The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Well no that's certainly true
I hadn't finished painting it at the time
'Tis done now and me other parts have turned up too.
A few strategic bolts are left loose on the new frame so hopefully I'll be able to get the ARB back in before the swap out, if not then like you say, I'll do it on the car.
Next Saturday is booked for the removal.
Easter? for the reassembly

Gonna split the engine and 'box to replace the cross shaft bushes etc. as I'm still not 100% happy with the clutch.
This is despite using a resealed master, NEW slave, braided hose, DOT5 fluid (not that DOT5 will make any difference, it's just to match the brakes), pedal box cotter pins replaced and re-shimmed for a snug fit.

Other jobs when it is all out is fit the starter from the red sprint as I know it cranks for England and the current one is sometimes a bit reluctant.
Try to fix as many oil leaks as I can. Gearbox nose or rear main possibly? Not sure...
Paint the block
Scrub the engine bay
Remove a few bits of rust in and around the bay, seal with POR-15 and spray back to body colour.
Fit a poly lower steering bush

That's about it I think for this little task

So that's the first of the big jobs out of the way.
I found a few little bits of rust more than I expected but now's the time to get rid
Both front subframe bolts were seized solid and needed to be cut out. The rears were ok.

All in all not bad for about four hours work, most of the time was spent cutting the exhaust off and rearranging trolley jacks!

Both the engine and gearbox are covered in oil and they've been leaking for a while, they should clean up quite easily.
Also one the rear subframe mounting holes has enlarged somewhat. That'll need fixing before I can think about refurbing it for the Pimento Peril.

Oh, yes and the cross shaft has been welded on the arm. I might change it for a new one

Bit more progress this evening.....

The dirty mess of it all













So lots of oil leaks to fix.







So far it needs Rocker cover, fuel pump, water pump oil leaks sorting. Probably gearbox top cover too.
And now the really gungy bit....





I'm guessing that is the real main seal leaking as it doesn't smell of gear oil.




So onto this little baby.
It leaks oil from the slot but not water.
The gears drive and jackshaft don't appear to be marked so a rebuild may be on the cards.

I have a rebuild kit from Tony Hart. The decision is:-

a: refurb this water pump fully and refit
b: just change the O rings and hope for the best
c: fit a NOS one that I have managed to acquire

Is there any sort of test I can do to the pump to make a decent decision on the best route?
The shaft spins with no noticeable float.
There was definitely no water leaking.
There doesn't appear to be any rumbling or rough feel from the bearings.

Cheers all

Disregard b) as its not the O rings leaking its the seals inside the cage.

If you are in a hurry then c), refurb the the old one later. If you are not, and given the number of oil leaks you have to deal with I'm guessing you're not, go with a).

Change the block bush while you are at it.

_________________
1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.

Rebuild that one.

Unless there is wear on either the spindle or jackshaft always best to keep the pair that have 'worn' together. Put a new spindle against a used jackshaft and it won't quite mesh the same.

Cheers guys, I didn't realise the oil was kept in place by inner seals

I'm now venturing into unknown territory...
The need to find and engineering shop
I don't know of any around here.
It might have to be a yellow pages job or ask at the local PartCo. for a recommendation.
If the former, what would be the likely category?

More unknown territory for me is Gearbox gaskets.
I've searched through the forum but it seems that most people who replace gearbox gaskets are usually rebuilding the 'box. This 'box is quite sweet really. The mount has turned to mush after the amount of oil that has soaked into it but that's an easy fix.
So, I want to change as many gaskets as realistically possible. Front and rear seals look simple enough, as does the top cover and o/d sump (obviously).
It's the three O rings on the three rails, the Gearbox-adapter-overdrive-output gaskets. How easy are they to change?
If I just unbolt it all will loads of bits just go flying?

In a word...no...

Ive snapped a bolt inside that holds the front cover on inside the bell housing...when reassembling too.
I was not best pleased as it had to be spark eroded out by a nice man at work. What a star he was and took no money for it. Boy was that really 20 years ago?

So be careful and inspect those bolts...

The front cover seal is crucial...

The rear o/d seal is doable but you need to undo the output flange nut which can be a laugh.
Make up a tool to hold the flange....long bar and a couple of bolts.

You can split the o.d from the box easy enough and change that gasket if you like.

Then the top gasket and I wouldnt bother with much esle...unless it was obvioulsy leaking.

Aligning the splines when refitting can be fun but comes with practice...

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

Colin, you shoud change your username to "Sprintsinbits"

Dropping the subframe will give you the chance to do any necessary work on the suspension & brakes at the same time. Working on the engine and gearbox is 10 times easier with it out of the car.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle

Thanks Jonners, I'll dive straight in then when I next get a chance.
I had a horrible feeling that all kinds of ball bearings and springs would fly out

Dave, check out the previous pics dude.
This looks like the type of thing you are considering on your car

Is that going on your green one? I must admit that I haven't read the whole thread recently. Money's too tight to mention as the song goes (heard it on the radio this morning as it happens!) so I can't do any more on Project Brown until I get paid next and then it'll be the essential stuff. (MoT failure stuff) Petrol's my biggest expense but with Brown runnning like a dream it should be a bit more fuel efficient.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle

Aye, it's for the Green one alright.
Bit more progress today, mainly on the gearbox/overdrive

I got almost all the crud off it and looked at the cross shaft.






So that'll need a new one, I don't trust the weld but it's been OK so far

Next was the rear end but this wasn't gonna shift it

Neither was this

Luckily Mr.Scaff did the job


Then on to the disassembly part









So I'm now at my first real problem.
I need to change the gasket between the overdrive casing and the dark spacer thingy.
If anyone has been here before, how do you get the spacer thingy off?
Even with the studs removed it won't separate.
Do I have to unbolt any more from within the overdrive casing

While it is always nice to see a picture of a complete and clean car, I always enjoy "work in progress" pictures and stories. It is always useful to know how things hang together and what they look like in pieces

Keep up the good work, it all gives me inspiration.

Blimey a man who just dives right into an overdrive....
Well done mate...
Sadly I havent ever gone any further myself....

Bet you are all shocked now...

Jonners

_________________
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

Too right I'm shocked

I'm debating trying to get the replacement gasket on by contorting it over and round until it fits in situ.
The problem is, whether it will rip and whether I can clean up the mating surfaces sufficiently first.

I think if I undo the four nuts that hold in the two metal support plates it will all disassemble.
This is where I think I might end up with rather too many parts to try and get back together though

I might have to actually read a repair manual for once if you really don't know the answer Jonners

I have a whole spare 'box if it goes tits up and also could fall back further again onto the red cars 'box but I'm hoping I won't need to.

The funny thing is, the whole engine/'box was so caked in oil and crap, I just wanted to eliminate as many potential leak points as I can. It may have never leaked from this position in the first place

Ah well, all part of the fun and if we learn anything along the way, even better

Has anyone else got through this stage before then?

Must admit I've never gotten that far. I was following a step-by-step guide in Retro Cars a couple of years ago until it said "you will need special tools .....", so I put it back together. I still have it but it was slipping, so I await the outcome of your rebuild. Keep the pics coming.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450