The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:25 am 
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Location: Ashington, West Sussex
Hello all!

I thought I would start a thread in the restoration section for my lovely car. At some point over the next few years, I plan on going through a significant restoration with my car. As many of you will probably know, I use her as a daily driver, which has taken its toll on the bodywork, and also the car.

I really love my car, I think she's a solid car that has done remarkably well through the years, and I think she deserves to be made to last as long as possible. I want to get her an A1 restoration, with as much rust proofing as possible, to get her in a condition worthy of shows for as long as possible.

Any advice will be greatly received! My current shopping list is as follows:

BODYWORK

- Front valance repair? (surface rust)
Image

- N/S front wing replacement (bottom edge filler falling off)
Image

- O/S front wing replacement (rust bubbles across top)
ImageImage

- Windscreen surround repair (usual corners)
Image Image

- O/S front door skin replacement/welding (bottom going)
Image

- N/S sill replacement (front and back holes)
Image

- O/S sill repair (rust)
Image

- N/S rear door replacement (damaged)
Image

- O/S rear door replacement/repair (bottom going)
Image

- N/S rear wing replacement/repair (damage above sill, rust around arch)
ImageImage
Image

- O/S rear wing replacement/repair (rust around arch)
Image

- Boot floor replacement/repair (O/S rust & holes)
ImageImage


- O/S rear valance repair (both rusty)
Image

- Get all doors and panels arrow straight with bodywork (is this possible?!)
- Full bare metal respray (highest affordable quality)
- Rust protect car (as much as possible)


ENGINE BAY
- Full engine rebuild: (as quoted by Rimmers - open to better solutions, looking to get the engine running perfectly. Refurbished head last year).

1 Piston Set - measure and adjust appropriately
1 Oil Pump Assembly - Standard - New
1 Main Bearing Set - measure and adjust appropriately
1 Big End Bearing Set - measure and adjust appropriately
1 Head Gasket Only
1 Sprocket - Crankshaft
1 sprocket - Jackshaft (as recommended by Tony)
1 sprocket - Camshaft (as recommended by Tony)
1 Sump Gasket Set - without Oil Seals
1 Timing Chain Tensioner - Hydraulic
1 Timing Chain Guide - Straight - Lower
1 Timing Chain Guide - Curved - Upper
1 Timing Chain - Standard
1 Oil Filter - Classic Gold
1 Gasket - Camshaft Cover
8 Cam Follower - Standard (check bore)
1 Thrust Washers - Standard Size pair (check bore)
1 Oil Seal - Crankshaft Front - Timing Cover
1 Oil Pressure Switch - Single Prong
1 Oil Seal - Crankshaft - Rear
4 Inlet Valve
1 Gasket - Inlet Manifold
1 Gasket - Inlet Manifold
1 Gasket - Transfer Housing - Rear of Head Plate/Jacket
1 O Ring
2 O Ring
2 Cambox U End Plug
2 Gasket - Carb to Link Plate
1 Gasket - Transfer Housing - Rear of Head Plate/Jacket
1 Gasket - Thermostat
4 Sealing Ring
1 hex oil pump drive

- Overhaul water pump
- Replace alternator?
- Overhaul/replace carburettors (fit non-obsolete air filters [1850 su's])
- Overhaul/Replace distributor (significant wear. Fit electronic ignition)
- Fit overdrive/replace gearbox. (Keeping 1850 engine)
- Check integrity/replace propshaft & differential/re-balance prop
- Check brakes/upgrade brake hoses


INTERIOR TRIM

- Replace carpet
- Reupholster seats (leather?)
- Make water tight (fixed by replacing windscreen rubber?)
- Varnish door cappings and dashboard
- Replace parcel shelf and card surround/fit radio


GLASS

- Replace rubbers (are quarter light rubbers available?)
- Source working rear de-mister glass

EXTERIOR TRIM

- remove (maybe replace?) vinyl D pillar
ImageImage


Now obviously, I realise how substantial this is! I have no idea the time frame I would be looking at. I have ball-park figures in my mind for cost, but does anyone have a rough estimate in their minds? Furthermore, who would I go to, to do this work? I would love to do some of the work myself - a substantial part of the mechanical side & trim I could do, but I don't know where to begin on bodywork.

Wish me luck!

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1975 TRIUMPH DOLOMITE 1850 in Honeysuckle (Nina)
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Last edited by HQentity on Thu Jan 04, 2018 2:03 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:13 am 
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Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Body work is probably the big money item. You can keep the costs down if you are prepared to take on the mechanicals yourself. With a bit of help and care even an engine rebuild is possible as a DIY job (paying a proper engineering co. to do any machining etc.)

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:36 am 
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Location: Ashington, West Sussex
Yes this is what I thought, but I think it would be worth it. I have been deciding whether or not to go for it for about 2 years, and I think it will be the right decision. I couldn't bear to get rid of her, and she is rotting quite rapidly!

Last year (with a great deal of help from MIGwelder I'll add!) I changed the head gasket, so I could figure out some mechanical stuff, certainly. I think the way to go would be to try and do it, then ask for help later! :lol:

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1975 TRIUMPH DOLOMITE 1850 in Honeysuckle (Nina)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:42 am 
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Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
I'd look at some "keep it running, stop it rotting" repairs and work for now.
See if you can get somebody to do some repairs on the worst rot areas, get some waxoyl (or similar) injected into any body cavities you can get to. Get some rust-killer type primer, clean up the rust areas and then over-spray them with rattle cans.
It won't look concourse, but it'll slow the progress of the rot.
(I'm in a similar position with the Spitfire right now... slowing down the problems until I have time/money to do a proper restoration)

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:40 pm 
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Quote:
Hello all!

I thought I would start a thread in the restoration section for my lovely car. At some point over the next few years, I plan on going through a significant restoration with my car. As many of you will probably know, I use her as a daily driver, which has taken its toll on the bodywork, and also the car.

I really love my car, I think she's a solid car that has done remarkably well through the years, and I think she deserves to be made to last as long as possible. I want to get her an A1 restoration, with as much rust proofing as possible, to get her in a condition worthy of shows for as long as possible.

If you are going to all this trouble and expense ( bare-metalling ! ) will it still be a daily driver afterwards. ? When I had SWK done it was with the proviso that it could still be a daily driver. You know: the supermaket scrapes; the stone chips; the winter salt rust-on-the-bumpers.
Will you have an alternative transport while its being worked on ?

Any advice will be greatly received! My current shopping list is as follows:

BODYWORK

- Front valance repair? (surface rust)
- N/S front wing replacement (bottom edge filler falling off)
- O/S front wing replacement (rust bubbles across top) Brand new wing £300
- Windscreen surround repair (usual corners)
- N/S front door skin replacement/welding (bottom going) Club panels for these and the following + fitting...
- N/S sill replacement (front and back holes)
- O/S sill replacement/repair (front holes)
- N/S rear door replacement (damaged)
- O/S rear door skin replacement/repair (bottom going)
- N/S rear wing replacement/repair (damage above sill, rust around arch) Arch panels are around but scarce.
- O/S rear wing replacement/repair (rust around arch) Ditto
- Boot floor replacement/repair (O/S rust & holes) Tricky depending which bit it is; Original rear valence are still available but don't cover the complete boot floor They only go round as far as the boot seam.
- O/S rear valance repair (both rusty)

- Get all doors and panels arrow straight with bodywork (is this possible?!)
- Full bare metal respray (highest affordable quality) This is the £££££ bit. How long is a piece of string
- Rust protect car (as much as possible)

ENGINE BAY
- Full engine rebuild: (as quoted by Rimmers - open to better solutions, looking to get the engine running perfectly. Refurbished head last year).
Here are some rough prices from Oselli Engineering. I've used them on both my old Sprint and the MGB. They are good but expensive and long lead times.
http://www.oselli.com/service/engineering

Have a modicum of flywheel lightening, and certainly engine balancing. Now I remember we found your flywheel had been installed 30 degrees out. So a good time to rectify that.

1 Piston Set - Oversize +0.040 - 1850 I remember when we had the head off we found the SS engine number ( just like mine ) It may already have a 40 thou overbore. Would need measuring. In which case liner installation is one solution.
1 Oil Pump Assembly - Standard - New
1 Main Bearing Set - Standard Size Again ; same problem it may already be at least 10 thou under. Needs measuring
1 Big End Bearing Set - Standard Size Ditto
1 Head Gasket Only
1 Sprocket - Crankshaft How about jackshaft sprocket and cam sprocket as well. Maybe the very first thing to do is have the jackshaft and its bore checked. No point in doing any overbore and new pistons if this is well worn.
1 Sump Gasket Set - without Oil Seals
1 Timing Chain Tensioner - Hydraulic Check on the quality of this part. Certainly Sprint's are alleged to have a problem.
1 Timing Chain Guide - Straight - Lower
1 Timing Chain Guide - Curved - Upper
1 Timing Chain - Standard
1 Oil Filter - Classic Gold
4 Exhaust Valve Didn't we get 4 new exhaust valves last spring ? How much mileage have you done ?
1 Gasket - Camshaft Cover
8 Cam Follower - Standard First get an engine rebuilder to check the bore
1 Thrust Washers - Standard Size pair Ditto They may already be oversize
1 Oil Seal - Crankshaft Front - Timing Cover
1 Oil Pressure Switch - Single Prong
1 Oil Seal - Crankshaft - Rear
4 Inlet Valve
1 Gasket - Inlet Manifold
1 Gasket - Inlet Manifold
8 Valves Guide - Standard Yours were restored last Spring. Have you done much mileage ?
1 Gasket - Transfer Housing - Rear of Head Plate/Jacket
1 O Ring
8 Valve Spring Ditto
2 O Ring
2 Cambox U End Plug
2 Gasket - Carb to Link Plate
1 Gasket - Transfer Housing - Rear of Head Plate/Jacket
1 Gasket - Thermostat
4 Sealing Ring
No mention of the hex oil pump drive. This is worth replacing


- Overhaul water pump
- Replace alternator?
- Overhaul/replace carburettors (fit non-obsolete air filters [1850 su's]) Which ones do you have in mind as I'm interested as well
- Overhaul/replace loom (is this advisable?) Look at the 1/4in spade connectors. Are they separating from the pvc ?
- Overhaul/Replace distributor (significant wear. Fit electronic ignition) Can the Distributor Doctor do an A.C. Delco dissy ?
- Fit overdrive/replace gearbox. (Keeping 1850 engine) . Ah ! Another hen's teeth item . If you can find one and find the parts to restore it then go for it . Budget on £375 for an overdrive refurbish . Lots of parts NLA as I am finding.
- Check integrity/replace propshaft & differential. If doing an O/D conversion you'll need an O/D prop. I wouldn't go for a replacement prop; . Replace the U.J's the centre bearing and re-balance.
As regards the diff; is yours noisy ? They do last quite well.
- Check brakes/upgrade brake hoses

INTERIOR TRIM

- Replace carpet
- Reupholster seats (leather?)
- Make water tight (replace windscreen rubber?) This will naturally be replaced at the bare-matalling stage.
- Varnish door cappings and dashboard
- Replace parcel shelf and card surround/fit radio

GLASS

- Replace rubbers (are quarter light rubbers available?)
- Source working rear de-mister glass 2nd hand available from time to time. £50 seems to be the going rate

EXTERIOR TRIM

- remove (maybe replace?) vinyl D pillar

Now obviously, I realise how substantial this is! I have no idea the time frame I would be looking at. I have ball-park figures in my mind for cost, but does anyone have a rough estimate in their minds? Furthermore, who would I go to, to do this work? I would love to do some of the work myself - a substantial part of the mechanical side & trim I could do, but I don't know where to begin on bodywork.

Wish me luck!
Hi Kyle,
An interesting project. I've starting annotising your questions with my thoughts.
HTH,
Tony.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:47 pm 
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Hiya Tony, thanks for the wonderful input. In terms of this write up, that is exactly the response I needed. The 'ENGINE BAY' rebuild list was simply a copy and paste from Rimmers, which ironically I took over a year ago before your wonderful work last spring on the head. So you are correct, yes, much of the work will NOT need to be done. Tomorrow I will remove some points and add some pictures to the post. I would like to sort out the timing chain & look at the bearing sets, but beyond that my knowledge for what needs to be done is zero. The car I would guess has about 85,000-90,000 miles at this point, but that engine may have less, being an 'SS' number? I have added about 10,000 miles since the work you did.
Quote:
Quote:

If you are going to all this trouble and expense ( bare-metalling ! ) will it still be a daily driver afterwards. ? When I had SWK done it was with the proviso that it could still be a daily driver. You know: the supermaket scrapes; the stone chips; the winter salt rust-on-the-bumpers.
Will you have an alternative transport while its being worked on ?
My plan was to continue to use it, yes. If I have a choice between buying a new car and restoring an old one for my daily drive, I pick restoring. I'll try not to cry when she has something happen! I would buy Jesses old car as she replaced hers, so I would have transport as mine was restored.

- Overhaul/replace carburettors (fit non-obsolete air filters [1850 su's]) Which ones do you have in mind as I'm interested as well
I believe I was originally looking at overhauling the carbs & fitting pancake-style K&N's? But i haven't researched at all, any idea what sort of life K&N's have?

- Overhaul/replace loom (is this advisable?) Look at the 1/4in spade connectors. Are they separating from the pvc ?
I will check tomorrow, but I don't think so.

- Overhaul/Replace distributor (significant wear. Fit electronic ignition) Can the Distributor Doctor do an A.C. Delco dissy ?
Again, I was planning to use Rimmers just because I know they had recon ones. But potentially?

- Fit overdrive/replace gearbox. (Keeping 1850 engine) . Ah ! Another hen's teeth item . If you can find one and find the parts to restore it then go for it . Budget on £375 for an overdrive refurbish . Lots of parts NLA as I am finding.
Yes, very much so. Potentially fit at a later date for this one. :/

- Check integrity/replace propshaft & differential. If doing an O/D conversion you'll need an O/D prop. I wouldn't go for a replacement prop; . Replace the U.J's the centre bearing and re-balance.
As regards the diff; is yours noisy ? They do last quite well.
No issues with the diff, more than happy to keep. No intention of fitting LSD or anything.

GLASS

- Source working rear de-mister glass 2nd hand available from time to time. £50 seems to be the going rate
I don't understand mine at all, but I don't think it works. The windscreen always clears around the wires first though?!

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1975 TRIUMPH DOLOMITE 1850 in Honeysuckle (Nina)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:00 am 
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You should be able to use the same prop, overdrive or no overdrive.
If you can get a reasonable od box budget on approximately £850 for a Mike Papworth overhaul.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:00 am 
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You should be able to use the same prop, overdrive or no overdrive.
If you can get a reasonable od box budget on approximately £850 for a Mike Papworth overhaul.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 10:37 am 
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Location: NANTWICH.
Hi, I can help with interior wood at a very good price and a professional job :D
Pm me email address for photo's when you are ready for that stage :D

Cheers, Tony.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 2:00 pm 
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I have adjusted the OP and added pictures of the primary bodywork I want to get sorted. Structurally she is great, but bodywork is crap. I took these pictures of the footwells too as an example of how well other areas are keeping:

ImageImage

Tony I checked the loom, I think it will be fine. I just want to start with effectively a fully restored car. I have removed the loom from the list of work to be done! :)

Many thanks for the advice on the prop, would I need to change anything to fit the box then, or just simply plug the o/d box onto the original prop?

Thank you Dollyman, thats fab! :)

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1975 TRIUMPH DOLOMITE 1850 in Honeysuckle (Nina)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 4:56 pm 
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You will need the o-d box cross member and of course its mounting. The front sdliding bit on the prop has always worked ok for me. You also need the internla stud plates to hold the x member in the floor. The mounting is NOT the same a a Sprint but a 1500HL one is the same.

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 6:26 pm 
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Thanks Jon, I will make sure to add this to my list for when I eventually find an o/d box! They look like they're in stock on RImmers, so I can't imagine they're as hard to get hold of as I've believed?

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1975 TRIUMPH DOLOMITE 1850 in Honeysuckle (Nina)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 7:17 pm 
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Some good advice on here already, but I'll add that if you are removing engine/box, its a great time to refurb the engine bay. Strip it all out and flat it down and get it painted. Just maybe me but a clean exterior which is great is spoilt by a old looking engine bay :). If you ever see my mediocre carmine sprint you'll be more impressed about the clean engine bay than anything else on the car. :)

Tony

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:18 pm 
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I can vouch for this Tony.. very clean :-)

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:25 pm 
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Cheers Rich :thumbsup:

Tony

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