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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2016 7:45 pm 
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Please tell me you set the wheel bearing end float before fitting the caliper...

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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2016 7:56 pm 
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Please tell me you set the wheel bearing end float before fitting the caliper...

Jonners
Does it make a big difference?


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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2016 10:45 am 
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Yes it does....and your supposed to give the inner felt seals a good soaking too....and mark the position and do the end float without them IIRC.

On a std caliper you can do it with the pads out and I just do it by "feel", tightening the casetelated nuts until you just feel the taper rollers loading up
and the wheel has very slight resistance and then backing off one flat....but that's with "run in" bearings that need adjustment. With new ones
I tend to do it "properly".

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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2016 11:47 am 
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As most loaded bearings I give the fronts a bit pre load. Together with the silkolene grease I did replace I think about 150.000km ago and still ok. I know the 100 year old mechanics here all say a bit of play because this or that but from my experience they last longer this way and that particular car runs on 205/60/13 and did get lots of abuse.

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 8:44 pm 
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A few snaps from the weekend....Handbrake cables and adjusters all in now....just need to put the brake shoes in next.....

Image

Image

Thank you PaulB for the bits!

Doing the small but essential jobs now, like finally filling the diff with oil..., will put some sealant around the various fixings on the gearbox and overdrive next and then fill with oil.

Not far off a start up now so will be needing engine oil...remind me, what running in oil should I use....

XL30 or 20w50?......http://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kin ... -oils.html

Will also need to put brake fluid in and Clutch fluid....any recommendations please?


Last edited by shaunroche on Thu May 26, 2016 4:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 10:43 pm 
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Just put any cheap 20/50 in it to run in, it's only gonna be in there for 1000 miles max, longevity and viscosity maintainance is not really an issue!
For brake fluid, I recommend DOT 5.1 race fluid (NOT DOT 5, which is silicone and boils too easily)

Steve

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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 9:08 am 
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Just put any cheap 20/50 in it to run in, it's only gonna be in there for 1000 miles max, longevity and viscosity maintainance is not really an issue!
For brake fluid, I recommend DOT 5.1 race fluid (NOT DOT 5, which is silicone and boils too easily)

Steve
Nice one, cheers Steve!

Some on here mention sae 30, you think 20/50 will be ok then?


Last edited by shaunroche on Thu May 26, 2016 10:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 9:38 am 
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Looks fabulous..I do love painted floors on restos.

Quality work..keep the pics coming please. 8)


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 9:58 am 
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Looks fabulous..I do love painted floors on restos.

Quality work..keep the pics coming please. 8)
Thanks mate, planning on getting loads done this weekend so will get some pics up..... :)


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 9:59 am 
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Just put any cheap 20/50 in it to run in, it's only gonna be in there for 1000 miles max, longevity and viscosity maintainance is not really an issue!
For brake fluid, I recommend DOT 5.1 race fluid (NOT DOT 5, which is silicone and boils too easily)

Steve
Ps - not even looked at what sort of clutch fluid to use yet, any thoughts please Steve?


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 6:32 pm 
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For the clutch, you can use the DOT 5.1, though it's a bit overkill. Or ordinary DOT 4 will do it. I use the 5.1 in my clutch, purely so I only need 1 bottle on the shelf (or in the boot on race days)

Steve

Personally, I wouldn't use a straight 30 oil, even to run in. the engine still will get hot and that's when you need the 50 end of the rating.

I once put 5w30 in the Carledo by mistake when it should have 10w40, it didn't do any harm cos I noticed very quickly that the oil pressure dropped off alarmingly as soon as the engine got warm. Scary moment when I thought the engine was dying, followed by relief when I sussed what i'd done wrong!

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 6:58 pm 
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For the clutch, you can use the DOT 5.1, though it's a bit overkill. Or ordinary DOT 4 will do it. I use the 5.1 in my clutch, purely so I only need 1 bottle on the shelf (or in the boot on race days)

Steve

Personally, I wouldn't use a straight 30 oil, even to run in. the engine still will get hot and that's when you need the 50 end of the rating....

Steve
Nice one Steve, great advice as ever and really clear as to what to go for, really appreciate it cheers! :thumbsup:


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 9:42 pm 
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Just put any cheap 20/50 in it to run in, it's only gonna be in there for 1000 miles max, longevity and viscosity maintainance is not really an issue!
Steve, I'm curious, as you know I have a lot of respect for your views but why not use a specific running in oil? Millers can be bought for £30ish for 5L if you shop around.


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 9:50 pm 
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Put a cheap 20/50 to run for a few miles, just to check for leakages.

I lost 4.5l of Castrol over a silly mistake.

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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 10:03 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Just put any cheap 20/50 in it to run in, it's only gonna be in there for 1000 miles max, longevity and viscosity maintainance is not really an issue!
Steve, I'm curious, as you know I have a lot of respect for your views but why not use a specific running in oil? Millers can be bought for £30ish for 5L if you shop around.
This issue was a fews weeks ago on fb page also. My comment there and here will be why paying more for very cheap oil when you can buy it also cheap.

Jeroen

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