Today I finished installing the cam after rechecking the valve clearances. I then needed to set the inlet valves on cylinder no. 1 to the fully opened position...
I bolted a strip of metal to the head so that I had a firm base for the magnetic arm of the dial gauge to sit. The dial gauge is used to set the valve accurately fully open.
I then scored the cam on the front flange...
...and on the rear of the cam. I do this so that I can tell if the cam has moved once I have removed the dial gauge.
Then I set no.1 piston accurately to TDC...
I forgot to take a photo showing the temporary pointer I used to set no.1 piston. This is showing no.1 piston at 108 degs. ATDC. Different cams have different initial settings. The cam in my track Sprint, for instance, is set at 106 degs. ATDC. This information should come with the cam when purchased.
A Vernier cam sprocket is fitted to be able to accurately do the valve timing. The section of timing chain to the right (between the crank and cam shaft) must be taught. All the slack being taken up by the curved guide, with the (semi) hydraulic tensioner taking up the slack as wear occurs.
Now the valve timing is done I can crack on with putting the rest of the engine together.
Mary has been busy cleaning up all the trim pieces and she made a cracking job of painting the wheel segments.
One thing I should mention when removing the timing chain cover. Always put a rag or something in the sump hole or you will drop something in the sump. I always do, except when I started this job I removed the timing tensioner before doing so. Guess what? I dropped the tensioner plate in the sump. After a few choice words
I did manage to retrieve it quite easily with the aid of my telescopic magnet thingy.
_________________
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years.
... Still Sprintless.
Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.
1997 TVR Chimaera 450
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