The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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 Post subject: Hello and .....
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 2:00 pm 
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Welcome to the forum.

That is a good story, maybe one to submit to Dolly Mixture…. :) ?





Ian.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 12:48 pm 
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Probably easier to source a replacement radio; it may seem a perverse way of rectifying a simple fault, but I have such a two button radio, but were I to let you have the knobs, then I'd be in a similar predicament to you!

Other than that you may find an old radio specialist who has a box full of assorted knobs...but then again you may not!!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 1:59 pm 
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Knobs!
http://www.retrocarstuff.com/classic_ca ... car_radio/
https://www.retrocarstuff.com/shop/inde ... ption=true
:D


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 9:41 am 
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Welcome to the forum.

Don't forget to join the Club. It is worth every penny of the membership fee. There's no such thing as a silly question so keep on asking. The biggest problem will be rust unless you're handy with the MIG or you know somebody who is. The 1300 engine is simple enough to work on.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 9:50 am 
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Sorry to burst your bubble, but the wing is welded on so very hard to remove and the damaged section is almost unreachable from inside the arch. The door damage by comparison is simple to fix once the doorcard is removed.
Best thing is to find someone who has one of those line dent remover/pullers like Edd China uses on Wheeler Dealers.

Nice car though, lots of potential!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2016 11:57 am 
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I suspect that you might have to get the dent in the front wing filled in. Access to behind some of that area as a bit difficult. At least you know that it is solid metal underneath and if the job is done properly, it shouldn't be a problem. I've found a few small dents on my 1850 during the respray which can be filled with stopper. The dent in the door is accessible from behind so it can be pushed out and then it should only need a skim of filler. There was another paintless dent removal featured on Wheeler Dealers in the current series (the Chevrolet LUV pickup truck). It uses induction to take the dents out.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2016 1:11 pm 
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An amusing tale, a nice car to get back on the road, and a bonus for the use of 'contretemps', which apart from being regularly used by my Geography teacher at Frizinghall Middle School is not a word I've come across since!

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Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)

Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 1:00 pm 
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I suspect you have one of the cheap replacement slave cylinders with a very poor seal design.

You need the OE girling original I'm afraid, or at the least its piston and the Girling seal.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 2:37 pm 
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I recently had the same problem bleeding the clutch on my 1300 Dolly. I was loosing fluid with indications that both the master and slave were leaking and had obtained a new old stock Girling master at the NEC and a recon Girling slave. The master looked perfect but on checking it was found to have rusted in the bore between the inlet port and the seal. The rest was ok, red grease had protected it but had not got fully up the bore. This was scrapped and a new one that had been destined for a TR4 fitted. I was surprised when I was told this would fit but it did. All put back together it would not bleed and kept pulling in air. My local classic restorer tried a few times and failed and junked my reconditioned slave saying the seals were shot. He fitted a slave for an MG Midget 1500 that he had. This is the same as on ours but the bleed and inlet port are side by side when fitted rather than one above the other. Problem solved.

I tried to fit original parts and avoid the problems with modern Chinese "copies" but failed totally only for "modern" parts for other classics to come to my rescue.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2016 7:03 pm 
Glad its sorted. I had similar trouble and ended up replacing both cylinders. One tip I did find though: I was finding it virtually impossible to bleed with the slave cylinder bolted in position. It was far easier to bleed it with the slave under the bonnet, above the master, then fitting it after bleeding.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:21 pm 
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Location: Highley, Shropshire
Quote:
Well after a pretty exhaustive search for air getting into the clutch system I drew a blank. Which meant looking for other less obvious causes.

Finally concluded (and I say this somewhat red-faced :oops: ) that the carpet was rucking up underneath the clutch pedal. When I took the carpet up to look at the state of the floor in the driver footwell I don't think I secured it properly. One of the fixing studs proved rather obstinate. So it seems as if the carpet has been creeping down the footwell and as a result I've not been able to depress the clutch properly.

It does seem a little odd though that I was able to shift gears ok with the engine off.

So she's back on the road again (fingers crossed).


Even if the clutch was completely devoid of fluid, you would be able to shift with the engine stationary!

When the engine is running, 2/3 of the gearbox is turning, even in neutral. Depressing the clutch allows the box to stop turning over so gears can be selected. Any partial failure of the hydraulics (or too much carpet) will keep the box turning and make it difficult or impossible to select gears when the car is standing still with the engine running.

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 5:13 pm 
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I think this might be 153780 from the parts book.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID008556

Which gives the end joints as RS1054

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RS1054.

Perhaps a 1300 owner could confirm that ( Mine is an 1850 which is a bit different. )

HTH,
Tony.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 12:53 pm 
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Posts: 11179
Location: Middlesex
Similar things are found on V8 rovers and stags....
Try Winns or LD parts.

Jonnners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 1:03 pm 
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Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Didn't the Club have these in stock?

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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