The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Went for an MOT today... and it failed

The electrics decided to commit suicide in the last 30 minutes before the test, I lost the horn, then the indicators, then all the gauges as well. Then it blew the fuse so I replaced that but the fuse box is so corroded everything flickered. Then the indicator stalk fell out... Joys of classic cars eh? It also failed on a slightly perished brake hose so I'll be replacing both hoses and fixing these damn electrics when I next go home. I have two weeks before the retest which is good. I've got a new fusebox on order (reproduction of the original type) and I'm now on the look out for some brake hoses.

James

PM sent re the flexies.

You did better than I did with Brown's MoT back last August. A testament to all your hard work.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle

Shockingly my car's passed every MoT of it's life with one original rear flexi hose!

I am rather embarrised to admit that I still haven't taken the poor Dolly for a retest or found some new brake hoses for sensible money. My budget is very stretched after my job fell through and 2nd gear syncro has gone on my daily drive.

I have sorted out the electrics though with a new fusebox and some soldering. The earth strap for the horn had come out and it isn't possible to get it back in so I glued the stalk in and soldered the earth to it. Seems to do the trick.

I've also converted the lovely radio to work through a 3.5mm jack input as well as the original MW/LW. It's pretty unobtrusive with only two solid connections required on the circuit board and a small hole in the facia, which wasn't necessary but I think looks smart and is convenient. I'm considering doing these conversion to try and get some dosh in so I can get the poor girl back on the road, I know I can undercut the £150 ones seen on eBay by a looooong way. I'll get some photos up later.

James

James, let me check in the loft tomorrow but I may be able to sort out brake flexis for you.

I had a load of NOS ones that I just won't use because braided are so much better. I've wanted to throw them but I don't think I could bring myself to do it. I sold one set and felt enormously guilty about taking money for something I don't consider up to using on one of my cars. So there they sit annoying me.

As I say, I need to check I didn't get all determined and bin 'em.

_________________
1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.

Thank you very much tinweevil!



Modified radio

Bad news - they've gone. Good news - not in the bin. They went to whydidistartthis for much the same reason. This lot here. I asked him to keep any left over so fingers crossed and PM sent asking. Mean time I have found one more NOS here, 12 & 3/4" between the points marked in the link.

_________________
1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.

Not to worry tinweevil, I managed to get a pair the right length on eBay for sensible money at last and fitted them today. I just need to replace the upper axle link bushes as they were advisories. Is it worth dropping the axle out to do that?

James

Its not necessary or particularly desireable to remove the axle to to replace the upper arm bushes, just take 1 arm out at a time and the other will hold the axle (mostly) in place for you, making the job simples!

Steve

Oh and at the back end use supaflex bushes for better wearing characteristics and improved road manners!

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.

Thanks Steve, I'm glad about that! I got the bushes ages ago, they're not branded but I think they may be poly, they're pretty stiff anyway and will hopefully help cure the dodgy handling.

I'm also looking at adapting a Mini type Lucas 45 or 65 distributor to fit. I've got a spare Delco and loads of Mini dizzys so I stripped one down and fitted the Dolly drive. The shaft is a bit long so the gear would sit too far in the engine but I think I can cut off the mount from the Delco, get it ground down at the local machine shop to the right height to get the Mini dizzy at the right height above the engine and provide a way of locking the new type dizzy.

Does anyone have the spec of the standard Delco dizzy with regards to total mechanical advance and vacuum advance?

James

Just made a start at the dizzy conversion. The shafts are the same diameter but the body of the Delco is wider so I had to rethink. I cut base off the Delco above the mounting plate and cut the Lucas through the mount. I just used a hacksaw but with some blue and a file I've got the faces pretty good, hopefully I won't need to splash out on a trip to the machine shop. The Delco mount just needs a few thou taking off and it will all line up. I need to figure out who to fix the two parts together now, I've got some Aluweld stuff laying about that I've not really tried yet, hopefully that'll be up to it...

James

EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxtmt6QCVd8&feature=plcp

Why go to all that trouble when you can fit the Lucas 44D4 dizzy as used on the Sprint? The only "issue" with using these on non-Sprint slants is the advance curve. They are compatable with the 45D4 dizzy as used on the OHV engines, the points are easier to adjust and you have more options for electronic ignition. You've already taken a step in the right direction by ditching the Delco.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle

I'm going to the trouble because I can't really afford to buy a new dizzy and don't really see the point when I have both parts laying around in the garage.

The advance curve in the ACDelco is a joke with only 7.5-8.5' advance (1' tolerance!! ) so good performance across the range is never going to happen. I can't comment for the standard advance for the Sprint part but the 45s and 59s are pretty simple to adjust. A good start point is 10' centrifugal advance giving 20' at the crank so the engine can be set at 14' idle and 34' max. There shouldn't be any pinking at all at the top end and if the bottom end pinks at all it's very easy to increase the total advance and get rid of it. After 30 odd years the condition of the springs is playing a far greater roll in dictating the curve rather than factory specs so I'm not to worried, I've got plenty of springs to play with.

James