The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 9:53 pm

All times are UTC




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 83 posts ]  Go to page Previous 1 2 3 4 5 6 Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:40 pm 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:52 pm
Posts: 7566
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
You need to check the condition of the points and the points gap. If you have to fit new parts keep the old ones just in case the new ones are faulty. There are some poor quality ignition parts out there. It is worth paying a bit extra for decent quality parts. These engines are really easy to get running without too much trouble.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:55 pm 
Thanks Toledoman. Have checked the gap and points. All look ok.

After the first round of testing and a set of helping hand. I've put the lead from the coil to the body. And still no spark so next thing new coil? Does that sound about right?


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:17 pm 
Offline
TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7014
Location: Highley, Shropshire
With cap off, turn engine till points are open, switch on ignition and use circuit test light to check for feed at 1) coil +ve, 2) coil -ve and 3) non earth side of points.
No feed at 1), check ignition switch and wiring to coil
No feed at 2) but feed at 1) coil faulty, points not open correctly
No feed at 3) but feed at 2) bad lead from coil to dizzy, points not wired correctly, duff condenser.
Feed at 3) but no spark? Keep test light on 3) and turn engine till points are closed, light should go out, if it doesn't points are duff and probably condenser as well. Also check earth wire from dizzy base plate to dizzy body.
If in doubt (and they look pretty crusty!) put in new points and condenser they are not expensive.

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:29 am 
Thanks for the tips Steve. Going to run through those first thing and see what I can get from it. Think I need to go pick up a new meter too, mine I think is shot. Could do with a more accurate one anyway. I'll see about picking up a circuit test light too don't own one but could be useful.

Fingers crossed I'll have the engine going by Monday. The saga continues.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 3:15 pm 
Well after a morning of testing. Pretty sure that I can confirm that the coil is past its best that is for sure. Gone through the steps that Steve had said. And used them in conjunction with YouTube.

Can anyone give me a recommendation on which coil to buy? The Haynes manual that I have says to use a Lucus 16c6 which is fine. But the one that I've just pulled is a 15c6, I've no idea what the difference is between the two. I'm going to order new points and condenser at the same time to save on postage. Is there anything else that would be worth ordering if it's more that the coil and points?

I've also been trying to find the ballast resister but not 100% sure what I'm looking for. I have a small cylindrical piece that was coming of the coil not sure if that was it?

On the plus side I've got the Bonnet off which gives me a lot more space to work on things.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 6:36 pm 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:52 pm
Posts: 7566
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
I would add the dizzy cap, rotor arm, HT leads and a set of spark plugs and that is the ignition side sorted.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:29 pm 
Quote:
...
Can anyone give me a recommendation on which coil to buy?....
Look online for Accuspark, cheapest prices are direct from their website but lots of others sell them.
If your system is ballasted, you need the blue coil, 6 volts.
If your system is non ballasted you need the red coil, 12 Volts.
A '76 car should have the ballast built into the wiring, there is no separate resistor.
NOTE this is for 1850 and Sprint, I'm assuming a Toledo will be the same?

The round thingy is probably some sort of aftermarket suppressor or resistor, this would have been in the HT side? Whereas the ballast is on the low voltage side. :)


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:38 pm 
Thanks Guys. Well that is my shopping list sorted. With any luck should get them all by the end of the week.

Guessing this is fairly normal for a car that has been sitting for some time?


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:40 pm 
Quote:
Quote:
...
Can anyone give me a recommendation on which coil to buy?....
Look online for Accuspark, cheapest prices are direct from their website but lots of others sell them.
If your system is ballasted, you need the blue coil, 6 volts.
If your system is non ballasted you need the red coil, 12 Volts.
A '76 car should have the ballast built into the wiring, there is no separate resistor.
NOTE this is for 1850 and Sprint, I'm assuming a Toledo will be the same?

The round thingy is probably some sort of aftermarket suppressor or resistor, this would have been in the HT side? Whereas the ballast is on the low voltage side. :)
Guess that it could be. Just had another look at the Haynes manual and your correct the ballast is in the wiring. Spent all morning looking for a resister to measure. Haha


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:04 pm 
So on the plus side parts arrived. Even tho they sent the wrong coil so I'll have to send that back now.

Fitted new dizzy cap, points and condenser +1 seem to be fitted ok

New symptom tho. I now have a red ignition light on when the ignition is on. Wondering if the battery could be low on charge? Can't seem to find anything to explain what it is.

Also a massive noob question. How can I turn the ignition whilst I'm looking at the engine?


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:37 pm 
That and to add insult to injury one of the pins has just fallen off of the solenoid that leads to the coil. Guessing that's not going to help.


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 9:27 pm 
So we are still going on the ignition front. Fitted new coil, dizzy cap, rotor arm, points, condenser and even a new solenoid.

Still not even sure if i've managed to test the system correctly. But with a circuit tester I get from ground to coil (light), ground to points closed (light) and ground to points open (no light). Not sure what else I could have missed. Have checked for a spark but still no luck. Maybe I'm just not seeing it. Feeling like a massive novice at the moment. What's next to check?

Next point was to strip down the carb and some new fuel but not even sure if that is the right step at the moment. Any Ideas?


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 10:01 pm 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:52 pm
Posts: 7566
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Don't touch the carb until you know the ignition is 100%. The first thing you need to do is to pull the king lead off at the dizzy cap and hold the terminal close to the engine block. Use a pair of insulated pliers to hold the lead to avoid getting and electric shock. Get a helper to turn the engine over on the starter. If there's power from the coil you will be getting a spark. If not then disconnect the wire on the +ve side of the coil and make sure there's 6v coming from that wire when the ignition is switched on. Did you get the correct coil? I've just had look in one of my workshop manuals (I only got rid of the Haynes) and you should have the Lucas 16C6 coil which is 6v. The ballast is built into the loom which is why you should be getting 6v into the coil with the ignition switched on and 12v when the starter motor is turning.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 10:12 pm 
Thanks Toledo Man, 100% sure its a 6v ballasted system, removed a 15c6 from her as she is right from the last set of toledo's produced. Tried sparking her from the King lead this evening. Didn't have any luck with a spark. I'll dig out the meter tomorrow and see what it's sending. Can't see any reason why not.

The only other thing new is the ignition light is staying lit. So not 100% sure what that means?


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 11:21 pm 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:52 pm
Posts: 7566
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
The ignition light won't go out until the engine is running. Does it go out when you turn the ignition off? To test the coil you could run a wire direct from the +ve terminal of the battery to the +ve terminal on the coil. If the king lead sparks when the starter motor is turned then the coil is working. All my workshop manuals (including the BL one) say the coil is a Lucas 16C6. The ballast runs from an ignition fed live and the bypass wire comes from the starter solenoid which supplies 12v only when the starter motor is running. Both wires are connected to the +ve side of the coil.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 83 posts ]  Go to page Previous 1 2 3 4 5 6 Next

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: djw113uk and 31 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited