The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 9:01 pm 
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Thanks Dave and Steve, that's exactly what I was thinking. I have some of those ridiculously thin cutting discs and some intergrips for when I weld it back together.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 1:30 pm 
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A present from Tanya.... I mean Tayna arrived today.

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As soon as Jack went for his nap I was straight outside, took the old 1992 dated battery out and fitted a nice shiney new Varta B34. I did have a peak under the battery pad at the state of the chassis leg, it's nice and clean, a bit of surface corrosion and thats it. Phew!

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Leads off, plugs out and lets see what happens.

We have power...

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All systems go after 20 years...

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Turned her over and the oil pressure light went out nice and quickly.

Checked for spark and no surprises, nothing. So the next job will be to clean the points, change the oil and filter and try to start her on some fresh fuel.

I did do a wet compression test whilst the plugs were out and the results were rather low. I will still try and start her and take it from there, I may have to whip the head off though.

The battery's on the charger as its been doing some cranking and its not raining so that's put a stop to my fun for today!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 1:32 pm 
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Forgot to mention, I did a test of what works and what doesn't work.

Everything works, all lights, wipers, flashers, hazards etc...

Even the clock!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 11:12 pm 
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A working Keinzle clock is a rarity in itself!

If it's been stood still for a long time (which it undoubtedly has) the piston rings are bound to be a bit gummed up! Hence the lowish compression. If you can persuade it to start, they will probably free up somewhat with a couple of gentle warm up/ cool down cycles and some fresh oil/filter. As if I need to tell you, you don't want to be pulling the head off unless you absolutely HAVE to!

Steve

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'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 9:35 am 
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Thanks Steve, I have put some diesel down the bores to soak just so I can get enough compression to fire up (did my usual fill the Land Rover up and sneakily fill a coke bottle with diesel trick). Just turned it over and it's spinning better so I'll let it soak all day, spin it and then do another compression test to see how it is.

But yes, head off is the very last resort, those studs look a bit rusty! I know it won't help but I have been spraying them with some WD40 at every opportunity though!

Bruce, sorry I was absolutely knackered last night when you phoned! Before you started breaking up with me, yes, the tanks out just so I can check the boot floor (which is mint btw!) and check the bottom of the tank and inside, there was a good 5 litres of fuel in it, 20 years old, thats gone in the can for disposal. The bottom of the tank is crusty, but I am hoping that there are no pinholes, shouldn't be. I can pressure test it in the old bath I have using the rad pressure tester before painting the bottom.

Fuel lines need a blow though which I was going to do anyway and I'll replace all of the joining rubbers just to avoid any leaks.

I now have a can of Shells finest VPower waiting to go in. Also some, well I say cheap 20W50 but it's Carlube branded and 5L only costs me £15 at Andrew Page so thats going in for the first start up with a new filter. The plan is to start it up with fresh oil and a filter in, run it up to temp, stop, drain and replace oil and filter. Then I'll replace that oil and filter after about 100 miles or so with some decent Castrol 20W50. As long as the bottom end is fine I should be ok to resume normal service schedules.

Posh camera is out so more photos to follow! 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:36 pm 
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The fuel tank is not leaking, however the sender doesn't work very well. It sort of works, after a squirt of WD40 it does read on the gauge but it's not great so I'm going to need a new one really.

I had to rig up a kit to pressure test the tank as my rad one wouldnt fit.

Upon Bruce's advice below, if you do this then you do it at your own risk!

WARNING, DO NOT PUT MORE THAN 2 PSI IN, YOU'LL RISK DEFORMING THE TANK AND/OR BLOWING YOURSELF UP!

Take an old subframe bush and hot glue a car tyre valve on the end, then use the tank joining rubber to fit it to the tank. Seal all other holes and pump it up!

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Squirt the rusty area with washing up liquid solution, any holes will bubble.

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Took the sender out to look inside the tank, it's a bit rusty to say the least!

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I'll get some Bilt Hamber tank cleaner.

I can still rig up the fuel can as a temporary fuel tank so I can still start the car.

Diesel is still soaking in the bores!


Last edited by James467 on Thu Mar 02, 2017 6:18 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 1:03 pm 
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That fuel tank looks revolting.

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1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 4:26 pm 
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Quote:
That fuel tank looks revolting.
It is pretty bad, it doesnt leak so should be saveable with some Bilt Hamber.

Oil and filter have been changed, as has the transmission fluid. Both were pretty nasty!

I still can't get a spark even after cleaning the points and dizzy cap so I'm just going to bite the bullet and replace them all so I have put in a quick order with TDC spares! I was going to anyway, it was just going to be a bit of a bonus to get it firing on the old points and cap. I want to get it to fire on points properly first before putting in the Lumenition otherwise I risk chasing my tail with electrical faults.

Oh and I have painted the tank!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 5:31 pm 
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Word of advice.
Use no more than 2 psi on a fuel tank.

Preferably, fill with water, and pressurise, looking for water coming out.

Modern tanks are only proofed to 4 or 5 psi

I'm not sure of the surface area if a Dolomite tank, but at 4 psi, multiplied by say, 200 inches surface area, it might go with a bit of a crack.

At work, we do it with water, and in a safety cage.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 5:43 pm 
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Thanks Bruce, I've updated the post accordingly!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 8:34 pm 
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Time for a quick update.

Despite cleaning the points as much as I could I couldn't get a spark. Even with Bruce's suggestion of bypassing the ballast resistor didnt work.

Amazingly I managed to get hold of a set of points and condensor and some universal leads so swapped them out, set the gap properly and low and behold we got a spark.

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Air cleaners off, new plugs and some fuel in the float chambers of the carbs and I turned her over. Amazingly she came to life! Very reluctantly at first, but after a bit she began to run smoothly. She ticks over on choke, if I try to rev her then she does miss, this could be anything from a sticky valve, to the front carb not getting enough fuel so on the basis that she runs I shut her down so I can get the fuel tank cleaned and back in and I'll run her up to temperature from the tank through the pump.

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If you click on the below photo you should get a nice video!

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 9:17 pm 
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If it won't rev I would suspect a perished berg diaphram. Easy to change....

The merest pin hole in a diaphram will do damage to the running and pick up. One of the two main reasons I hate bergs...

Jonners

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 6:25 am 
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Video link doesn't work for me. Good progress.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 9:18 am 
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Thanks, yes, the video link's a bit flakey sometimes it works for me, sometimes it doesnt.

I'll try to YouTube it.

Last night I was pondering over what to do with RUK and I had an idea......

I was on my third beer though!

And no, it doesnt concern engine swaps or modification.

All will be revealed in the next edition of Dolly Mixture!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 5:11 pm 
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Sorry, bit late on this one but my 1850 had a curious ignition related misfire.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=18215&p=179630&hili ... ad#p179630

Tony.


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