The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 7:31 pm 
I was hoping for some recommendations either way for the spigot bearing it has the needle roller type at the mo but theres no sign of damage or wear on the input shaft.

What are the pros and cons / reasons beind triumphs late shift from bronze bush to needle roller


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 11:24 pm 
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Thinking about this it may well go with the type of gearbox...

I havent done that many box or clutch swaps on the post 75 single rail boxes thinking about it...

All my own longer term cars have been early 3 railers...

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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 Post subject: Yes ...
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:31 pm 
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Location: Caithness, Scotland
Quote:
I would use the plain phosphor bronze type....
They cant really fail....only wear a tad.
If a needle roller one goes bad it can ruin the end of an input shaft.

Jonners
It doesn't mention this in the workshop manuals but a bronze spigot bush needs to be steeped in oil (overnight)
before being fitted.
These bushes can give bother, commonly they rotate within the crankshaft but can also break up. Steeping in oil
should hopefully prevent such failures.
I fit a new spigot bush when replacing the clutch.



Ian.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 11:03 pm 
I take it theres no difference in overall size between the bush and the needle roller types internal and external diameters the same? No late change and something silly like slightly different diameters in the input shaft?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:11 am 
I notice that there is a plate that goes on the flywheel which retains the spigot bush

On mine there is no plate is this because i have the needle roller type?

If so would this therefore demand a needle roller replacement??


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 Post subject: Okay.....
PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 1:15 pm 
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I have looked in the post 1976 parts book and, from this, I conclude that the retaining plate is used on all 1850s (and Sprints)
irrespective of the type of spigot bush (page 1E 02R).




Ian.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:38 pm 
Thanks for checking. It looks like the shape of the plate would make locating the input shaft a little easier than without it.

I bet that should be an interesting part to locate!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:46 pm 
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Just to answer your question about the spigot bearing, the early 1850 one is 150763 which is a phosphor bronze bush and is fitted up to WF70991.
UKC8154 is fitted to all 1850's from WF70991 and is a needle roller bearing.
Interesting that the Sprint one is also quoted as the 150763 phosphor bronze one for all models from the parts manual.
When I had my clutch done 2 years ago I had the original spigot bearing replaced with a new one of the same type. No problems !
Tony.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 7:33 am 
Quote:
Just to answer your question about the spigot bearing, the early 1850 one is 150763 which is a phosphor bronze bush and is fitted up to WF70991.
UKC8154 is fitted to all 1850's from WF70991 and is a needle roller bearing.
Interesting that the Sprint one is also quoted as the 150763 phosphor bronze one for all models from the parts manual.
When I had my clutch done 2 years ago I had the original spigot bearing replaced with a new one of the same type. No problems !
Tony.
So could you fit a phosphor bronze one in a later engine instead of the needle roller as general consensus appears to suggest the former to be better?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 8:49 am 
Just found this BL tech sheet for a TR7 in a google search which answers why i dont have the bush retaining plate when running a needle roller bearing.

It advises use of needle roller over bush and to discard the retaining plate after upgrade.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source ... j6iFZD_Rwg


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 10:50 pm 
Had a bit of a battle getting the old bearing out tried the hydraulic method among others but only managed to remove the inner race and rollers.

Took a lot of faffing and eventually a drimmel to get the outer race out.

Went with a like for like replacement in the end with a needle roller bearing mainly as its pressed in and I dont have to retaining plate for the bronze type.

Fitted the reinforcing plate that sandwiches the bulkhead for the throttle pedal from the club thank you Alun Nicholas! Was a bit fiddly to do on one pair of hands! Put a little dum dum around it to seal.

In due course should have a very smooth gearbox and od unit to go back in thanks to Jonners.

Thinking of sprucing up the interior before respray with head lining and new carpets mainly because the front and rear screen will be coming out anyway so seems like a good time to replace the headlining as its a bit tatty. Carpet also because the seats are out for the tranny tunnel removal for the afor mentioned gearbox. Can anyone recommend suppliers for these?

After having the camcover resprayed the oil cap kind of lets it down. Should it be chrome?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 11:38 pm 
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Quote:
After having the camcover resprayed the oil cap kind of lets it down. Should it be chrome?
No, just alloy.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 5:49 am 
Hi there, first time i have seen this thread - what a great restoration, coming together nicely, its really looking great :-)

Kind Regards

Russell.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 3:33 pm 
Quote:
Hi there, first time i have seen this thread - what a great restoration, coming together nicely, its really looking great :-)

Kind Regards

Russell.

Thanks very much for.your kind words of encouragement hopefully some more significant progress will become apparent around the new year


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 3:36 pm 
Quote:
Quote:
After having the camcover resprayed the oil cap kind of lets it down. Should it be chrome?
No, just alloy.
Oh thats good juat a little work with some fine wet and dry should bring it up nicely!


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