The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 9:37 pm 
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Location: Filey, North Yorkshire
I'm not an expert, but for the Spitfire single rail box the mainshaft is different between those with/without overdrive.
So you can convert a non-overdrive gearbox to overdrive, but you have to rebuild the gearbox on an OD mainshaft, then source the adapter plate to mount an OD to the back of it instead of the tailshaft, then have an appropriate OD to bolt to it with the right output flange/speedo drive gear.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 3:33 am 
Hi All

Seems like these gearbox/Overdrives are just about unobtainable out here (NZ), if anyone on here has a spare gb/od tucked away in a shed that they dont need and would be happy to sell please let me know!
cheers
Alastair


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 7:55 am 
Hi Alastair sorry I don't come on here very often so I have only just seen this thread. NZ Toledos are quite different to the UK cars, most of ours were 1500 for a start and all used a 3 rail gearbox. You say you car is 1971? seems early for a Toledo and early Toledos were only 1300cc so are you sure yours is actually a 1500? A Mk3 Spitfire gearbox is not the gearbox you require as these don't have synchro on first gear. You really need a Mk4 Spitfire 3 rail box with J overdrive, but these could be very hard to find as they were only fitted for a short time before they went to the single rail box which has a fine spline and needs a different clutch. If the car is a 1300 it will have a 4.1:1 diff or if a 1500 it will be 3.89:1
If you want an overdrive box then the best option is to build one using your current 3 rail box and a J overdrive out of a 2500 saloon.
I used to work on Triumphs when Toledos were common and have built many overdrive boxes as conversions for Spitfires etc
I'm in Christchurch but would be happy to build a box for you or do any mechanical work you require
regards Terry


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 12:36 am 
Hi Terry

Great to hear from you!

I would be very interested in getting you to build an od box for me. I was just starting to think that getting one out of the UK was just going to be too expensive. Im very keen to get an OD box as its one of the features that I love about these cars. (triumphs)

Im not 100% sure that I have got a 1500! I was led to believe that all NZ Toledos were 1500 with the spitfire spec motor but I could be wrong?

Is there an easy way to tell if it is a 1500 or a 1300?

Im currently stripping a shell (too much rust to make it viable to restore especially in light of the fact that I have come across a rust free shell with out a gearbox or motor) and am going to use all the various part in another (rust free) shell which I am getting soon - make two cars in to one as it were.

Im really thinking about the gearbox at this early stage as I will need a new gearbox mount so was thinking about which one to get.

I just about have the car stripped and then will get the shell taken away and will get the 'new' shell down from Horopito

Any way Ill PM you with my details - maybe you can help me identify just what is is that I have - 1500 or 1300

cheers

Alastair


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:32 pm 
Pushing on with stripping the car - Have managed to figure out how remove the dash by undoing bolts under the windscreen including one which in the corner of the glove box. Have yet to figure out what is meant by the grub screws in the heater - and if they are what I think they are - how am I going to undo them, I would have thought that if I take the heater knobs off I shouldn't need to undo too much more of the heater to get the facia off leaving the heater controls in place.
Anyway will keep chipping away at it - haven't got a spare weekend for a while in which I can hire an engine crane and take the engine out so will hopefully I can get interior stripped out in the mean time. I assume I can take the window wiper motor out from inside the car? And the brake servo? Anyway it all looks fairly straight forward so will press on.
cheers

alastair


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 8:47 am 
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Location: Filey, North Yorkshire
grub screws typically need (small) hex keys to remove....

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:52 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
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Location: Highley, Shropshire
Not sure where grub screws would be! The heater control knobs just wiggle/pull off, then set controls roughly in the centre of travel and pull the crash pad off over them complete.

To remove the wiper motor (easier with dash/crash pad out) locate the motor mounting plate under the o/s corner of the screen, remove the nut from the centre spindle/actuating arm and prise/rock the arm off the spindle taper. then remove the 3 bolts that hold the motor to the plate. The motor can then be removed from under the bonnet, once the bolts are free, you can turn it to access the wiring plug and disconnect it.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 12:14 am 
I got the instrument panel out last night and tonight I should hopefully be able to get the rest of the gubbins behind the dash - heater, wipers etc etc out. All reasonably straight forward - luckily all this side of things is still intact in the car I am getting so hopefully wont have to remember how to put it all back together again! just replace anything that dosnt work

Im keen to put a spitfire rev counter in the car in place of the gauge that has fuel etc. I can get an aftermarket (smiths) fuel gauge and temp gauge but am wondering what I would do about the indicator lights.

I wonder if the 'pizza pie' round light cluster as found in the stag could be an idea. It has the indicators, a choke light and the ignition light and I cant remember what else. I wonder if there is room for it together with the fuel and temp gauge. I could always put the gauges under the dash if need be

I had a look at the commission plate as I realized I didn't actually know when this was made. I was told it was made in 1971 but am told that is too early for it to be a 1500 (which it is)

The commission number is ADS 10890 DL.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 6:21 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2012 2:08 am
Posts: 386
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
The New Zealand registered Toledo with the commission number ADS10625DL relates to a 1974 Toledo 1500. The New Zealand registered Toledo with the commission number ADS10753 PL also relates to a 1974 Toledo 1500.

If you were to enter your registration information into the website www.carjam.co.nz, which you may have already done, it will show the commission number as the chassis number and will tell you when the car was first registered in New Zealand and will give you a whole lot of other information as well.

I think you will find that your car, with the commission number you have shown, is a later car than the two shown above.

Robert


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 10:35 pm 
unfortunately don't have the registration details for the car. I bought it unregistered - good to at least know what year it is though


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 12:59 am 
A friend and I got the engine/gearbox out in the weekend (with help from my very enthusiastic 6 yr old daughter) with out too much trouble, the only casualty was a broken exhaust / exhaust pipe stud which should be easy enough to replace.

Im probably going to put the engine and gearbox (apart from giving it all a good clean) aside for the mean time until I get rid of the old shell and get the new shell down.

Im not sure what approach to take with the motor and gearbox. It seems to turn over OK and I wonder if I should just drop it into the new shell with out mucking about with it too much and hope that its all ok and good to go.

Prior to doing that I might put it on the engine stand and just drop the sump off it and see if there anything to untoward in there. Its a bit of a risk but I think the motor is on OK condition and I'd rather not muck it about too much if it runs ok. Ive turned it ok before but haven't had it running


The list of mods I would like to make to the motor is as long as my arm however the budget is isnt! What are the mod(s) I can make to the motor that is going to deliver the most bang for the buck? Would that be a decent exhaust manifold/system ? Decent carb? I understand the club produces a decent extractor manifold for the 1500.

In general I think I will get the car running in standard form first and then slowly develop it as funding allows. The exception to this maybe getting the overdrive put on the gearbox.
cheers
Alastair


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 5:01 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 5:05 am 
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2018 2:36 am 
Ive created a spreadsheet of what im going to do the Toledo - its divided into "initial stuff to get the car up and running" and "further developments"

A few questions......

I want want to put 175 tyres on the car what triumph (or MG etc) wheel options are there? Will 175 tyres fit on standard toledo rims? Further down the track it will get minilites but for now I'm after the cheapest option.

Do I need to get an adapter for the screw on oil filter if I want to add on an oil cooler?

I've been told a 175CD stromberg carb will improve performance over the standard Toledo carb. Will a 175CD stromberg carb fit on the standard Toledo intake manifold or do I need a different manifold ?

What is the cam shaft in the 1500 Toledo? Is it the same as the one in the spitfire? What are my camshaft options if I want to up the performance a bit?

Is a the front anti roll bar a straight forward bolt on?

Is replacing the steering wheel with an S a straight swap ?

thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2018 10:53 am 
Hi Alastair I don't think changing the carb for a 175 Stromberg will achieve much. I doubt the Toledo cam will be the same as a Spitfire. I would go for a Mk3 Spitfire grind on the cam but you cant use a Mk3 cam in the Toledo block without fitting cam bearings. I think someone like Piper cams would have a 1500 cam with the Mk3 grind. Buy a cam on a new blank not a reground one. Fit twin 1 1/2 SUs and a manifold from a 1500 Spit and a free flow manifold with a less restrictive exhaust. Whilst you have the head off to change the cam it would be worth giving it a skim to raise the compression ratio a bit.
That should give you a nice boost in performance whilst still having a perfectly tractable engine around town
I don't think an S steering wheel will fit you need one from a Dolomite. Why not fit a Dolomite 1850 dash if you want to upgrade the instrumentation? A Dolomite front anti roll bar should bolt straight on

regards Terry


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