The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 1:10 pm 
If they're DCOE 45 152s it will have a flat spot off idle. Sprints need the 152G/Zetec Weber.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 1:13 pm 
Good question. Didn't think about that. How can I see?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 8:06 pm 
(Apologies for poor English here and there. I'm not familiar with all the English terms. Also, I found a way to avoid enormous photos of the progress I make every time, so that should be better from now on too)

Well, tonight it all went as planned. I removed the hood and started to dismantle the engine. All the parts looked like they could use some love, so that's what I'll be doing after the engine basics are right. Tomorrow I will take the exhaust apart and make sure the gearbox is free to move, since we will take the engine out from above with a winch (?) upcoming Thursday. Unless someone has a better way to take out the engine?
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File comment: I'm sharing the garage with my dad, who is working on his own project, restoration of a 1947 Jawa motorcycle
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File comment: This is the result after the first labor. Nothing special to see yet, just took of all the stuff to free up enough space.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:16 pm 
Look for the TIPO code on top of the carbs.

Easiest engine removal tactic is engine and box out the top together.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 10:53 pm 
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Well the pictures are big enough to read 45dcoe13. The better Italien ones.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 10:57 pm 
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Oh, and the other say's 40dcoe32

I hope it's only the cover. Before you start i would check if they are the same size and if the progression holes are the same.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 11:09 pm 
Couldn't see on my phone. Definitely make sure they match or it'll be one lumpy slant!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 10:47 pm 
Just had an hour or so tonight, so I made some preps for Thursday, that's when the engine and gearbox have to come out. Spent quite some to unbolt the exhaust on the engine side, difficult position of the bolts. No pics for now. Will cross-check the Webers soon if they are similar. If not, I'll return them.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 5:14 pm 
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Pretty tough getting the exhaust manifold flaneg bolts out.
It helps if you take off the heater and can get hold of an obstruction ( U shaped) 9/16 AF
ring spanner.

If you are taking the engine and gearbox out together dont bother - just separate the exhaust from the
bottom of the downpipe.

Jonners

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 5:38 pm 
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Jonner does mean the brake servo and brake master ofcourse. He will never get used to the Dutchies i think.

Jeroen LHD

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 5:55 pm 
Thought of that before Jonners, but was not sure if unbolting the the bore pipe was the right way to go.

Thankfully both Webers are 45. Still not sure if these are the appropriate ones. Dolly-nut, you were saying something about a flat spot? Can you explain yourself?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:42 pm 
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These have different progression holes. That is solvable but yours are better. The progressionholes must be the same of both. You have to unscrew the big slotted brass screw and there are three tiny holes drilled. These must be all four the same.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:45 pm 
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these:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 9:29 pm 
Yes them.
Have a read of this it will explain the problem everyone has with flat spots when using the incorrect Webers for road use: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/carbure ... ation.html Bare in mind this only applies to some models (always the 152), yours might be okay. Basically you want the first progression hole to be immediately uncovered with the slightest butterfly movement or there will be a lean-spot/severe misfire off idle.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 10:45 am 
Thanks! Your explanation and some translation of Jeroen helped me understand the issue. I will look into this further once the engine is out, which is what I planned for tonight.


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