The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 1:46 pm

All times are UTC




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 811 posts ]  Go to page Previous 128 29 30 31 3255 Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 9:42 am 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1909
Location: Hampshire
If I want the steering wheel to be centre then they are too wide. I'm one of these people who has to have his seat in the right position, it's just me! They also have to be raised slightly to get around the transmission tunnel but not by much, to make them the correct height for me means they just clear the transmission tunnel.

Image

I took some more measurements last night, cut the MG specific brackets off the rails and sat the seat in on some wood blocks to have a look at the height. Once you cut all of the rubbish off of the MGF seat runners there are plenty of holes for mounting. It's almost like they were made to be modified! I think in the MGF the rails sit horizontal (can someone who owns an MGF confirm this for me?), in the dolly this makes the seat rather low and flat, raising it by 26mm helps and I want to be able to tailor the seat angle as well.

I'm off to pyramid steel today to get a load of box section, 4mm plate and strip etc...

Need to take some more measurements but I have made a rough sketch of how I want to do it.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 11:37 am 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1909
Location: Hampshire
Just moving aside to electrical wiring for a bit.

I am going to relay the heated rear window with a 10 minute rear window timer relay (just a normal relay but with a 10 minute timer) 30 Amp rated and I have a nice momentary switch to replace the pull switch. The idea is that you press the switch and don't have to think about having to turn it off it automatically switches off when the ignition is switched off.

The relay will sit behind the dash with the lights on warning buzzer.

Tony (@MIG Welder) will probably know the answer to this!

Question - does anyone know how many amps the hrw pulls when turned on? If not, I'll have to measure it.

Looking at the existing switch there are two white and black wires running out to the rear window, do they run to each side of the rear window?

Just need to make sure I'm getting the correct size wiring.

Thanks!


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 2:24 pm 
Offline
TDC Member

Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 2:52 pm
Posts: 2303
Hi James, When I was doing the HRW on my 1977 1850 I measured a gnats over 10A but that was at 10.5V across the actual terminals of the HRW, with "13 and a bit volts" at the battery. So even "average" wiring drops quite a lot. It can be improved with thicker cable to the back, but even in Winter by the time I've de-iced the windscreen the rear vision is O.K. It's "adequate" rather than "astounding" in performance.

Curious about the 2 black/ white tracer wires on the HRW switch. Is your HRW switch on the dash rather than down in the depths of the parcel shelf ? In which case I think that occurred from VA15,000 . Of the 2 black / white wires, on >15,000 one goes to the HRW bulb in the cluster, the other goes to the car's Nearside on the tag to the HRW. There is a bullet connector and colour change to plain black close to the connector in the boot high up on the LHS. The Offside connector goes down to earth. I'll have a look later when its stopped raining.
[ Updated to correct locations 2/8/17 ]
Tony.


Last edited by MIG Wielder on Wed Aug 02, 2017 5:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 2:34 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1909
Location: Hampshire
Thanks, here you go Tony, it's the early one down in the depths of the parcel shelf!

This is DTR but they are both the same.

Image

Image


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 2:47 pm 
Offline
TDC Member

Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 2:52 pm
Posts: 2303
Good pictures ! Is the odd wire hanging down also a white / black one ? Since there are 2 green wires and 2 black / white wires I wonder if B.L. doubled up the cables ( on early models) to get extra low cable resistance to the rear of the car. I'll check where the connector is at the back is in a mo.
The black wire on the switch will be the bulb earth.
Cheers for now,
Tony.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 3:04 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1909
Location: Hampshire
Quote:
Is the odd wire hanging down also a white / black one ?
The one in the background? No, that's the connection for the choke warning light.
Quote:
I wonder if B.L. doubled up the cables ( on early models) to get extra low cable resistance to the rear of the car.
I was thinking the same thing, I'll trace them back in DTR as I'd rather not pull RUK apart too much! This is the relay/controller.

Image

I was thinking, use the existing earth, green and white/black feeds to power the hrw, terminals 2, 5 & 3. Run a new wire from the ignition swtich and new mom switch as the trigger to terminals 1 & 4. I'm pretty sure the existing wires are up to the job, 12 coming in should be fused from the existing fusebox, I am thinking that it may be an idea to fuse the feed coming into the relay and to the hrw out of terminal 5 just to be safe?


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 5:46 pm 
Offline
TDC Member

Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 2:52 pm
Posts: 2303
There would be 2 alternative ways to wire this up.

1. Black, earth to pin 2.
Black / white wires to HRW to pin 5.
Existing green wire to pin 4 and link to pin 3 via a 15A in-line fuse.
Momentary make switch from green wire on pin 4 to pin 1.

This has the advantage of simplicity and since the existing green wire carries full HRW current it will be adequate for the new relay where it does the same.

Alternatively ...

2. Black, earth to pin 2.
Black / white wires to HRW to pin 5 .
Existing green wire to pin 4.
Momentary make switch from green wire on pin 4 to pin 1.
Connect an in-line 15A fuse to the IGN accessory brown wire at the fuse box. Run a thick brown wire from this in-line fuse to pin 3 on the relay.
Technically a better solution as the HRW current is kept out of the IGN ON fused circuit and the IGN switch so more volts at the HRW as well.
As the relay control cannot operate until the ignition is ON you won't drain the battery unless there is a relay fault.
The relay will drop out if the Ignition is turned off.
If you need an "HRW ON" light indicator, connect between Pin 5 and Pin 2 on the relay.

Fuses are always good but they do drop volts at high current.

I have corrected my earlier post on which connection is which btw.

Tony.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 7:25 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1909
Location: Hampshire
Thanks Tony, I like your second solution.

Forgot to order a warning lamp - damn!


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 8:32 pm 
Offline
TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7013
Location: Highley, Shropshire
The second white/black wire out of the switch goes to the warning light in the dash!

Steve

Edit, well at least it does on the later cars with the switch in the dash. And again, on later cars the second green goes on to power the rev counter, the seat belt warning light and oddly, the indicator flasher unit via the hazard light switch (I think this is to turn off the indicator unit if the hazards are deployed whilst the engine is running)

I know all this because I have stripped my 78 Sprint main and dash looms and rejigged them to incorporate more fuses (14 in the main board in the original position, 6 of which are ignition controlled, plus 6 in an auxilliary board for headlights, spotlights and horn) and 10 relays. As a result, I have had to trace every single wire and a lot of them go in very counter intuitive directions!

I'm not being as ambitious with the HRW as you are James, I've merely interrupted the output lead from the HRW switch in the area behind the glovebox and inserted a 30A relay into the circuit. Simple but effective!

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


Last edited by Carledo on Wed Aug 02, 2017 9:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 8:49 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1909
Location: Hampshire
Quote:
The second white/black wire out of the switch goes to the warning light in the dash!

Steve
Early car Steve, don't have a warning light on the dash.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 9:07 pm 
Offline
TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7013
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Quote:
Quote:
The second white/black wire out of the switch goes to the warning light in the dash!

Steve
Early car Steve, don't have a warning light on the dash.

Yeah, I worked that out, see edit above! I'll check my wiring diagrams tomorrow (they are down at the workshop) and find out where it DOES go!

Incidentally, I have an early HRW switch in stock if you need one!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 9:22 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1909
Location: Hampshire
Quote:
I have an early HRW switch in stock if you need one!
Thanks for the offer, I just found a mom switch with an indicator light on it!

Checked my wiring diagrams and I think you're right, I recon it loops into the tach then the hazard switch. I'll check when I go to wire it up.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 9:32 pm 
Offline
TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7013
Location: Highley, Shropshire
The more I get into Dolomite wiring, the more I realize JUST how marginal the original setup was!

For example, the ignition controlled fuse (singular) The fuse says 35amps, but that is the surge blow rate, the continuous load rate is a mere 17 amps! And that has to run every fused, ignition controlled circuit on the car! On a cold wet morning, with HRW, wipers, brake lights, reverse lights on, as well as "normal" instrument and other minor functions, the poor thing must be stretched to it's limit!

I wanted to wire the indicators separately and put ALL the instruments on 1 fuse (I know they are originally, but there IS only 1 fuse) To do this satisfactorily now, I will have to move the voltage stabiliser to behind the dash and may still need to share the indicators and HRW or install an extra fuse and lead, not sure I can be bothered at this stage!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 9:36 pm 
Offline
TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7013
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Quote:
Quote:
I have an early HRW switch in stock if you need one!
Thanks for the offer, I just found a mom switch with an indicator light on it!

Checked my wiring diagrams and I think you're right, I recon it loops into the tach then the hazard switch. I'll check when I go to wire it up.
Think it also feeds the choke and handbrake lights in the warning light cluster.

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 9:41 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1909
Location: Hampshire
Completely agree, that's why I want to take the 'major load' stuff that I'll be using over the winter, lights, hrw etc... and put it onto a seperate circuit to relieve the original loom of at least some stress.

I'd love to rewire the whole thing but I don't really have the time.

I have learnt a huge amount about automotive wiring though whilst dining this.


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 811 posts ]  Go to page Previous 128 29 30 31 3255 Next

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 22 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited