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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 8:35 pm 
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Erm, fabulous shopping list, you however need to address the bottom end first, lighten, balance, best possible bearings you can get.

What exhaust, and carbs are you planning?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 8:38 pm 
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Also, if you're rallying it, don't lower it, keep it standard, or dependent in the events, maybe plus 1 inch

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1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue - fixed, ready to blow up
1972 Triumph Dolomite Sienna / David Brown
1965 Triumph 2000 Black
2005 BMW R1200ST Grey/Silver (for sale, enquire if interested)
2009 Fiat Panda White
2016 Jaguar XE Blue
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 8:48 pm 
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Also, if you're rallying it, don't lower it, keep it standard, or dependent in the events, maybe plus 1 inch
Carbs: going to keep the HS4 to set up, just to keep it original and the reason for its rarity. The crank I'm going to get balanced, lightened and Tuftrided to increase strength.

Planning a 421 exhaust from a spitfire and cut to fit

the ride height bit, using Gaz height adjustable shocks so I can set it to 1 inch lower or one higher. With the uprated springs, the front sits about 1 inch too high anyway so I'll have to fiddle with it to get it sitting right

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 10:49 pm 
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I suggest that you get the pistons & conrods balanced too. A balanced 1500 engine runs better.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the 1st Wednesday of every month at The Hollies Sports & Social Club, 12 Hough Lane, Bramley, Leeds, LS13 3NE
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the modern)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"I can help you stop smoking in bed. Buy a water bed and fill it with petrol." - Bob Monkhouse OBE (1928-2003)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 11:01 pm 
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I suggest that you get the pistons & conrods balanced too. A balanced 1500 engine runs better.
That's also on the list, maybe billet pistons and rods as it maybe lighter and make it quicker to rev up

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 11:58 pm 
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Cross drilling the crank is also recommended by all the folk I know who tune this motor.

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
Vermillion (and Rust) Sprint Auto EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 40 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 12:40 am 
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As has been said, you must cross drill the crank, as the bottom end lubrication is the biggest weakness on the 1500 engine. It was also recommended to pin the thrust washers to the main bearing caps to prevent them from moving.

An oil cooler is essential, even on a hard driven standard motor. Make sure you get one with a thermostat.

The flywheel is quite heavy and should be lightened.

Also, I have it on very good authority that it is quite beneficial to skim the block, so that the pistons are completely flush at the top of their stroke.

I have read that Terry Hurrell (of Triumphtune) used to run a tuned 1500 Spitfire as his everyday transport. It was apparently very reliable and produced 120 BHP.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 12:44 am 
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As has been said, you must cross drill the crank, as the bottom end lubrication is the biggest weakness on the 1500 engine. It was also recommended to pin the thrust washers to the main bearing caps to prevent them from moving.

An oil cooler is essential, even on a hard driven standard motor. Make sure you get one with a thermostat.

The flywheel is quite heavy and should be lightened.

Also, I have it on very good authority that it is quite beneficial to skim the block, so that the pistons are completely flush at the top of their stroke.

I have read that Terry Hurrell (of Triumphtune) used to run a tuned 1500 Spitfire as his everyday transport. It was apparently very reliable and produced 120 BHP.
Parts noted, I have read a few articles online and everyone mentions the bad oil feed to the crank. Lightened flywheel is also going to be added.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 3:33 pm 
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Everyone's been talking about do this, do that but the first thing I think you need to understand the characteristics of the engine and what you want to achieve before you go and throw loads of money at it. For example do you have a specific bhp figure that you want to achieve or do you want loads of torque and a reliable unit? Engine building can bleed your wallet dry, remember the law of diminishing returns!!! :)

The 1500 engine isn't a high revving engine, it's a low rev torquey unit, the max power you can get from it is about 120 - 130 bhp reliably. If you go revving the balls off of it then you'll just blow it up. I have had a number of Midget 1500's (same engine) which I have tuned up to 100 bhp and have never had a problem with reliability but then again I never rev any of my 1500 engines over 5500.

The best thing you can do with a 1500 engine is to maximise air in and out of it before going into balancing etc, so better manifold, better air filters etc... then take it from there.

I'm 'de-bumpering' and overhaulling the suspension on my midget 1500 at the moment but the engine in it has the following spec.

- K&N air filters (with a cold air feed)
- 4-2-1 Exhaust, maniflow 1 5/8" exhaust system
- SU's, not the waxstat type, richer needles (I can't remember what) I also filed the edge of the butterfly to help airflow.
- Electronic Ignition (magnatronic)
- Oil cooler, I don't have a thermostat
- Re-cored radiator
- Lightened flywheel
- Fully Balanced internals
- Uprated con rod bolts with polished rods
- Fast road camshaft
- Big inlet valves and standard size exhaust valves
- Flowed head
- I think I put TR6 pistons in it, but that required some extra work.
- Plus a panhard rod and anti tramp bars.

Image

Image

I get about 100bhp, I think, but I've never had it on a rolling road. Even with RSJs for bumpers it got to 60 in around 7 seconds.

When I built it I followed this article, it's a wealth of information.

http://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/ ... ding.shtml

Ultimately I think they are good engines, most problems are easy to resolve and spares are quite plentiful. If you understand its limitations then you'll end up with a good reliable torquy unit, which if you're rallying it will probably be really good. MG guys successfully race them in the MGOC championship.

Good luck and keep us posted on the progress.

Edit: found a photo of it at Goodwood!!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:37 pm 
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One of my Club Triumph friends used to race a Spitfire 1500. He has been restoring the car and it has been featured in Practical Classics. He is running the original 1500 lump so I can pick his brains if need be. James, you're right about the breathing which also needs to be taken into consideration. If the engine's already in bits then it makes sense to have it all balanced while it is apart.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the 1st Wednesday of every month at The Hollies Sports & Social Club, 12 Hough Lane, Bramley, Leeds, LS13 3NE
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
2008 Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL - the modern)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

"I can help you stop smoking in bed. Buy a water bed and fill it with petrol." - Bob Monkhouse OBE (1928-2003)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:06 pm 
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Quote:
Everyone's been talking about do this, do that but the first thing I think you need to understand the characteristics of the engine and what you want to achieve before you go and throw loads of money at it. For example do you have a specific bhp figure that you want to achieve or do you want loads of torque and a reliable unit? Engine building can bleed your wallet dry, remember the law of diminishing returns!!! :)

The 1500 engine isn't a high revving engine, it's a low rev torquey unit, the max power you can get from it is about 120 - 130 bhp reliably. If you go revving the balls off of it then you'll just blow it up. I have had a number of Midget 1500's (same engine) which I have tuned up to 100 bhp and have never had a problem with reliability but then again I never rev any of my 1500 engines over 5500.

The best thing you can do with a 1500 engine is to maximise air in and out of it before going into balancing etc, so better manifold, better air filters etc... then take it from there.

I'm 'de-bumpering' and overhaulling the suspension on my midget 1500 at the moment but the engine in it has the following spec.

- K&N air filters (with a cold air feed)
- 4-2-1 Exhaust, maniflow 1 5/8" exhaust system
- SU's, not the waxstat type, richer needles (I can't remember what) I also filed the edge of the butterfly to help airflow.
- Electronic Ignition (magnatronic)
- Oil cooler, I don't have a thermostat
- Re-cored radiator
- Lightened flywheel
- Fully Balanced internals
- Uprated con rod bolts with polished rods
- Fast road camshaft
- Big inlet valves and standard size exhaust valves
- Flowed head
- I think I put TR6 pistons in it, but that required some extra work.
- Plus a panhard rod and anti tramp bars.

Image

Image

I get about 100bhp, I think, but I've never had it on a rolling road. Even with RSJs for bumpers it got to 60 in around 7 seconds.

When I built it I followed this article, it's a wealth of information.

http://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/ ... ding.shtml

Ultimately I think they are good engines, most problems are easy to resolve and spares are quite plentiful. If you understand its limitations then you'll end up with a good reliable torquy unit, which if you're rallying it will probably be really good. MG guys successfully race them in the MGOC championship.

Good luck and keep us posted on the progress.

Edit: found a photo of it at Goodwood!!
Yeah, I read a lot of articles about the 1500 being a more torquey engine and that it really doesn't like revving. I'm planning getting the crank and the con rods balanced while they are out. A Rimmerbros full rebuild kit is also planned, which includes +.002" Pistons so I'll be getting it bored out as well. I'm not planning a full race build of 120+, 100 sounds like a good target as it seams like its the threshold between power and reliability.

Waxstat type are the red jet carbs aren't they as mines got a pair of those on

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:12 pm 
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Quote:

Waxstat type are the red jet carbs aren't they as mines got a pair of those on
No, red jets are what you put in when you get sick of Waxstat jets, Waxstats have a little silver disc housing on the bottom, about the diameter of a 2p piece.

Steve

_________________
2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
Vermillion (and Rust) Sprint Auto EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 40 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:19 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:

Waxstat type are the red jet carbs aren't they as mines got a pair of those on
No, red jets are what you put in when you get sick of Waxstat jets, Waxstats have a little silver disc housing on the bottom, about the diameter of a 2p piece.

Steve
Yeah, I had one on my autograss mini. What's the improvement of red jets over waxstat? As far as I could tell it was better throttle response but I couldn't tell as I'd just fitted a blueprint cam

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 9:05 pm 
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On a performance engine the Waxstats can tamper with your mixture settings, I think they can make the mixture too weak. They also have a poppet valve to prevent over-fuelling on the over-run, non waxstats don't have this and this opens up the chokes.

Edit: Here's a photo I prepared earlier!! :D

These are HS6's with Waxstat jets but are essentially the same as HS4's, you can see the valve on the butterfly.

Image

If I can tomorrow I'll take some photos of the Midget engine, actually, thinking about it I do have to change the release bearing so I'll take some photos of it then for you.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 1:56 pm 
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Quote:
On a performance engine the Waxstats can tamper with your mixture settings, I think they can make the mixture too weak. They also have a poppet valve to prevent over-fuelling on the over-run, non waxstats don't have this and this opens up the chokes.

Edit: Here's a photo I prepared earlier!! :D

These are HS6's with Waxstat jets but are essentially the same as HS4's, you can see the valve on the butterfly.

Image

If I can tomorrow I'll take some photos of the Midget engine, actually, thinking about it I do have to change the release bearing so I'll take some photos of it then for you.
So you run HS6 or HS4? The little valve on the butterfly needs removed too if it has them? I don't thing I have them as I got the car with red jets on

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