The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 10:27 pm 
Thanks Steve, let me now and I'll PM an address

Cheers
John


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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 11:52 am 
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TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7014
Location: Highley, Shropshire
You have a PM!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 3:31 pm 
Just seen your carbs. They look terrific but it may be a good idea to ditch the waxstats (stick a couple of 1ps in).


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 4:02 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:45 pm
Posts: 11179
Location: Middlesex
This is how myths get perpetuated....

Waxtstats do actually work....so if yours are doing the job why would you swap them out for something that doesn't.....?

On all mine with waxtstats its full choke to start and straight back to fast idle, then totally off after 100 yds....even on chilly days.
On fixed jetters you yank the choke about for the first quarter mile at least and longer in winter.

Just set them up right and let them work for you.

Jonners

_________________
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2016 8:42 pm 
How do you adjust them?

Getting rid of them certainly seemed to steady the SUs on my Herald.


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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 5:36 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:45 pm
Posts: 11179
Location: Middlesex
Same as the fixed.... Just do it when the car has warmed up.

On OHV cars you really do need the heat shield to be in good nick. Its absence or bad condition will have an adverse effect on waxstats.

Jonners

_________________
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 9:30 am 
Thanks guys, all advice is appreciated.

Having to mould new arches onto the wife 73 mini as I had promised for months!!

Be back on the dolly by the weekend. So looking forward to driving her again but still seems a mile away yet. My birthday next week and everyone thinks I'm sad wanting car parts for presents, offered to get the misses a new iron for hers, she didn't see the funny side lol.

Hopefully she'll be happy when the arches are done.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 10:25 pm 
Got the brackets I needed (thanks to Steve) so was able to start putting the front suspension back together
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 5:53 pm 
Finally finished the arches on the mini and had enough time to finish assembling the the front suspension, will probably make a start on the body work while the weather is good and do bits on the engine when it's raining. So will probably have the engine done first !!.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 7:49 pm 
Sorry not added anything for a while, got to crack on with the engine bay so the nearly rebuilt engine can all go back in.

Might rebuild the c post if I can't find a panel anywhere. As you can see needs a bit of work.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2016 4:22 pm 
I have now rebuilt the refurbished carbs and manifold, but am now going to fit a pair of Weber 45's as the rebuilt engine has a fast road cam fitted and want to get the best out of it. I will be selling the fully refurbished ones with the manifold and air box at some point soon so please get in touch if you have a good home for them to go to.
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Also been cleaning up the last few crud covered bits I.e. Gear box and mounts, adaptor plate, sump cover etc.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 8:45 pm 
Got my engine back today after a total rebuild (thanks Mart) and my new twin 45's came today.

Now got to get the rest of the car to look as good as the engine.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 7:55 pm 
Been a busy on the car lately again lots of little bits and a few big jobs completed, striped the engine bay clean and removed all the paint, which was a pleasant suprise as no welding required but spent a lifetime getting the old subframe bolts out, one had to drilled, heated and finally knocked it out with an air chisel. Wish I tried the air the air chisel first, live and learn!!

Refurbished the servo and master cylinder, engine support bracket, steering column plate. On the down side lots of fabrication needed around the headlight pods inner and outer plates plus inner eyebrows rusted out.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 6:19 pm 
Had a good day with the weather so concentrated on getting the engine bay ready so the suspension can go back in and make it mobile again.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 8:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:48 pm
Posts: 8446
Location: Winscombe, North Somerset, England
Love that colour John. :thumbsup:

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. :boggle2: ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450


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