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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 8:18 pm 
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OK, I'll try to answer all the questions (good job I have dual monitors :lol: ).
Quote:
That stripper is pretty good, how long do you leave it on for and removal is done how? Never used stripper before hence the dumb questions.
The paint stripper we use is pretty strong stuff, stronger than your DIY store Nitromors stuff, that barely does anything. We leave it covered for 20-30 minutes. We use a normal paint scraper for removal...to start with.
Quote:
What's the thinking behind taking what looked like sound paint off?
I believe you've asked this before Jon. See below.
Quote:
I think Mart has taken most of the resto's to bare metal prior to going to the body shop. It will help keep costs down and I suppose that paint quality/type may be unknown and bare metal might prevent a reaction. Possibly.
Ken is correct. But the main reason I do it is because you just don't know what's under the paint. You can see a few examples in my previous resto threads. Take the last resto, VHK, the rear panel looked fine but once I started to remove the paint it became obvious there was a lot of filler underneath and indeed it needed a new rear panel. Also look at the PUS resto. The paintwork on the 1500 I used for the reshell looked really good. But when I got to the left rear passenger door, a half inch thick slab of filler was hiding a nasty dent that could easily (and was by my sprayer) have been pushed out.
Quote:
That paint stripper looks to be most effective (the chemical one, not the human one)...!!!

The plastic bad technique seems to work a treat... Does this allow the chemicals to 'sweat' the paint off a little better than it would if exposed to the normal atmosphere?!
The plastic bag thing is a tip I got from my sprayer. You are correct in what you said.

Now I need to insert a caveat here regarding the paint stripper. If you put it on paint which just has a primer under it, it works pretty well and peels off. But, if you have filler of any type under the paint it's still a bit of a pig to remove, ask Mary. You may have to do it two of three times. On the pics below the front door has just had the plastic removed and as you can see, not a lot of the paint has peeled off. The pic of the rear door is the best we could do after one coat of stripper. We applied another coat and got a bit more off but then I moved in with the knotted wire brush to remove the rest.

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The main reason I use paint stripper is because it makes a lot less mess, not necessarily because it is quicker. When I stripped JYD I used sanding discs and the dust got everywhere, about an inch deep in places. :lol:

Pics of the bad bits so far...

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 8:30 pm 
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Looks like you got off lightly. The wisdom of stripping the paint off has been clearly demonstrated.

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Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 9:41 pm 
Excellent progress there Mart. Shell looks very solid, surprising given the last few years have not been its best, although having said that it has avoided the road muck. A couple of unusual rust spots but all very fixable.

Have you tried scoring the surface of the paint, with say a 60 grit oxide paper, just quickly to break the surface a bit and allow the stripper to get a bit more of a hold before bagging it up


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 2:41 pm 
It's looking good there Mart. Not a huge amount of rectification to do by any stretch of the imagination. I reckon your body shop guy will be twiddling his thumbs lol.

One thing I wanted to comment on was the knotted wire grinder wheel. I tended to use these almost exclusively, however, I now also use a poly disk which is quicker still and you don't get stabbed by small wire strands (I have one in my knee apparently, according to the recent x ray). Frost do them and they are rather effective. Just a thought.

Ken


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:28 pm 
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Yes, I tried scoring the paint first Malc.

Fed up with body work (and the fact I've blown up my angle grinder) I decided to strip the subframe down to free up some space in the garage. It's looking a bit green where it's been stored outside, I expect. Looking at the rear mounting positions it looks like I need to fill those holes a bit.

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It didn't take long to strip it and a bonus was that I managed to undo all the ball joint nuts without them spinning. If you are doing this, loosen all the bolts you can before taking any parts off. Sometimes it helps if the part you are trying to undo is anchored at the other end.

The steering rack joints are very loose so probably a candidate for Alun to get refurbed. Luckily Colin has provided me with what looks to be a refurbed one. :D

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I then felt like doing a bit of bench work and started stripping the front brakes. The pads were well & truly seized to the discs and needed a bit of persuading with a hammer & chisel.

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Although the discs have quite heavy surface rust, there doesn't seem to be any wear on them so maybe they are new?

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I'm trying to remove the pistons from the calipers but they are stuck solid. I've tried compressed air but that does nothing. I usually manage to tap them out with a screwdriver and small hammer but they seem to be well and truly stuck. Any suggestions?

Ken, I've just ordered one of them there poly discs.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:34 pm 
Good to see everything coming apart.

My R Reg Dolomite 1300 was notorious for shearing it's fixings, just a little pressure on them you would find yourself with a sheared off bolt head inside your ring spanner.

It was a most frustrating car to do even the most simplest of jobs on, you always had to ensure you had a replacement nut/bolt to hand before starting a job.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 6:04 pm 
Mart, try a grease gun to shift the pistons, or bolt a clutch master to the bulkhead and connect to the Caliper, get some hydraulic force behind them. Dump them in a tub of diesel for a couple of weeks beforehand.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 6:42 pm 
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...or with refurbed calipers now down to £37 each, just swap them for ones that have been done ;-)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 7:34 pm 
^^ wise words mate. Save faffing around.

Excellent, I shall look forward to your opinion.

Ken


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 5:29 pm 
Mix water / caustic soda. This is the best paint/rust remover you get. Also work as perfect rubber renewer.
Drop your calipers ( and other part you like to strip down to bare metal) in the water / caustic soda mixture. Leave i over night.
This is what i use in my ultrasonic washer, just for speeding up the process.
Heat will also speed up the process, 60 degree celsius.

IT IS AMAZING :D

For removing paint on the car, mix water/caustic soda/wallpaper paste.

NEVER put aluminium in this solution, it will eat it.... :evil: :evil:


Last edited by Norwegian sprint on Mon Jan 05, 2015 6:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 6:17 pm 
:) What ratio of water to caustic?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 6:38 pm 
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:) What ratio of water to caustic?
50/50 is what i use.

Before / after pic.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 7:13 pm 
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50/50 is a hell of a lot of caustic. Did this unsieze the pistons? I assume it didn't damage the caliper bores?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 8:13 pm 
Quote:
50/50 is a hell of a lot of caustic. Did this unsieze the pistons? I assume it didn't damage the caliper bores?
Sorry.....50/50 is wrong, that is the mix of my aluminium cleaning bath.
I did use 1 can/bottle of caustic in 10 liter of water.
The solution last almost forever, used mine for 2-3 year now. Only refill water.

The caustic do NOT damage steel. Only remove rust/paint. Only strip back to bare steel.
On my calipers, the piston was stuck. After caustic bath, the piston just glide out using hand power.
Also rubber go back to "fresh as new" softness.
It is really is amazing......i use it as "washing water". Drop dirty bolts and stuff in the bath for 5 minutes, take it out as new.
.......well........it also remove plating.....so back to bare metal. :wink:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 8:48 pm 
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Great, I'll give it a go tomorrow as I'm out of caustic soda.

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Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


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