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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 10:32 pm 
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TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

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Location: Highley, Shropshire
I've removed the N/S wing from my long term breaker and will be bringing it to Stoneliegh for sale. But it's in the "you won't find a better second hand one" category, being a replacement that was bolted/tacked on and VERY well undersealed and will be priced accordingly, you may not want to invest that much!

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 10:36 pm 
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Steve you're such a tease! 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 11:04 pm 
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I've got it's mate from the O/S too but that's still on the car, I was gonna get it off today, but snow and a 10" electric angle grinder don't mix too well!

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 2:26 pm 
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I'll start by saying a huge thanks to both Steve and Alun for bringing the wings to Stoneleigh for me.

This morning I starting stripping the front back to see how much needed doing. I was kind of hoping that there would just be some minor holes that needed repairing but you have to approach these things with an open mind as it can quickly snowball.

Which it did! :lol:

Started off by stripping back the 1970's paint job from the front valence, the outer valence isn't bad at all and should be an easy fix. The inner may be a bit more complicated but doesn't look to scary.

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I decided that the only way to do this properly was to remove the headlamp panels, the OS I just cut off as I have a spare but I was a bit more careful with the NS as I want to re use it.

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After starting to cut away the rust it became apparent that the eyebrows were way to far gone so these are going to need to be replaced. If you've seen my RUK restoration you'll know I am a big fan of the fibreglass eyebrows that the club does so a pair will be going straight on.

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The OS was much the same, this side the eyebrow had completely gone so with it all removed and rust treated it does look a bit more manageable now.

The silver paint is weld through primer

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All that is needed to be done is the inner valence repair, I'll do the same repair as RUK on the outer headlamp backing panels then when the eyebrows arrive they can be fitted, the outer valence closed off, the lower sections repaired and the wings repair sections grafted on.

Sounds simple right! 8)

I have got as much rust as I can out of the upper section of the valence, I have access here so I can easily spray some Bilt Hamber Dynax in there. That will stop all of the existing corrosion and prevent any coming back.

Rain for the rest of the week so I'll have to put up the marquee!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 2:53 pm 
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Just dropped off the head, looks good and may not require new valve seats, it will have new valves and valve stems though.

Also dropped off the bottom end for a balance and the rods to have new small ends pressed in. When I get them back I'll balance them again and send them off to have them shot peened.

The block may need more than a +20 bore, the lip on no1 is bad. But we will see, I have a spare block if needed.

The only thing is that this all raises a bit of a timescale problem. Realistically I won't have the engine rebuilt in time for the NEC. Not if I want to do it properly anyway, and you know me, I have to do things properly! :D

Not to worry though, we can have the car ready for the engine to be put back in when it comes home. I am going to use this to my advantage, I will strip off the Ziebart from the engine bay and depending on what is underneath I may give it a coat of paint.

I have a new back axle so I may change that at the NEC and refurb the prop instead.

It is going to be a great little car when it's finished.

Question, are all 1850 rear axles the same regardless of OD or Non OD. I remember reading something in Dolly mixture about OD boxes but can't find it.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 3:19 pm 
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Quote:

Question, are all 1850 rear axles the same regardless of OD or Non OD. I remember reading something in Dolly mixture about OD boxes but can't find it.
Hi James, 1850 rear axles are the same for both O/D and nonO/D versions.
Its the automatic 1850 that is 3.27 : 1 , the manual 1850 being 3.63 : 1

As an aside it looks like the diff; centre varies quite a lot between models.
1300cc is 4.11
1500 / HL is 3.89 (early models )
1500 /HL later models are 3.63 for manual and automatic.

So a fair bit of scope for higher / lower gearing.

Ref; is page 1H 02L of the 81 parts book.

HTH.
Tony.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 3:58 pm 
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Thanks Tony!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 3:47 pm 
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Quote:
Just dropped off the head, looks good and may not require new valve seats, it will have new valves and valve stems though.

Also dropped off the bottom end for a balance and the rods to have new small ends pressed in. When I get them back I'll balance them again and send them off to have them shot peened.

The block may need more than a +20 bore, the lip on no1 is bad. But we will see, I have a spare block if needed.

The only thing is that this all raises a bit of a timescale problem. Realistically I won't have the engine rebuilt in time for the NEC. Not if I want to do it properly anyway, and you know me, I have to do things properly! :D

Not to worry though, we can have the car ready for the engine to be put back in when it comes home. I am going to use this to my advantage, I will strip off the Ziebart from the engine bay and depending on what is underneath I may give it a coat of paint.

I have a new back axle so I may change that at the NEC and refurb the prop instead.

It is going to be a great little car when it's finished.

Question, are all 1850 rear axles the same regardless of OD or Non OD. I remember reading something in Dolly mixture about OD boxes but can't find it.
That's a shame, has nobody got a spare 1850 lump they could lend you to drop in for the show while you build the original up?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 4:05 pm 
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I have one in the garage and a head but I don't know if it runs. I'm not worried, I wasn't expecting to have to rebuild the engine but it's just one of these things that happens during a resto and I'd rather have the job done properly rather than rushed. You never know it may all be done in time! :D

The inner front valence is now repaired, that was a pig of a job and I don't want to do it again!

This is basically what we started with...

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The rust extended right behind the bonnet mount as well.

It's a bit of a pain to fabricate as there are a few radiuses and you need to remove the radiator support bracket. If you don't get it right then the whole repair looks wrong. My phone battery also ran out so I don't have that many photos! :oops:

After an afternoon of measuring, making curved sections, cutting and splicing things together, refitting the rad to line up the rad bracket and hey presto I managed to come up with a clean repair that I was happy with. The black is just seam sealer, I always put it on and it will all be over painted when the engine bay is done. Feel free to scrutinise my work when the car is on display! 8)

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The other side wasn't bad so that had has a small repair piece let in and sealed.

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I repaired the outer sections of the headlamp panels and test fitted the new eyebrows that Alun sent me.

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I'll need to be careful when welding here!

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I should be able to finish the lower part of the outer valence tomorrow then get the new wing sections on then the upper valence section.

I think I might book the MOT! :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 6:35 pm 
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TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2006 3:32 pm
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Great work as ever James and I really enjoy reading these threads and looking at the pictures.

I can't remember how you affixed the eyebrows on the previous project car?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 6:56 pm 
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Quote:
Great work as ever James and I really enjoy reading these threads and looking at the pictures.

I can't remember how you affixed the eyebrows on the previous project car?
Thanks Matt,

Yes I actually had to look back through the thread to see if I did the valence before the wings!

The eyebrows will be glued to the inner wing using tigerseal and have a couple of self tappers for good measure. When the outer valence is on I'll seal it all up with some more tigerseal.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 10:05 pm 
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James

This is handy as mines rusted in the same place,why are you patching the wings and not replacing them ?

Dave


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 5:02 pm 
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Quote:
James

This is handy as mines rusted in the same place,why are you patching the wings and not replacing them ?

Dave
I'm not really patching them I'm grafting to together which I am told is what would normally be done anyway.

Couple of reasons why I do it this way...

Because I can! :lol:

I like welding! :lol:

Seriously though it's easier and quicker to do it this way, I don't end up disturbing the rear seams then trying to get everything to line up again. The other reason is that because I can do it this way I can use what would otherwise have been a scrap wing from somewhere else, something that has a rusty rear section (which both have) or some other damage so I don't end up using up an otherwise good NOS wing.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 5:25 pm 
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Tantalisingly close now!

I am really pleased with today's progress.

I have almost finished the OS front end, there is just the outer valence repair to do at the top, I'll do both last I think.

Because the front end of the wing was pretty shot I decided to do what I did on RUK again and graft a replacement section on from what would otherwise have been a scrap wing.

If you want to do this then this is how!

I cut the wing in half at the top of the wheelarch, you need to cut the front end of the old wing off first to allow placement. Then you can place the replacement wing over the top of the old, line everything up and decide where you want to cut.

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Then all you do is clamp both wings together and taking a 1mm cutting disc cut through both wings, this gets your join line in exaclty the right place with a 1mm gap for the intergrips.

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The you can remove the old wing from the car and clean everything up.

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Once everything is clean and back to good metal you can mount the wing, adjust the position and clamp the seam with intergrips. Don't thing I'm being patronising here but the secret to good welding is cleanliness, especially getting this seam right.

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On this wing I have one swage line that doesn't line up, this isn't the end of the world this can be fixed. The important thing is that the major lines are correct and the wheelarch lines up.

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You can see the top lines up...

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Then all you need to do is to tack the wings together, take out the intergrips and check alignment.

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Once you are happy that everything is aligned carefully stitch weld both wings together. Take is slow, let one area cool down whilst you do the other and check that the panels are still flush with each other, this bit takes some patience. It doesn't look pretty but the weld has penetrated fully and neither panels have distorted.

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You can then take a flap disc and flat back the weld. Yes it will need a skim of filler but not a lot at all.

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Just need to attach the lower valence, I made a repair section so that both seams would join.

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Checked that the bumper fitted and was aligned properly

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I just need to dress the welds on the lower valence and create a seam here.

The passengers side wing swage lines do line up properly, it doesn't look like it because they have some filler on them but the metal does line up, this is going to work really well.

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 6:16 pm 
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Location: NANTWICH.
I have been following this with interest recently.......
One major question....... How come it never rains in your area :?: :?: :lol: :lol:
Cheers,
Tony.

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