The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2018 3:49 pm 
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Cleaned the mating faces on the block and the head up.
I've cut slots in one of the (old) studs and run it down the threaded holes in the block to chase the crud out.
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 8:55 am 
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I didn't get much spanner time last night, but I've reattached the exhaust manifold to the head and got the head in place with a couple of studs in to locate it.
Next job will be to fit all the studs/bolts and torque down the head.


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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 10:48 am 
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Head has been torqued down, cam sprocket re-fitted and timing checked.
Let's hope I can get some decent spanner time sometime soon and finish the job.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 5:24 pm 
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Oh 4r$e.
The front most bolt on the rear manifold flange has pulled a thread out of the block before it reached the specified torque.
I've swapped the bolt for a UNC stud that goes further into the block, put a nut on it and pulled it up as tight as I dare, but stopped short of the torque in the workshop manual.
I'll fill her up with water sometime soon and see what's what.
If I'm unlucky I'll end up stripping it all back off and re-taping that hole to a larger thread. Won't that be "fun"?


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 5:42 pm 
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THREAD-TAP-R ... 1438.l2649

These are brilliant for ally, and cheap :D Had a similar thing the other day on a modern.

Tony.

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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 6:18 pm 
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Quote:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THREAD-TAP-R ... 1438.l2649

These are brilliant for ally, and cheap :D Had a similar thing the other day on a modern.

Tony.
Never used one before Tony, what are they like to use?


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 6:33 pm 
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Very easy, just take your time and make sure you keep the drill and tap square when using. They really are good :D Some people have found watching a you tube video helpfull, or practice first on a scrap piece ally or steel.

Tony.

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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 7:49 pm 
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Well the manifold isn't leaking water....
But it won't start AND the bypass tube is peeing water out. So, manifold will have to come back off.

Edit:
It turns out that I'm a moron. I took the cam cover off and turned the engine over by hand.... at the top of compression stroke on #1 the rotor arm is pointing at the #4 plug lead.
DOH! Rookie error!


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 10:00 pm 
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How many times have we all done that :lol: :lol: :lol:

Tony.

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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 7:45 am 
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How many times have we all done that :lol: :lol: :lol:

Tony.
My excuse is too much time spent working on OHV engines not OHC.... on the ohv if the cam timing is right and you havent taken the dizzy out then the ignition timing is still right.... with the separate drive to the dizzy on the OHC engines you can get the crank and the cam timed up right but still have the dizzy out by 180deg.

Obvious really, but I clearly wasn't paying attention!


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