The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 2:50 pm 
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I was a little surprised to see PUS had deteriorated as much as it has.

If you look at Marts resto thread, the shell looks solid on the front panel. We also don't know how the car has been used and stored since it was finished, at least I don't

Then I started to look at dates and to be fair, even when new 'in the day' a Sprint could look very scabby at three years old and really rough at five years old. I remember looking at a 1979 model in 1982 and walked away, it was only 2.5 years old and was covered in rust blemishes.

PUS has certainly been through the 'looks like new' to 'needs some work' cycle a few times in it's life. A great colour and and interesting life it has had.

I am sure it will soon be looking spot on again

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 5:34 pm 
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I knew the last owner of PUS and I would say it was kept reasonably well but lived outside.

It didnt look at all scabby about 18 months ago last time I saw it. Drove nicely too...

I've often treated scab like that and try as I might it sometimes comes back again in similar places 18 months or so later.

Even though Sapphire was not that common a colour I have to conclude some colours are better than others scab resistance and overl longevity wise.
I'd say Russet and Vermillion do better as does white 19 but Damson, Mallard, Inca Carmine and Brooklands not so good.



Jonners

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 7:28 pm 
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I knew the last owner of PUS and I would say it was kept reasonably well but lived outside.

It didnt look at all scabby about 18 months ago last time I saw it. Drove nicely too...

I've often treated scab like that and try as I might it sometimes comes back again in similar places 18 months or so later.

Even though Sapphire was not that common a colour I have to conclude some colours are better than others scab resistance and overl longevity wise.
I'd say Russet and Vermillion do better as does white 19 but Damson, Mallard, Inca Carmine and Brooklands not so good.



Jonners
Indeed, I've been told it's down to the lead in the paint (originally)? I believe brown and red have a higher quantity and therefore have naturally a higher level of corrosion resistance.



Can anyone answer the question if the inner and outer arches are usually sealed together or not?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 8:33 pm 
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Can anyone answer the question if the inner and outer arches are usually sealed together or not?
I believe the factory made a perfunctory effort to ram some sealer around the arch joint after the joint was spot welded together but due to the complex shape and the very narrow gap available, not much would have got near the spot welds. Factor in 40 years of hardening and shrinkage of the seam sealer along with corrosion causing condensation in the boot area and the result is entirely predictable.
When I repair arches on Dollies, unless it's for concours, I cut off the inner arch lip, slit and turn up the outer arch lip and GLUE the 2 together with Tigerseal rather than welding. This gives more room for big wheels, less room for mud and muck to lodge and a much more airtight seal. In case you are wondering about the structural implications of NOT welding the joint, fear not, the metal will dissolve before the Tigerseal loses its grip!

Steve

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 6:45 pm 
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It was actually "hot tar" bitumen that was poured into the gap in the boot between the wheel tub & the rear wing skin.
when it it poured down & made a pool in the corner of the boot floor where it solidified, You will find it under the paint in this area on most Dolomites particularly early ones.

Mike.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 7:36 pm 
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It was actually "hot tar" bitumen that was poured into the gap in the boot between the wheel tub & the rear wing skin.
when it it poured down & made a pool in the corner of the boot floor where it solidified, You will find it under the paint in this area on most Dolomites particularly early ones.
So that's why my car kept catching fire whenever I welded it (further up the panel, I cleaned the local bit obviously)...

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 8:39 pm 
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It was actually "hot tar" bitumen that was poured into the gap in the boot between the wheel tub & the rear wing skin.
when it it poured down & made a pool in the corner of the boot floor where it solidified, You will find it under the paint in this area on most Dolomites particularly early ones.

Mike.
Yes my Sprint had a big puddle under the tank here which I had to dig out to discover just how bad the rot was around the bootfloor/wheel arch joint. The stuff certainly didn't do anything to preserve the rear arches!

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
Vermillion (and Rust) Sprint Auto EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 40 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:46 pm 
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I am familiar with the black tar and question how far it penetrates when new.

A tip given to me years ago by a bodywork chap was to pour 'red oxide primer down into the joints'. I must admit that I have used this approach followed by waxoyl on vehicles and it does provide good protection.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 3:04 pm 
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Sounds like we'll have to make an assessment when we get there and decide the best course of action to try to give them a bit more longevity, it doesn't seem hard to improve on the orignal design!

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:47 pm 
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Most interesting to read about different colour properties Jonners and the tar situation Mikey, you learn something new every day!! Hope you are both well, Kind Regards Russell

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:58 pm 
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Most interesting to read about different colour properties Jonners and the tar situation Mikey, you learn something new every day!!
I agree, I was wondering what all the black stuff was when I was looking inside my rear wings.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:02 pm 
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Most interesting to read about different colour properties Jonners and the tar situation Mikey, you learn something new every day!!
I agree, I was wondering what all the black stuff was when I was looking inside my rear wings.
Excellent! As I've not had my car long (it's spent 9/10 weeks of ownership in the garage having its engine rebuild!!) I've not noticed but you can bet what the first thing I'm going to look at when it returns soon!!! :-)

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1973 (L) Triumph Dolomite 1850 Manual (Non OD), Old English White
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:05 pm 
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I was wondering what all the black stuff was when I was looking inside my rear wings.
So are you going to keep the "black stuff" to maintain your car's originality, or try something that will actually maintain the car's integrity? :)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:07 pm 
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So are you going to keep the "black stuff" to maintain your car's originality, or try something that will actually maintain the car's integrity? :)
Hell no, it's being dipped then having that e-coat business, that should get in the rear arch seams! :D


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:19 pm 
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So are you going to keep the "black stuff" to maintain your car's originality, or try something that will actually maintain the car's integrity? :)
Hell no, it's being dipped then having that e-coat business, that should get in the rear arch seams! :D
Excellent!!! :D

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1973 (L) Triumph Dolomite 1850 Manual (Non OD), Old English White
2012 (12) Vauxhall Insignia 1800 Exclusiv, Manual (Non OD!!), Technical Grey


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