The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 10:13 pm 
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It looks as though you've only fitted one bolt on each of the upper wishbones.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 10:57 pm 
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Looking good but front brake callipers are normally to the rear of the front wheel


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 6:46 am 
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Quote:
It looks as though you've only fitted one bolt on each of the upper wishbones.
Looks like the shocks are not fitted yet. :-D

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 9:22 am 
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Hi guys

The shocks are in now but was dark by the time I got them in.

It was only once I got the sub frame under the car I realised the calipers were wrong.

I will put a new photo on once I stop feeling embarrassed lol !!!

Thanks Guys

John

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 7:27 pm 
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Fitting the uj assembly between steering rack and steering shaft on your own .......... What a complete nightmare, needed to remove the steering rack clamps in the end to give the space I required then refit it.

Done now thank god!!!

Waiting for the bulkhead sound proofing to arrive to carry on withe the engine bay. :D

Can anyone tell me how hard it is to refit the gear box after the engine is in or is it a lot easier to put in as one.

Cheers!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 11:55 am 
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The downpipe is a pig to get at and will foul the box if fitted with pipe fitted. Much easier to fit together. Engine /box/downpipe all in one. Jack the rear of car as much as you can and tilt engine box down a lot too. Feed it all in and use trolley jack under back of box when its getting close to the ground.

Tony

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 7:26 pm 
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Thanks Tony, I could't get the down pipe off when I was removing the engine, just the one bolt I could not get too. So I dropped the lot out through the bottom by life the car. I will definitely have it attached before it goes in and will follow you advice and put it all in, in one go.

John

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80 Doly Sprint :D
64 Series 2 Landy


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 8:59 am 
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Another vote for the all together method if you have a decent lift and I like the raising rear wheels trick too.

Fit studs and nuts on the manifold to downpipe joint would also be my advice.

Jonners

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:42 pm 
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Hi Guys

Just moved the moved the callipers to the right position, so I feel less stupid now!

Also you can see the shocks are in too.

John


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:58 pm 
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Now starting to get the engine ready, mounting brackets needed some attention so took them back to bare metal. All new mounts ready to go, it was surprising how out of shape the original ones had got. Going to fit the manifold, down pipe and gear box. I've installed the new high torque starter (does anyone know what wiring alterations I have to do) going to fit electronic ignition as easier to do now.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 1:04 pm 
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Engine mounting brackets are handed....

Deeper one goes to starter motor side and both have the cutout to the top.

Do you have some decent mountings?

Earth strap goes to one of the alternator side engine mounting bracket bolts too.

Jonners

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:03 pm 
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Thanks Jonners really helpful, saved me asking !!

Still very confused about the starter wiring only two terminals on my new starter obviously I know where the big one goes but I still have WR & WY wires ??

Sorry if I being a bit dumb!!

John

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 9:08 pm 
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Had a spare hour so worked on the manifold and fitted the electronic ignition


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 5:19 pm 
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Another day in the garage, went through all the small bits and bobs so more rubbing down and painting to be done. A few more bits bolted together.


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73 Mini Clubman
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64 Series 2 Landy
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 7:30 pm 
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One the wiring side the red and white is the ignition start wire for the solenoid while cranking and the other is the ballast bypass feed
that comes from a smaller terminal on the old starter.

If you are using electronic ignition with a ballasted (6V coil) you can arrange some other method of feeding the coil plus when cranking.
I would just go for a 12V only coil and discard the OE ballasted ignition feed altogether with a wire from the fuse box, ignition fed fuse, non fused side to coil plus.

Jonners

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