The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:19 pm 
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Many thanks Jonners,

I will pm when the car is back, as I've spent over an hour reading the SU official instructions, only to realise they're written to put you off, and that's only covering one carb. (glad I never got interested in a E Type), experience is better than the book :D


Thanks again

Mahesh

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 8:59 pm 
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No real reason for posting, other than for reference.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 6:23 am 
Mahesh - I'd be interested to hear how you get on with the carbs and what you decide. I'm currently debating whether to take them to Burlen (not far from me) or buy kits and have a go myself. Trouble is although I am keen, I lack facilities, eg for blasting to get that "as new" finish! On the other hand, the best way to learn is to have a go myself. Keen to hear what you do!

Simon


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:38 am 
I sent my 1850 carbs and manifold to Andrew Turner, came back fully refurb'd and everything blasted, about £300.
But - if you use your car as a daily it won't be long before they lose that pristine look, unless you spend every weekend polishing under the bonnet!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:14 am 
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I did ring Burlen, they quoted £140 each + vat, but 6 weeks at the moment to be refurbished. Dying to get the car back on the road.

Then I considered Jonners offer and thought the same, why be cleaning them every week, when a tune up and clean would suffice.

I am currently trying to polish my wheels as per mad marts post, sanding them down is harder than it looks.

But I bought a polishing kit and have a set of old hs6 carbs No. AUD545F which is I believe to be from an earlier sprint.
If I can polish them up well, I may put in a rebuild kit from Burlen, swap them with the ones in the car and repeat the process.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 7:32 pm 
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You guys would be amazed at what can be achieved even with your own dish washer.

SU's come to bits really well and even WD40 and a toothbrush does a good job...

Bilt Hamber also do a nice de-greaser and I've had cruddy looking ally hydraulic cyliders come up pretty
well after a soak in their DeOx rust removing solution, which frees up stuck steel pistions sometimes.

SU's do look nice polished but chrome dashpot covers also do a job....

Me I just leave them as SU intended....dull but clean.

Jonners

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:53 pm 
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I agree with you Jon and Bill,

A good cleanup (diy) replace the bits that need be, and keep the car running.

I intend to run the car every other day, so no point spending on polishing other than what I do myself.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:21 pm 
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Completely agree with both of you, Mahesh and Jonners, just a clean and scrub up, I would get a full refurb kit from Burlen especially as you'll be using it every other day. It has taken me ages to get to the point where I'm at with mine and that includes getting Burlen to do the bushes, the beading process and the plating of all of the choke parts to restore them to original spec.

I may add that one of the benefits of glass beading the castings is that it closes the pores on the metal which makes them easier to keep clean, but I have an irrational hatred of polished dashpots. :)

If you can get some, CarPlan do some brake and clutch cleaner which is great, failing that Jizer is really good. I wouldn't put the castings/bodies in the dishwasher though, they will oxidize! Just use some good degreaser and a toothbrush. Rinse everything in really hot water, it evaporates fast so you dont have to use an air line to dry parts and lay everything out on a table on clean kitchen towel.

One important thing to remember is not to mix up the dashpots and pistons as they are matched to each other. If you want to do a drop test use some foam ear plugs to block off the holes and hold the dashpot upside down on a tissue, you'll probably be fine though.

Can you do me a favour, can you take a photo of the inner choke linkages with the springs before you take them apart, I can't find my reference photos.

Actually when are you looking to do them? You're in London, I'm in Fleet, if you clean up the bodies I'll give them a bead blast in the cabinet for you.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 12:59 pm 
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James, I have the very thing you need. I've got a set of Sprint carbs still bolted to the manifold with the airbox. They were bought on ebay by Alun and the seller was in Ilkley so I offered to pick them up. This is the only photo I've got of it. Let me know if you want any more photos taking.
Image

Sorry for hijacking this thread but at least it is Sprint related.

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Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 2:05 pm 
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You never need to worry about hijacking one of my threads, welcome any time.

I'm glad you did because I ended up with the AUD tagged set without the airbox and another set from ebay which has no tags, mind you
this was back in 2005.

I'm planning on using the untagged set to practise some cleaning and learning, and the AUD to swap into my car temporarily till I degrease and
clean the cars original setup.

I would say Toledo man you should keep the colour scheme on your car, it screams out, BEEN THERE, DONE THAT, and I'm ready for more,
and looking at your restoration posts, I'd say both you and the car have some serious history and perserverance.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 2:20 pm 
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Thats a really useful picture, thanks Dave.

Mahesh, if you really want them you can still get the tags from Burlen.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 12:14 pm 
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Hi James,

The bead blast sounds interesting, from what I've read, (I'm doing the alloys rims at the moment)
as you said, if you glass bead blast them, it yes gets them cleaned up and ready, but more interesting is that it
seals the pores and prevents further (or any) corrosion and helps make it easy to keep them clean.

Has anyone done this ?, does the process apply to the other metals ?
and would it aid in reducing future rust?, assuming the items fit into the chamber.

Thanks for the nudge on the tags, its smacks of being vain on my car, I know, your car it would say
completed properly , but I have placed an order for a pair, will post a pic once they are on the car.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 2:50 pm 
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Mahesh, have a look at my restoration thread, I think at about page 12. You'll see what I've done with mine.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=27969

EDIT: Also have a look at my article on DIY Media blasting, should give you an idea on what can be done.

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=28437

Shameless plugs over!! :)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 3:09 pm 
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Thanks, now I have an easy reference point :D

The bead blasting cabinet you have looks like the one I've been eyeing, they don't change much. (not yet, job for next year)

Also looking at your thread, you seem to have come to the same conclusion on the tyres, Goodyear efficient grip, or did you
go for another make. I alway prefer the Michellins, but they didn't stack up in the 175/70/13 size, and the cheaper H rated
will always leave a nagging in the back of the head.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 3:46 pm 
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Haha no worries!!

To be honest I haven't decided on tyres yet as by the time I actually need some there'll probably be a new better version out, and you never know Dunlop might actually make some SP Sports in the correct size!!

Would have thought you'd be ok with a H rating, I doubt you'll be doing over 130mph for prolonged periods!! :)


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