The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 9:46 am 
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I tend to agree its best to take the engine out. Even if you drop the sump access to the rear big end bolts in situ is
a bit fraught.

Oil drips in your face too....and its cold. Very unpleasant time ahead if you go that way. Can you get the crane in the garage and the car on the driveway with its nose half in?


Once its out a ring change will be good experience for you.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 9:06 pm 
I'm guessing if the garage is up a slope then no engine hoist in the world will take the thing out.
I have exactly the same situation, any work which would render the car undriveable means it can't go in the garage. And then it's uninsured during the hours of darkness!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:52 pm
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Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
You should be able to lift the block out without an engine crane leaving the gearbox in situ. Dropping the sump (and the engine oil) will lighten the load a bit.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:56 pm 
Update:

So I kinda went through quite a low eb and thought that I would in no way be able to finish the project that I had set for myself because I couldnt get the engine out, HOWEVER work has re-commenced! So far, the sump, oil pickup, pistons are all off. I need to deglaze now so I was wondering - what lubrication do people use on the honing stones? WD40? 10/40? 3 in 1?

Also, I remember people mentioning the importance of a 'clean down' after honing... what do you use to clean the bores and crank if needed?

I'll upload pics when I find my cable!

Al


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 5:45 pm 
Any takers?

Further query - what oil would be classed as 'good oil' for my 1850 once it's been run in? i'm on http://www.classic-oils.net/ but there is so much to choose from! - Anyone's input?

Pics below

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

Al


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 7:31 pm 
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Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Any decent brand of oil will do. One brand I recommend is Miller's. You can use cheap oil if you're going to change it after a few hundred miles to flush it out.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 10:28 pm 
Millers 20/60.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 10:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:13 am
Posts: 3173
Location: The continent
Honing must be done with very thin oil like wd40. I use thin rust penetrating oil. Cleaning you can do with spraycans of brakecleaner. It cleans ok and you have some pressure to spray with.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:00 pm 
Hi there, how are you and your 1850 coming along? Well i hope?

Kind Regards

Russell.


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