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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 8:35 pm 
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Took a few days off from the garage, but now I'm back.. And this day has been looming (tee-hee) for some time.

The standard MX loom (with tape mostly removed, which took an entire afternoon). This loom needs stripping so it's just engine/ECU.
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That's the entire ABS loom (excluding plugs to sensors). Tiny!
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No idea what that is, but it really deserved a photo.
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Cut that one by accident. Hopefully that'll remind me to repair it.
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Tea break, and one of those moments you doubt your own sanity.
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The current state of the loom (I know, it looks bigger..)
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All the stuff I've removed so far
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1978 Triumph Dolomite MX-5 Build (Project) viewtopic.php?f=19&t=29239
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:33 am 
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Excuse the slow progress, loom-trimming is rather soul sucking so I've been struggling a bit motivation-wise..

The current state of the loom - not far off now. Still need to retrieve the rear loom from the car to double check wiring for fuel pump etc.
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The leftovers pile is really growing. Hopefully not too much..
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1978 Triumph Dolomite MX-5 Build (Project) viewtopic.php?f=19&t=29239
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 3:56 pm 
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Excuse the massive delay.... Test loom is complete, need the engine mounting before I can do much else with it.

That is the length of the UNFUSED positive that runs the length of an MX-5 (externally!..)
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The loom, there is a load of temporary crimps/fuse holders until I work out what I can fit where..
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Concerning pile of bits that are not part of the loom any more..
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Left the tank in the rain for a week... Oops.
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Wire wool, Kurust and enamel paint to the rescue. Lets hope it still holds petrol. Time will tell. If it leaks I'll replace it, given it's easy to get to I'm not going to worry too much for now.
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Liberated the clutch master from the MX5, with a 1 inch spacer it should fit (will clear the studs on the dolomite, and be in the right place for suitable pedal travel. Can't actually fit that until the engine is in place as it could be a little close.
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The good news though, the front-bowl sump should be with me this week :D

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1978 Triumph Dolomite MX-5 Build (Project) viewtopic.php?f=19&t=29239
1959 Morris Oxford IV Traveller in Red/Cream (Daily)


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 7:20 pm 
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Sump arrived. In my usual style I've turned a solution into a dozen more problems... Sometimes I wonder if by the time I finish this we'll all have self driving cars and it'll never be allowed on the road.

Old sump (and oil pickup - problem number 1) removed.

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New sump ready to go on (wont clean it up yet as it's just a test fit)

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Hurrah it fits!

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As long as you remove the baffle as this stud for the oil pickup hits the sump (problem 2)

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The dipstick (problem 3). In the Mazda 323 it mounts through the block. In the MX5 it's through the sump. Even if it did have a hole it'd be at the wrong end. I'm going to have to make a tube through the extra (turbo drain) pipe on the sump and have a flexible dipstick.

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Fits nicely

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Can nudge forwards an inch or so, but with the crane how it is (convenient pothole near wheel)

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Loads of room for a mount this side

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This side there's no room - alternator ruining my day. (problem 4)

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Gearbox should be about right though

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Except the gear shifter is under the handbrake. Best case (i.e. shortened as described earlier) it'd land it at that black bung - right in the middle of a bit of box section. (problem 5)

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Depending on how far forwards that comes I may remove a square from the bulkhead and drop a box in there to give the cam angle sensor some room.

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Inch thick mounting plate may be troublesome. I'll leave the clutch stuff till I've finished mounting. (problem 6)

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I could do with vanishing that mount from the subframe without upsetting MoT man. (problem 7)

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Sump is also missing the lug for this bolt hole :( (sigh.. problem 8 )

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And this one doesn't line up. That pipe is 'extra'. Probably find some way of doing dipstick here. (and one more for luck... problem 9)

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Right. Time to go and have a little sob in the corner.. Then subframe out this weekend I reckon. Mounts are not going to happen with it in the engine bay.

Your's demotivatetedly

Steve

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1978 Triumph Dolomite MX-5 Build (Project) viewtopic.php?f=19&t=29239
1959 Morris Oxford IV Traveller in Red/Cream (Daily)


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 7:52 pm 
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Some challenges there steve. What was the sump from in the end? Are they easily available?

Tony

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:05 pm 
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Mazda 323 turbo. I bought one of the two sumps that I could find on the internet. So pretty rare..

Steve

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:35 pm 
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Chopping the mount off won't upset the MOT man, to get the Carlton engine in, I chopped off both original mounts and relocated them, removed part of both front and rear crossmembers and built new ones then relocated the antiroll bar beneath the tie bars. It all works perfectly, has retained its original strength, if not bettered it.

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In this pic, you can see where i've hacked off and plated over the original mount, where the new one is and part of the surgery on the front crossmember. So long as you use adequate materials and weld it nicely (not pidgeon poo) no tester will argue with you.

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:40 pm 
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There is some part of the MoT testers manual which says about subframe having been affected by heat (for example welding). Apparently some testers get in a strop about this and read it as "welding = fail". However I may not have a lot of choice..

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1978 Triumph Dolomite MX-5 Build (Project) viewtopic.php?f=19&t=29239
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:58 pm 
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Quote:
There is some part of the MoT testers manual which says about subframe having been affected by heat (for example welding). Apparently some testers get in a strop about this and read it as "welding = fail".
I reckon this is a hangover from the bad old days before MIG welders were in common use. Back then welded up Mini subframes were failed automatically for this, you simply weren't allowed to weld repair one.
But i've not had it happen recently (like the last 15 years or so) nor heard of it happening either. My car has recently been MOT'd for the 5th time since the build and none of the 3 testers who've done it has even passed comment on the work. There might be a getout where the work is done to modify the frame rather than repair corrosion. I'll have to read up on it!
But basically, if you meet such a jobsworth, its time to find another testing station!

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 5:16 pm 
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Wow not been on here for a while what with work commitments and trying to get my transit mot ready(loads of welding)ive not seen this post, this is the kinda post I need to see to spur me into action with my Mazda engine transplant into the Toledo, ive still got a couple of sections to weld mainly the front sub mounts then I can crack on with it, have you got any further with it? keep us informed its helping loads cheers Eddie


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 7:31 pm 
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Still in progress, making mock up / temporary engine mounts currently. Had a bit of a hold-up with various other cars I've had to fix. Going to try and get back on it soon :)

One word of warning - it aint easy..

Steve

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 11:46 am 
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hi my names phil ive just joined this site. ive been putting a 1.6 mx5 engine and gearbox in my dolomite and im in the final stages of completing it, so if you want to ask any questions how how i did stuff feel free to ask. i used a steel sump so i was able to alter the shape to go over steering rack and also took an inch off the front to move the engine away from the bulk head. in doing that the gearstick has ended up at the end of the hand brake lever so i dont need to move it too far. i will try and upload pics of the car through various stages on completion.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 6:29 pm 
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Quote:
hi my names phil ive just joined this site. ive been putting a 1.6 mx5 engine and gearbox in my dolomite and im in the final stages of completing it, so if you want to ask any questions how how i did stuff feel free to ask. i used a steel sump so i was able to alter the shape to go over steering rack and also took an inch off the front to move the engine away from the bulk head. in doing that the gearstick has ended up at the end of the hand brake lever so i dont need to move it too far. i will try and upload pics of the car through various stages on completion.
If you haven't all ready, start a new thread m8 and enlighten us :D as I'm on with a 1.6 mx5 conversion as well


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 1:11 pm 
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edit: These pictures need rotating.... Just tilt your head in the mean time!

Sorry it's been a long delay. Felt fairly de-motivated as of late. This Sunday will be a whole year since I removed the engine, so I decided to crack on with it. I've made template engine mounts (very rough, made from thin metal and odd random bolts etc) to prove the engine fits. I can then hack these around a bit to get the engine in the right place, and then use these as templates for the real things. With that in mind, ignore the thin rusty metal and bad welding ;)

Engine mount (engine part, mounts to another bit on subframe)
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What it looks like off the car (stop laughing!)
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Might be as ugly as a pig, but they do work
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Some tools disliked my metalworking skills
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Top down view of clutch, bit wonky but it'll do to prove it fits
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Nice clearance at the front!..
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Small break, hacked down 6 feet of brambles to make a path.
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New tool box
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Emptied fuel out of the MX the easy (super safe..) way
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'Gearbox mount'. Gearbox was a right pig to get in.
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That took some wiggling! Had to drop the subframe at the back in the end
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Got it bolted to the engine and used a jack at the back, finally the wood and zipties could relax a bit
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Shifter sits below the handbrake handle. I can move it forward 10cm with a minor hack, but that puts it in that re-enforcer. Not sure I'm a fan of that idea.
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I'm going to hack away at some floor tonight and see if the gearbox tail will go high enough without losing that re-enforcer. If I can get it level then I'll have to have linkage inside the car under a new centre console or something. Not the look I was after, but originality was never going to happen, lets be honest!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 5:19 pm 
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Hi at least your making progress mines on the back burner at the moment, have you mated your mounts to the original mounting point on the subframe or another point, looking at mine the alternator looks to be in the way on that side, keep calm and keep at it lol


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