The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 12:09 pm 
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Fantastic work, the pics on the engine and box make a new car look old.

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 5:04 pm 
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The other problem that I had was that there was a lot of slop in the bottom pivot on the accelerator linkage. I took it out, drilled out the rivet and put it back together with a shouldered bolt and locknut, that has completely cured the slop. There is some more in the other parts of the linkage but it's ok enough to adjust it out.
Hi James, That's really good. It's most impressive how you get the restoration to all come together. The item about the accelerator linkage was interesting. Do you happen to know the size of the shoulder bolt you used please ? Is there a brass / phosphor bronze bush in that linkage. I have one to do on my 1850 as well. Is it the same on the SU carb'd engine ?
Thanks James,
Tony.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 5:12 pm 
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It has been a journey but we are finished.... almost! I will get the front wheels aligned this week and book the MOT.

Set the timing and tuned the carbs, tidied up the wiring and made sure that everything worked.

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Bonnet on... I will fit the headlamp surrounds when the headlamps are aligned. I have given all of the usual areas a good spray with some Waxoyl.

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I did get some rear seatbelts in the end, I can at least use it to ferry the kids around and put miles on it. I didn't go for black though, went for grey and they look great and almost match the fronts.

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Today I have done 10 miles just pootling around, checking everything is fine. Went to the garden centre, got loads of compliments! :D

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It drives really well, it feels tight but the engine pulls beautifully with a lovely rasp from the exhaust, I am being careful at the moment as it is still being run in but it just wants to go. The gearbox is a bit tight as it has been reconditioned so I expect that to take a few miles to loosen up, to my relief the overdrive works perfectly in third and fourth. There are a few squeaks and rattles but it's an old car!

I am sad to say that it is now for sale, the last 6 months have been a bit of a roller coaster journey but I am very proud of it.

I want to put 500 miles on it before changing the oil and filter and giving it another tune before it goes though.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 5:31 pm 
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How much? Could well be interested...


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2018 8:51 am 
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Very smart James, you cant beet an early Dolomite :D This my auto. Complete with lower trim below the doors, that some people say were not on as standard?

Tony


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2018 8:22 pm 
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The sill moulding is ok on an early car Tony, the late addition, 76 on, which you don't have, is the ally rubbing strips at the lower door swage line! The car looks fine to me, respect sir!

Steve

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2018 12:49 pm 
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Thank you Steve :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 3:46 pm 
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62 Mile report!

Both oil and water levels have remained static and both the engine and gearbox are starting to loosen up nicely.

Unfortunately something pinged up from the back of a truck I was following and has dinged the upper front valence quite badly.

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Whatever it was has scratched the bonnet as well so I'll have to pull this out and touch in the bonnet damage.

I am pleased it didn't hit the screen.

Back on track, I pulled the plugs to check the mixture and they all look good.

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One of minor problems that I noticed was the level of play in the accelerator pedal and the lack of travel. I had an investigate and found that the throttle cable wasnt flush to the bulkhead and the play in the linkage was causing problems.

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The problem with the cable was caused by the end being too long, this was cut down and problem solved that end!

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I removed the linkage, stripped it and installed two new slightly larger clevis pins, refitted, set the cable properly and I new get full throttle. More importantly the pedal feeel is so much more positive now, it has transformed the car! The pedal bush could be replaced but I think it's fine for now.

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The other problem I had was the rubber carb gaskets were starting to fail. The carbs are supposed to be bolted to springs to absorb vibrations, the trouble is that these springs tend to fail and the rubber gaskets then let in air. They arent really necessary any more, like fitting solid mounts to a Sprint I have removed them and made the correct thickness gasket and to replace them. The car runs noticeably better now, I checked the balance, mixture and timing again, no change.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 8:58 pm 
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Question....

Should I be worried about this?

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There seems to be some coolant coming from between the head and block.

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We are only 70 miles in to the running in period, gasket is NOS Payen, block and head have been faced. Head was torqued after the initial run in.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:04 pm 
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What did you torque to on the head?

I noticed the revision sheet in the slant 4 engine service manual shows a different sequence and a higher torque to the Dolomite manual I have:

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:18 pm 
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:-k

Thanks Sam

I would have used the torque in the manual, 45-55 lbf ft, I would have used the lower figure, checked the Haynes manual as well and it's the same.

Interestingly the sequence is different.

Torque wrench is a calibrated quality Teng Tools one as well.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:34 pm 
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What did you torque to on the head?

I noticed the revision sheet in the slant 4 engine service manual shows a different sequence and a higher torque to the Dolomite manual I have:

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That is a sequence to disaster.

James, looks like your head is pressing on the angled studs instead of the gasket. The only thing to try is loosen all studs and bolts and then retighten in the right sequence. Maybe you can have it watertight this way. If that doesn't help I think you need another headgasket again. Sometimes after skimming the head it doesn't fit properly. There are some differences in hole sizes where the studs and bolts go through on early heads. I had an early head once where the std. studs went through and slightly thicker competition ones not. That was never a problem with other heads so there are differences in the factory machining. If the holes are of the smaller type it can be the head cannot reach towards the deck enough and rests on the studs.

Best to try loosen all and try again. Not one by one but all like you fit the head the first time.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:55 pm 
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Thanks Jeroen,

I want to put some miles on the car next week so what I will do is a re-torque in the morning and clean off the block. If it still happens then I will do what you suggested, if that doesn't work then it's new head gasket time and check the studs.

Not worried about pulling the head, at least the studs should come out easily!! :lol:


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