The DVLA points system works on 2 points (total) for both original axles and BOTH have to be present to get ANY points, ie, its 2 or none. On a Dolomite the front subframe is the "axle" so if you mod that to accept the engine/trans (as I did) both points are gone and you can fit any rear axle you like without further penalty. The same goes for the suspension, 2 points (total) for original front and rear suspension and BOTH must be original to get ANY points. Originality here seems not to exclude altered spring rates and lengths or the fitting of aftermarket shox like Gaz ASPs so long as the original design and mounts are adhered to.
Which is where the Jagomite deal would probably drop you in it, since even if you keep the weak Dolly trailing arms and coilovers, you will have no need for or place to fit the upper arms and will have to install a minimum of 1 track control arm (and realistically 2) each side along with attendant body mountings for them. I think even the limited knowledge of the VOSA testers would balk at that! (If they ever SEE it of course!)
With a car such as you envisage, you might be as well off (and I can't believe i'm saying this) to forget trying to work within the rules, build the best car you can, get your SVA (or whatever they call it this week) and wear your Q plate with pride!

Steve

You might as well continue this thread. After all, it is the same car.

You can change the title of the thread if that helps.

Are you using SPL for the acid dipping & e-coating? There's been a couple of Sprint restos on here that have had the SPL treatment and there's another Sprint that's going to get the same treatment.

Blimey! Billett engine components are going to be very expensive to have made up. That's going to take some specialist engineering. I would be very interested to know what price you have been quoted, as I have a Midget 1500 currently being prepared as a sprint/hillclimb car.

Right, change of plan for this thread. I'm now turning it into a road rally car. The plan is to restore the shell with an acid bath and an electro-playing to protect against rust, poly bush bushings, Gaz gas coil overs, LSD, hydraulic disk rear conversion, 2 pot front calliper conversion, spitfire steel wheels widened to 13x7.5, and then I'm going to build the engine up with a hotter cam, billet internals, removing of mechanisms that can leach power like fuel, water, and oil pump, getting a low resistance alternator from a more modern car. Followed by exhaust, halogen conversion, and a full interior and rear seatbelts

If you're going to keep the 1500 engine, and I know there will be mockery in one or two quarters for even considering it, here is my two pennorth.
First of all you don't need to go mad with pistons and rods in this long stroke engine, the crank is the weak spot, get it cross drilled and tuftrided and get everything balanced. Keep the mechanical oil pump, it's too much trouble to mess with it and uprated ones are available. The other pumps, ditch if you must, but the gains are tiny. Port and flow the head, convert the seats for unleaded and 3 angle seats. A good 4 branch is vital (and will cost you, the Spitfire one doesn't fit a Dolomite) then I would go with Megajolt and Megasquirt using 2.5PI throttle bodies. Stir in a decent cam and you MIGHT, if you've done it right, get 120 bhp Finally, add lightness, it's the best and cheapest way to make a car faster!

All this will cost you a fair wedge and probably not get you to standard Sprint output - but it's your car, you can do what you like and at least it will be different!

Steve

More of a challenge and a waste of time and money...

Get an 1850 subframe and a TR7 engine like I suggested a while ago. You will end up with a much better car long term.

Jod Clark used to be the forum advocate of the 1500 engine and reckoned on around 100 bhp for his iirc. He's not on much
these days and seems to have left dolly ownership for the time being.


Jonners