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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 10:24 am 
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All the straight forward bits are done... now comes the nightmare of extracting the head studs. Bolts were no problem... nuts fine. Studs I think will be entirely another matter!
Try talking to the car, be nice until you get stuck, then threaten to take to the butcher mechanic, leave alone for ten minutes then see if the pep talk has worked :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 6:35 am 
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Thanks for the tips Mahesh, I'll be willing to try anything I suspect in a while!
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Quote:
All the straight forward bits are done... now comes the nightmare of extracting the head studs. Bolts were no problem... nuts fine. Studs I think will be entirely another 8) matter!
Try talking to the car, be nice until you get stuck, then threaten to take to the butcher mechanic, leave alone for ten minutes then see if the pep talk has worked :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 8:49 am 
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I think what tends to happen is that the stud itself gets stuck to the head through bimetallic corrosion, I found that once I got the head off of DTR the studs came out without a problem.

So I think a lot of plus gas or diesel over the course of a week could be a good thing here and use stud extractors like these:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/pro57-4 ... actor-set/

As they fit better than the style that I have.

That head has been off before in the cars life though so you may be lucky.

Don't worry about breaking a stud, I have a few here. You can also get new nickel plated ones as well.

Good luck! :D


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 9:19 am 
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If I decide not to try and rescue the studs I'll just weld an over-sized nut onto the then and use that - it's my "usual" method of stud removal. I'll try "double-nut"-ing them to start with.
I already have a set of extractors like that James, I tend to try and avoid using them as they've squashed the threads in the past (and snapped the stud), If I decide I'm replacing the studs I might give them a try before the welder though.

Cheers, Sam

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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 10:43 pm 
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My experience is that after welding nuts on the headstuds they immediately break flush with the head after the first attemp. Double nut can be a succes sometimes but welding ended alway's in a faillure and leaving nothing left for another attempt.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 3:08 pm 
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My experience is that after welding nuts on the headstuds they immediately break flush with the head after the first attemp. Double nut can be a succes sometimes but welding ended alway's in a faillure and leaving nothing left for another attempt.
Jeroen
Hmmm, on Landrover and triumph 1500 engines I've always had good results from mig-welding nuts onto studs, maybe a feature of the slant 4 with the bimetal reaction between the studs and the head makes them prone to sheering off? I'll proceed with caution!

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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 7:36 pm 
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Somewhere in another thread there is mention of using wedges to loosen the head.


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 7:43 pm 
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Wedges?

What idiot would do that?

Oh wait hang on! :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 8:11 pm 
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I did look at the possibility of acquiring some brass wedges, but I'm not that rich. :lol:

I started with the easy stud, second back from the front has most clearance around it for spannering, it came out relatively easily with double nuts. The rest are soaking in plus gas as I can't play out late on school nights.

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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 8:42 am 
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I'm not counting any chickens here or anything (touch wood etc as I say it) but the second stud is on the move.... not out yet, but I can turn it a couple of flats!

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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 8:07 pm 
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I popped out at dinner time to my friendly neighbourhood nut n bolt supplier and acquired a few spare 7/16" UNC nuts.
Thanks goodness places like that still exist and carry things like UNC in stock (Whitworth are order-in only at eye watering money though)

Then I ground the head down from 11/16" AF to 5/8" AF and took the corners off slightly.
Image
That means in the confined space around the head I can double nut and then slide a 11/16" deep socket over the whole thing and try and un-fasten the stud.

Head stud extractor toolkit:
Image

And that was that.... head slid off as I pulled the last stud out!
Image

So... on the one hand the bad luck of HGF.... on the other hand lucky that it came off so easily.
I cheesed up the threads on the 4th stud, I had to REALLY tighten the double nuts up, but I ordered spares from Robsport just in case.

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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 8:32 pm 
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Yes yes yes!!!

I have to admit that I've been worried about this!

Bloody good job there Sam!

Any indication on where the gasket blew?


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 9:02 am 
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Yes yes yes!!!
I have to admit that I've been worried about this!
Bloody good job there Sam!
Any indication on where the gasket blew?
Not had a chance to carefully inspect it yet James, in the 2 minutes I spent last night looking at it there was nothing obvious.
I'll report back later when I've had more time to inspect.
Cheers, Sam

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 3:30 pm 
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Well Done ! That 1850 head-off job can be a real pain. I did like you idea on double nutting the studs. As I recall if you remove the thick washer you can get 3 of the original nuts on the end of the stud to help locking it all together.


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 6:16 pm 
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Nothing definitive on where the gasket has "gone". It's not as obvious as other HGF I've seen on other engines.
I think it's passing between #4 and the small middle water port.
Image

Not 100% sure though, there's a couple of other possibles.
I checked the manual and it specifies 55lb.ft for the head studs and bolts - is that right?

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