to remove flakes is the start. Hammerite works ok if left to cure properly but a quicker result would be some bead sealant tyre places use like this : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/19089298 ... 0&ff14=122

Use as a lube to fit the tyre too, it congeals around the leak points and dries, but is removable next time tyre is off.
HTH

Tony

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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 9:15 pm 
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Thanks guys. I spoke to a local tyre firm and they will remove and refit the tyres for a reasonable cost using the bead sealant and is confident it will make them airtight. I just have to do the wirebrushing myself.

David


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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 10:20 pm 
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Location: Greenock, Scotland
Glad to report that after much rubbing the 4 alloys are now sealed and holding air. Yesterday. I finally finished all the structural welding repairs and the car is now one complete component.
While under the car the other day I noticed the bottom of the o/s brake drum had evidence of a leak staining it. I replaced all the brake pipes and wheel cylinders but have not bled the brakes so was pretty sure it isn't brake fluid leaking out. Today I removed the drum for a closer look and it was obviously clean oil, which has come from when I topped up the differential.
My best guess is that obviously the outer oil seal has failed. Would this be the correct assumption? Never having removed the rear hub and half shaft before, how difficult is it to do? I've read through the Haynes manual and it seems straight forward. Will I need a hub puller or should it come out without too much trouble?

I have given notice to the landlord and I intend to move the sprint by the end of June from the workshop back to my own lockup in Greenock, where I will progress with stripping doors of trim,glass etc and prep the body for its respray.( next year at this rate!)

David


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 10:11 am 
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Prior to moving the sprint back to my lockup I got a local spray painter to come and have a look at the shell and give me a quote for a respray. I have heard really good things about this guys skill and he has been recommended by several people. I visited his premises and saw current work in progress and also finished cars and I have to admit to being impressed by the quality.
He would prefer to take the car back to bare metal and would be happy for me to do this at his premises to save him his time and for this he promises a concours finish.
For his services he has quoted in the region of £3000.

I was kind of budgeting more towards £2000, but what do you think of these prices??

On another note, does the club supply master cylinder seals for single line system? I overlooked changing these earlier so stripped the MS down yesterday.

Thanks

David


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 11:27 am 
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I've had a bare metal respray for mine which included media blasting, lots of filler and all the seams re sealing and it cost me about £3750..I say about as it cost an extra £500 to straighten the doors after Pro-Strip warped them all and bent one, and another £250 towards using a different paint as when we put the Triumph 19 on it looked to creamy so £4500 in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 2:47 pm 
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Thanks for your input Shaun. Perhaps it is not as high an estimate as I first thought. I was basing my expectations on my friends recent respray of his 3 litre Capri for which he paid £1500, but that included giving the painter a full capri interior in part exchange for the job. Its a nice enough finish but that garage is 50 miles from where I live, whereas the paint shop who quoted me that price is only ten miles.

Adding up the costs I have incurred over the last few years, the cost of workshop rental, parts and now the cost of the respray it all adds up to more than the car would be worth if I were to sell it. But its not all about that is it??
At the end of the day all the work will have been done by me, it will be my pride and joy and hopefully give me many years of enjoyment and frustration to come!!!
You cant put a price on that!

David


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 11:17 pm 
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Don't look at a classic as a money in = money worth. It will never add up, unless perhaps it's an escort pos.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 10:51 am 
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Location: Greenock, Scotland
Guys, can you mix Dot 5 brake fluid with Dot 4??

Thanks in advance

David


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 11:30 am 
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No.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. :boggle2:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 1:47 pm 
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Mart didnt say it loud enough....

NO!!!!!

They have different chems to do something to the seals....if you use one after the other the seals turn to goo....



Jonners

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 2:35 pm 
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But you can mix DOT 5.1 I believe.

DOT 5.1, like DOT 3 & DOT 4 is polyethylene glycol-based. Whereas DOT 5 is Silicone based. So, reading on Google, you will only change the boiling point of the fluid by mixing them?

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. :boggle2:

2007 Porsche Boxster S


Image

Grammar:
The difference between knowing your sh#t and knowing you're sh#t.

Schedule: Pronounced "Shedule" not "Scedule"!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 3:42 pm 
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Thankyou for the advice guys.

Cheers

David


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