The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 11:36 pm 
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Right, after much discussion with DF and other members of the forum, I've decided to use a different axle on the car as the triumph one will break. I'm debating using either: a ford atlas axle shortened to 48 inches, a ford English axle, or trying to use the jag multi link while retaining the dolomite suspension.

The jagomite suspension will be cheaper but harder to combine the DVLA that it's standard suspension. It could be argued that it's a standard suspension with a supporting wishbone, or that I could argue that the front suspension has been retained and they don't give any further explanation on the points system on whether they mean both front and back is 2 points or if it's 2 for each.

What do you guys think
The DVLA points system works on 2 points (total) for both original axles and BOTH have to be present to get ANY points, ie, its 2 or none. On a Dolomite the front subframe is the "axle" so if you mod that to accept the engine/trans (as I did) both points are gone and you can fit any rear axle you like without further penalty. The same goes for the suspension, 2 points (total) for original front and rear suspension and BOTH must be original to get ANY points. Originality here seems not to exclude altered spring rates and lengths or the fitting of aftermarket shox like Gaz ASPs so long as the original design and mounts are adhered to.
Which is where the Jagomite deal would probably drop you in it, since even if you keep the weak Dolly trailing arms and coilovers, you will have no need for or place to fit the upper arms and will have to install a minimum of 1 track control arm (and realistically 2) each side along with attendant body mountings for them. I think even the limited knowledge of the VOSA testers would balk at that! (If they ever SEE it of course!)
With a car such as you envisage, you might be as well off (and I can't believe i'm saying this) to forget trying to work within the rules, build the best car you can, get your SVA (or whatever they call it this week) and wear your Q plate with pride!

Steve
Sounds very tempting, and I'll see what I can dig up. With the jagomite suspension, I would have to create a frame for the diff to sit in and I would use that frame to mount the upper control arms to so I wouldn't have any body mounts. This would also mean I could mount the diff frame to the body via some of the original suspension mounts or use the original inner suspension arms as part of the frame so I could argue that the upper control arms are a part of the axle and I'm using the original suspension arms

and i totally would do that but im trying to use the legislation to keep me from doing something stupid like a full on space framed monster. its my own atempt to stop something uncontrolable coming out of my garage

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 11:12 am 
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Unfortunatly, due to safety concerns from family members and loved ones, the project has been canceled...


...for now.

the project will continue but in another form, and will be posting that build thread elsewere on the site.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 12:35 pm 
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You might as well continue this thread. After all, it is the same car.

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West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 1:14 pm 
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You might as well continue this thread. After all, it is the same car.
I know, but it will be to clear up any confusion

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 8:07 pm 
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You can change the title of the thread if that helps.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 8:15 pm 
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You can change the title of the thread if that helps.
Yeah, that would work. Thanks

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:01 pm 
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Right, change of plan for this thread. I'm now turning it into a road rally car. The plan is to restore the shell with an acid bath and an electro-playing to protect against rust, poly bush bushings, Gaz gas coil overs, LSD, hydraulic disk rear conversion, 2 pot front calliper conversion, spitfire steel wheels widened to 13x7.5, and then I'm going to build the engine up with a hotter cam, billet internals, removing of mechanisms that can leach power like fuel, water, and oil pump, getting a low resistance alternator from a more modern car. Followed by exhaust, halogen conversion, and a full interior and rear seatbelts

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 10:09 pm 
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Are you using SPL for the acid dipping & e-coating? There's been a couple of Sprint restos on here that have had the SPL treatment and there's another Sprint that's going to get the same treatment.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 10:14 pm 
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Are you using SPL for the acid dipping & e-coating? There's been a couple of Sprint restos on here that have had the SPL treatment and there's another Sprint that's going to get the same treatment.
Yeah, I'll be using them, they seem experienced and good quality, and e-coating is just a good idea for triumphs in general and especially where I live

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 12:49 am 
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Location: Midhurst, West Sussex.
Blimey! Billett engine components are going to be very expensive to have made up. That's going to take some specialist engineering. I would be very interested to know what price you have been quoted, as I have a Midget 1500 currently being prepared as a sprint/hillclimb car.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 12:53 am 
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Blimey! Billett engine components are going to be very expensive to have made up. That's going to take some specialist engineering. I would be very interested to know what price you have been quoted, as I have a Midget 1500 currently being prepared as a sprint/hillclimb car.
There's a set of billet pistons and rods to fit into the spitfire 1500 engine over in the USA for sale for $600-900

EDIT: no, wait, they are forged Pistons with con rods, my mistake

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 3:46 am 
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Location: Highley, Shropshire
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Right, change of plan for this thread. I'm now turning it into a road rally car. The plan is to restore the shell with an acid bath and an electro-playing to protect against rust, poly bush bushings, Gaz gas coil overs, LSD, hydraulic disk rear conversion, 2 pot front calliper conversion, spitfire steel wheels widened to 13x7.5, and then I'm going to build the engine up with a hotter cam, billet internals, removing of mechanisms that can leach power like fuel, water, and oil pump, getting a low resistance alternator from a more modern car. Followed by exhaust, halogen conversion, and a full interior and rear seatbelts
If you're going to keep the 1500 engine, and I know there will be mockery in one or two quarters for even considering it, here is my two pennorth.
First of all you don't need to go mad with pistons and rods in this long stroke engine, the crank is the weak spot, get it cross drilled and tuftrided and get everything balanced. Keep the mechanical oil pump, it's too much trouble to mess with it and uprated ones are available. The other pumps, ditch if you must, but the gains are tiny. Port and flow the head, convert the seats for unleaded and 3 angle seats. A good 4 branch is vital (and will cost you, the Spitfire one doesn't fit a Dolomite) then I would go with Megajolt and Megasquirt using 2.5PI throttle bodies. Stir in a decent cam and you MIGHT, if you've done it right, get 120 bhp Finally, add lightness, it's the best and cheapest way to make a car faster!

All this will cost you a fair wedge and probably not get you to standard Sprint output - but it's your car, you can do what you like and at least it will be different!

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 11:30 am 
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Right, change of plan for this thread. I'm now turning it into a road rally car. The plan is to restore the shell with an acid bath and an electro-playing to protect against rust, poly bush bushings, Gaz gas coil overs, LSD, hydraulic disk rear conversion, 2 pot front calliper conversion, spitfire steel wheels widened to 13x7.5, and then I'm going to build the engine up with a hotter cam, billet internals, removing of mechanisms that can leach power like fuel, water, and oil pump, getting a low resistance alternator from a more modern car. Followed by exhaust, halogen conversion, and a full interior and rear seatbelts
If you're going to keep the 1500 engine, and I know there will be mockery in one or two quarters for even considering it, here is my two pennorth.
First of all you don't need to go mad with pistons and rods in this long stroke engine, the crank is the weak spot, get it cross drilled and tuftrided and get everything balanced. Keep the mechanical oil pump, it's too much trouble to mess with it and uprated ones are available. The other pumps, ditch if you must, but the gains are tiny. Port and flow the head, convert the seats for unleaded and 3 angle seats. A good 4 branch is vital (and will cost you, the Spitfire one doesn't fit a Dolomite) then I would go with Megajolt and Megasquirt using 2.5PI throttle bodies. Stir in a decent cam and you MIGHT, if you've done it right, get 120 bhp Finally, add lightness, it's the best and cheapest way to make a car faster!

All this will cost you a fair wedge and probably not get you to standard Sprint output - but it's your car, you can do what you like and at least it will be different!

Steve
Thank you for the knowledge, as I'm relitivly new here and quite young and could do with any know leg I can get. I forgot about the 2.5pi and think that would be a good little mini project. i would enjoy a sprint engine but I thing it would be more of a chalange to use the original engine

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 12:24 pm 
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More of a challenge and a waste of time and money...

Get an 1850 subframe and a TR7 engine like I suggested a while ago. You will end up with a much better car long term.

Jod Clark used to be the forum advocate of the 1500 engine and reckoned on around 100 bhp for his iirc. He's not on much
these days and seems to have left dolly ownership for the time being.


Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 1:17 pm 
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More of a challenge and a waste of time and money...

Get an 1850 subframe and a TR7 engine like I suggested a while ago. You will end up with a much better car long term.

Jod Clark used to be the forum advocate of the 1500 engine and reckoned on around 100 bhp for his iirc. He's not on much
these days and seems to have left dolly ownership for the time being.


Jonners
Cheers for the advice, I might end up doing that in the future

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