The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 3:07 pm 
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Boy was that an oily water pump. I have NEVER seen one with such a bad oil leak. Wonder why? Was there any evidence of crank pressure or blocked breathers? I'd run it with oil cap off and see if you can feel it, or it may well come back....
Thanks Jonners, will do that when it's all back together.

Before I bleed the brakes I pulled both the halfshafts out to replace the bearings.

Wheel off, drum off and puller on...

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This is the puller you need, from Ian Gittings on eBay...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPIT ... 2749.l2649

If it wont go tighten the bolt with a breaker bar then hit it with a hammer it will pop off. Oh and be prepared for a bang!

Then you can unbolt the backplate, leave the brake gubbins on, you only need to disconnect the line and handbrake.

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Then you can use a slide hammer to pull the shaft out, sorry forgot to photo that bit.

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The one with the red tape is the drivers side.

Click on the photo to view the video, the bearings are completely shot, I'll just replace them.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 3:22 pm 
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So continuing the wheel bearing replacement

Pressed the old bearings off the shafts, took about 4 tons of pressure to make it move.

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Shaft looks good with no damage

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Pressed the new bearings onto the shaft to the specifications in the workshop manual. What happens is that when you tighten the hub up it draws the shaft through the bearing and ensures that it is positioned in exactly the right place to avoid extra load on the drum. Thanks Jeroen for explaining that! :D

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New oil seals in the axle

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New bearing packed with grease

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Install shaft in axle. You'll have to turn it to make it engage in the diff but you won't need a hammer to get it in. If it won't go pull it out turn it and push it back in.

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New oil seal and gasket on bearing retaining plates

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Install brake back plate, don't forget the oil catcher. Torque nuts and bolts progessively to 18ft lbs.

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Install hub onto halfshaft make sure it engages the key.

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Torque hub bolt to 85ft lbs.

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Done, just need to reconnect and adjust/bleed the brakes.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 2:29 pm 
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Hi James, just as a matter of interest how do you stop the hub rotating when you use that big puller please ?
Thanks,
Tony.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 8:20 am 
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Hi James, just as a matter of interest how do you stop the hub rotating when you use that big puller please ?
Thanks,
Tony.
A very big lever bar! All I do is get the bolt nice and tight with a breaker bar, then hit the head of the bolt with a large hammer (whilst standing to one side!) If you have enough tension then the shock will break the taper and the hub will pop off.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 3:54 pm 
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Hi James, just as a matter of interest how do you stop the hub rotating when you use that big puller please ?
A stilson and a trolley jack handle works:
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 4:28 pm 
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That's a better idea! :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 11:26 am 
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:lol: Leverage the synergies, going forward.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 12:30 pm 
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That's a better idea! :lol:
I have a confession to make.... I'm a bad mechanic with dangerous habits. I use the air impact gun on mine and just hold the hub to stop it spinning (I do wear big thick gloves though)


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 1:06 pm 
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I have a confession to make.... I'm a bad mechanic with dangerous habits. I use the air impact gun on mine and just hold the hub to stop it spinning (I do wear big thick gloves though)
I've got a friend who uses a windy gun on coil spring compressors. Always makes me a little nervous..

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 9:52 pm 
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Quote:
I have a confession to make.... I'm a bad mechanic with dangerous habits. I use the air impact gun on mine and just hold the hub to stop it spinning (I do wear big thick gloves though)
I've got a friend who uses a windy gun on coil spring compressors. Always makes me a little nervous..
I've got a friend like that, a pro who should know better! He USED to use a windy gun on MY spring compressors, till he nearly lost an arm doing it, mainly from not being bothered to change to the right cups, rather than just use of the airgun itself, it must be said.

Most mechanics are lazy and take dangerous shortcuts on occasion, it goes with the job! These days, I try not to, which is probably why I have survived mostly unscarred from 45 years in the trade, but I was young and indestructible once! The knack with all these potentially damaging procedures is to stay out of the potential flightpath of heavy metal bits!

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
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Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 5:56 pm 
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You lot are crazy! :lol:

It scared me enough when it popped off after being hit with a hammer, it didn't even go that far, erm... about 10cm!

Spring compressors scare the crap out of me the most, I have a hydraulic one and I hate using it!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 11:16 pm 
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You lot are crazy! :lol:
We have Dolomites! Your point is???????

In extreme cases, i've seen pullers like that go 20 feet!

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 9:52 am 
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Yes this is true, it's a mental condition and highly contagious! :lol:

Back to RUK, I just couldn't get the original to seal around the back bolt so worried that the stat housing may have a hairline crack in that area I swapped it for DTR's which is the same, a new gasket, some Loctite 5660 and we are weep free. Thanks to Ian who is sending me a replacement to go back on DTR.

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I have also bled the brakes and adjusted the front OS wheel bearing. I still cannot get over the difference that the rear wheel bearings have made, she cruises at an indicated 70 down the M3 beautifully.

The other thing to mention is that a I had the engine out with the converter I took the time to drain the oil from the box and converter and fill it with fresh top quality AQF Mineral fluid. Now the box behaves so much better and so much more predictably. I need to drain a tiny bit off as I overfilled it slightly when topping up (haven't driven it in fear of blowing any seals!). So sorry Dave (Toledo Man) but I think that Car Plan Fluid that you use is not good at all.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 5:51 pm 
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Hi James, Its probably worth hanging on to the old housing . If it does have a crack in it it can probably be Lumiwelded. I've done this before on a couple of components.
Tony.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 11:10 am 
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She made the journey back to her new home in good time and without hitch (230 miles, about 4 hours)

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She's marked her territory in the garage with a small coolant leak from the T piece in the bottom hose, so I'll nip that up when I have 5 minutes and top up the coolant.


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