The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Thanks.

Sorry was away last week if you PM'ed me....

Someone else said my inbox was blocked so try again....

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

Completely stripped the load sensing valve yesterday and replaced the seals. Today I rebuilt it, painted it and it is now ready to be refitted. What are your recommendations on the type of brake pipes I should be fitting? Copper? Kunifer? I have a roll of copper piping handy but I have never had much success making double flares so I was going to go down the line of purchasing pre-cut pipes, ready to bend to shape and fit them, despite it being the more expensive option. Still need to sort the master cylinder next.

Cheers guys

David

Kunifer is better than copper. Copper fatigues if exposed to vibration or movement.
Therefore, for the back axle pipes and also the front caliper pipes it should definitely be kunifer.


To make proper flared ends, my experience tells me that the DIY tools are simply rubbish.
A professional tool is over £100 but worth the expense. Against labour costs I am thinking you could save that on making
up and replacing the pipes on one car alone or if not, definitely make a saving on doing two cars.

Kunifer is a little more difficult to bend than copper but a suitable tool is not too dear at around £15.



If you wish David, you could cut the pipe into the required lengths and send these to me for flaring FOC.......




Ian.

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Ian thanks for the offer. One of the guys who keeps his BMW in the same unit where I have my sprint is a professional mechanic and has a good quality flaring tool in his box and he too has offered to flare the pipes if I choose that option. As for the kunifer pipes I have a tool for bending those pipes and have recently used it to form the pipes on my mates Capri.

David

Yesterday I ordered Kunifer brake pipes from a supplier in the Fife area of Scotland. I called him today to identify my set up as single line and also sent a few photos to confirm this to him. During the conversation he refers to the diagrams he uses and it identifies the pressure sensor which I believe is only found on the tandem system? So he is asking if my needs are identical to the set up on the 1850 dolomite? Looking at the diagram in the Haynes manual my set up is the same as the diagram but with the addition of the load sensing valve. I thought 1850's had a similar load sensing valve but it is not shown on the Haynes diagram.
He has said that he wont make the pipes until we figure out exactly what I require and if it needs altered he will gladly do it free of charge.
Any thoughts??

Cheers

David

Only the Sprint had the LSV.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450

Thanks Mart. I thought I saw LSV's for 1850's advertised on Rimmers site? Best thing I can do is remove the front to rear pipe and measure it from the front union along to the LSV. I thought this would be straight forward too!!

Thanks

david

Whilst greasing the steering rack I noticed I have one locating plate which i've fitted under the clamp below the pinion. I am positive there was only one bracket, but looking at the Haynes manual it clearly shows TWO plates, one at each U-clamp. In the manual it states under CH 11, section 16, para 13 that the "bearer plate" should not be fitted on the pinion side.
Have I fitted it on the wrong side( though I was pretty positive that's where it was originally). And would this cause the steering to feel slightly stiff? Everything turns but I just think it should feel lighter to turn (no wheels on).
What's your opinion guys?

Thanks

David

This came up a few weeks ago. The plate on the pinion side is already welded to the subframe. The loose plate goes on the near side.

_________________
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450

Just looked again at the rack and I see the plate you mention welded onto the subframe. Thanks for that Mart. I hadn't noticed it before. I will rectify that in the next few days. New kunifer pipes and wheel cylinders fitted. Still to refit new handbrake cables before refitting propshaft. Things are coming along.
I replaced my dodgy mig last week so I can now finish off the small chassis leg repair and the panels are lined up ready to weld in place too.
Due to a family I'll health and subsequent bereavement I have neglected the sprint in recent months, so I've a bit of catching up to do!
Cheers

David

You're not the only one!

_________________
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450

I refitted the bracket in its correct position and checked the torque settings on ball joints and other steering components but the steering still feels a bit stiff. By this I don't mean that it takes both hands to turn the wheel, just a feeling of slight resistance. Before connecting the steering rack to the track rod ends everything was light and smooth so I have no reason to think the rack is at fault. Could it just be that everything ( top and bottom ball joints) is brand new and just needs time to bed in?
I was also almost finished welding the chassis repair when I got distracted by the offer of a nice Saab 93 convertible for sale from the garage next door!!

David

Tightish steering can also be caused by the u/j in the intermediate shaft. Worth checking as if it does go tight in one
plane it soon finishes off the column lower bush.

Jonners

_________________
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

Wow, having fitted my new rack yesterday I omitted to fit this plate too! When I took it apart originally, the plate was under the pinion and not on the nearside. As I have fitted a jigsaw solid mounting kit, I discarded it as I thought the height differential had been catered for....think I'll do a bit of measuring tonight as my rack is stiff too!

Sorry to hijack this thread btw, the plastic bush sat in the bulkhead plate has its biggest diameter on the interior of the bulkhead rather than the engine side....is this correct?