The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 5:43 pm 
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thats the before and after carbon cleaning

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thats the engine painted up

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I cleaned the carburetors not that it matters (the one on the right is before cleaning)

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Putting the engine in


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 5:46 pm 
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and finally the mysterious part

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it had these nuts and washers on

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when it was in the engine bay it was the top most connector with just one wire connected. Any help is much apreciated as it is very frustrating not being able to find any info on it
Cheers,
Alex :)


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 11:48 pm 
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How broken is your solenoid? VERY! This damage is irretrievable you will need a new one. While you won't find one listed separately, a good auto electrical place should be able to find something to do the job. I think you have probably made a mistake wiring the starter, the big red battery lead should have gone on that upper outer stud.

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
Vermillion (and Rust) Sprint Auto EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 40 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2017 5:11 pm 
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Cheers Steve,

Im pretty sure I did wire it up correctly, I think i forgot to remove one of the wires when i removed the old engine and that subsequently pulled and broke the terminal. Various places online sell starter solenoids for lucas starter motors (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-LUCAS-TYP ... QVmU-HgYtw) but I cant find what type starter i have so I can see whether it matches up.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 1:19 pm 
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This is the wiring diagram I'm using, I managed to buy a new old stock solenoid

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 8:00 pm 
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Noticed that this wire from the solenoid to the conveyor block was missing

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Everything now works apart from the indicators don't work, only the front indicators come on when the hazard lights are turned on (and they flash quicker from the lower load), the oil light is always on when the key is tured (in both positions) and the ignition doesn't work


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 8:06 pm 
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I forgot to mention this wire:
Image

Instead of going to the connector block it goes back to the solenoid (the same stud as the other wire to the alternator) it's got a ring connector so it seems like it was made that way to start with? Could my wiring diagram be incorrect/a later model?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 10:21 pm 
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Quote:
I forgot to mention this wire:
Image

Instead of going to the connector block it goes back to the solenoid (the same stud as the other wire to the alternator) it's got a ring connector so it seems like it was made that way to start with? Could my wiring diagram be incorrect/a later model?
It's really not important which of the 2 it goes to. It has the same effect whatever.

I take it you have found or made a jumper wire from the solenoid to the conveyor block? Not much will work without it!

Check all the connections at the hazard light switch as a first step in your indicator problem, though there are 2 flasher units, they sort of interact if there is a faulty or bad connection or a sticky hazard switch. And check all the earths carefully for the indicator fault too, probably 80% of indicator problems are down to bad earths of one sort or another!

Oil light, I can't visualize why this should be doing this, but it may be related to "ignition doesn't work" what exactly do you mean by this?

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
Vermillion (and Rust) Sprint Auto EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 40 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 2:06 pm 
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Hi Steve, cheers for the reply,

I made a jumper lead, I have no idea how I lost the old one. I'll be sure to check and clean the earths as well as the connectors for the indicators, I'm 90% sure it will be a sticky connector as the back hazard lights are now working when they weren't before. The oil light is always on when the key is turned though that's not surprising as the engine has been drained of oil, the ingnotion however is not as simple. From memory it comes on whoever the key is tuned, and only turns off once the alternator is up to speed and generating power, it however never comes on. It could be a broken bulb but when testing the spark plugs they don't give out any spark when starting


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 3:39 pm 
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Quote:
.... The oil light is always on when the key is turned though that's not surprising as the engine has been drained of oil, ....
You're not turning over an engine without oil?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 3:59 pm 
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Unfortunately, I didn't want to fill it up in case Something didn't work and I'd have to drain it again, I haven't turned it over much (maybe 10 revolutions) and it was with a semi dead battery so quite slow, I thought the oil left in on the surfaces would be okay for a tiny bit of turning over


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 10:47 pm 
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Oil is cheaper than engines! Get some oil in it pronto, even if it's just cheapo stuff!

The oil light won't go out till there is some oil to pressurize!

Probably best to start the ignition light search at the alternator (check for feed at the small wire in the plug with ignition on) followed by the bulb.

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
Vermillion (and Rust) Sprint Auto EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 40 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 9:39 pm 
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Hi

I have filled up with oil, it was Halfords classic car oil so expensive but it's in a nice can so. It turns over fine and oil pressure is good. Unfortunately the fuel pump is refusing to work. The engines a midget 1500 so the fuel pump was slightly different but The rubber pipe connected it to the copper fuel lines pretty well. I couldn't get it to pump any fuel to the carbs so disconnected the out line, it wasn't pumping anything (even air). I've opened it up but the diaphragm moves up and down perfectly so I'm pretty confused


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 10:10 pm 
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Quote:
Hi

I have filled up with oil, it was Halfords classic car oil so expensive but it's in a nice can so. It turns over fine and oil pressure is good. Unfortunately the fuel pump is refusing to work. The engines a midget 1500 so the fuel pump was slightly different but The rubber pipe connected it to the copper fuel lines pretty well. I couldn't get it to pump any fuel to the carbs so disconnected the out line, it wasn't pumping anything (even air). I've opened it up but the diaphragm moves up and down perfectly so I'm pretty confused
There are two different types of fuel pump fitted to the OHC engines, one has a straight arm that contacts the cam, the other has a curved arm. I think it is the curved arm one that has a spacer fitted but the straight arm one doesn't. So if you have a straight arm pump fitted with a spacer, then the pump won't work. I believe it is also possible to get the arm behind the cam, which also won't operate the pump.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 7:35 pm 
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Hi

The car came with a spare fuel pump so I fitted that, it now works fine. I took apart the old pump and its seals had warped (they were the very simple rubber type). The pump is now filling the float valves fine though after cranking the engine over it doesn't seem to be getting any petrol into the cylinders (it's not firing and spark plugs are coming out without any smell or sign of petrol)


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