The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 6:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:02 am
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Location: London E14
Bugger :(

Proves it's a Triumph though :mrgreen:

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1978 Triumph Dolomite Sprint (project thread)
1970 Triumph Spitfire IV (project thread)
1966 VW Beetle 1300 (project thread)
1962 Austin Mini
1962 MGA MKII
1965 Mobylette SP50
1985 Sinclair C5


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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 4:53 pm 
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To qualify Howards statement above 969 has been leading me a merry old dance.
Prior to figuring out what is wrong with the top end of the engine I decided to take a look at some of my leaks; first one was easy leaky diff casing. Made and fitted a new gasket. The gaskets on the market are way to thin, the bolt holes in the diff cover swage out over time and the thin gaskets don't take up the gap.

I had an hydraulic fluid leak underneath, I had changed the slave cylinder following the first leak so it wasn't that. And there were no leaky brake lines. It turned out to be the clutch master cylinder leaking inside the car. Fluid running down from the back of the clutch pedal and coming out via one of the tunnel screws.
The master cylinder was NOS, as ever mouldy rubbers. So I rebuilt the master cylinder.

When I came to bleed the clutch it bled but the piston wouldn't thrust, then I spotted it. The back of the slave cylinder carrier was going "up & down" instead of the piston going "in & out". The rear bolt on the slave cylinder carrier had pulled its thread.

So, out came the gearbox & both "slave carrier" bolt holes were fitted with steel inserts. You can see the "inserted holes" here. Compare with the rear ones that just screw into the aluminium casing.

Image

Gearbox put back in ......... Cautionary tale here. Once back in the gearbox was locked solid. When I put the top back onto the gearbox I had stupidly not checked that the "reverse gate" was relocated. It had dropped into reverse while in 1st, hey presto gearbox locked. You can see what should go where here. If you ever have the top off of your gearbox make sure "the reverse gate is slotted in".

Image

So out came the gearbox again sort out the "reverse gate" gearbox back in again.

Sorry tale this; I now find that the lower bolt holding the exhaust downpipe support bracket has a pulled thread.

No choice but gearbox out again and off to get another steel insert, rear extension had to come off this time.

Image

And the offending hole, the one with the missing thread is the one with no bolt.

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I'll get this insert tomorrow, get the gearbox back in and then maybe I can sort out the engine issues.

Mart, one for you; no date on the side of this casing bit I do have 01/ 73 neatly stamped just next to the clutch release arm.

Image

Anyway hopefully I can get on with the engine later this week & drive this thing.


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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 10:06 am 
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Location: Glasgow
Mike, you have the patience of a saint.

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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 10:55 am 
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Just gotta keep smiling Calum, keep smiling.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:15 pm 
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I'm not going to go into the gearbox just yet; other than to say that 969 is currently fitted with my rebuilt overdrive gearbox.
I had to take the other one to pieces to fix the duff threads.
The mild steel exhaust also fixed the resonance, I'll cover that in detail when I get the car back together

I had the car on the road (overdrive was nice :D ) I had the smoke problem mentioned elsewhere, that cured itself. However, I still had the tap,tap,tap of that noisy tappet. I had planned & set a date to re set the clearances but before I got to do it circumstances took a new turn.
I was driving through Kendal when suddenly the tap, tap became a whole new drama. All hell broke loose.

I could tell that something, obviously a valve was battering the top of a piston, and I could tell that it was stuck open because of the POP, POP, POP through the exhaust.
Not much choice, towed the car home, head off.

I couldn't really see anything when got this far -

Image

Once the head was completely off things became more obvious; firstly this "double hit" on the piston crown showing that a valve is nicely bent -

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The offending valve, one of the exhaust valves on No.3, the sticky out one -

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Unbelievably, I've never seen it before; one of the exhaust valves in No.3 had sheered just below the collets. You can just see it here the left hand one.

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This destruction cracked the exhaust guide, I have a stock of NOS valves & guides so the heads currently having one fitted. I'll update this tomorrow.


Last edited by MikeyB on Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:23 pm 
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Location: Bromley, Kent
Bloody hell Mike.

Do please go out and kick some litter!

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Martin.

2014 BMW 428i Convertible
2017 BMW X3 Msport
2015 BMW 320GT
1954 Austin Healey 100M
1963 Austin A40 Rally Car
2016 Triumph Street Twin


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:08 pm 
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Amazes me how quickly the carbon builds up. Damn shame to have to take it all apart, the cause of this is a mystery but looks like a rogue failure of some description

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1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
1993 Mazda Eunos Roadster JDM S-Special Type II
2015 BMW 118d Sport


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:20 am 
Bad luck. This is the sort of thing which gave the cars a reputation of being unreliable when new I guess?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:19 am 
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Location: South Australia
whoah

at least it is beautiful and clean to do any work on. Leaving the piston as is Mike ?

stu


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:26 pm 
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I'm going to try not to blame the car Alan; all 16 valves were replaced with NOS but they didn't come from a supplier, they came out of a box of parts that someone had for years. It was suggested that maybe they were "rejects from quality control" that were sneaked out of the back door. Then another mechanic freind said, "if you think that BL had a quality control department checking valves your off of your head". Fair enough.
Re the pistons Stu I've cleaned off the carbon and scraped back the little lips of aluminium with a razor blade. This should avoid any carbon build up that could lead to pre ignition, other than that the pistons fine.

This is the valve & collar removed from the head -

Image

It's a nice clean break, in fact it's right accross the bottom of the part number -

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A freind pointed out that this can be caused by worn collets and advised checking that when the collets & retaining collar are fitted loose to the valve they stay on and the valve does not turn in the collets, checked that & the "collet fit" is perfect and they grip the valve, it won't turn -

Image

"Lancaster Engines" have fitted the new guide and lapped the new valve. Their theory is that the valve was shock damaged when the part number was stamped. Apparantly if hit hard enough in the right direction they can break or a fisure can be created? I just hope that the other 15 are OK.

Anyway, I have a new guide and a new valve now -

Image

Image

So we'll reset the clearances and see where we go from here.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:46 pm 
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Mike, i think you were extremely lucky that valve broke there and not lower down the stem as the consequences dont bare thinking of :shock: any way hurry up i want to see some moving pictures and the road fund tax is running out!! :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:56 am 
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Location: Somewhere in the middleshire
:bluewave: What can i say a belated well done.Its a real credit to your dedicatation and an insiration to us all who are mad enough to try the same .just enjoy .I will go over whats been happening over the next few days and making notes to help me during my restoration.
However atm i have to put the major body work on hold indefinatly :( The funds that were put by have now been diverted to the treatment of one of my golden retriever who is on chemotherpy for stomach cancer.


Last edited by TLC on Wed Jun 15, 2011 12:42 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:41 pm 
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Fabulous car Mike well done.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:05 pm 
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Thought that you might like an update on 969; well it's back up and running. Following the discovery of the binding valve spring issue here -

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=18532&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

The head was stripped and dispatched to have the pedestals that the springs sit on within the head casting machined lower, we took them down by 3mm. It was only necassary to machine the exhaust valves. Inlets were to spec.
The machining required the replacement of all 8 exhaust guides. I had already previously replaced the inlet guides so the head now has 16 new guides.

I had also previously replaced the valves with genuine NOS items, during this work I had to replace 3 exhaust valves again (no exhaust NOS exhaust valves now left in stock).

So everything went back together, started nice running, good cooling but one distinctly noisy tappet, so took the valve gear apart again, I found this -

Image

The front most rocker on number 3 exhaust had a huge step in it and so did the cam lobe; this is the same valve that sheered. Now, this wear wasn't there when I put it back together so I can only figure that the case hardening was damaged on the rocker and lobe by the binding valve that sheered.

The gloves were off & I decided to replace the camshaft, the rocker shaft & all 8 rockers with new. Not easy, the rockers came from 5 sources on 4 continents. I would like to thank Jim Hayton, Alun Nicolas, Evert Willemsen etc. for rocker donations

Anyway, all now replaced & here it is going back together -

Cam in

Image

Rocker gear on

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& all tourqued down

Image

It's been worth it. The engine now sits steady and ticks over at 650 rpm, revs smoothly around the rev range and pulls like a horse. I'm very happy :D


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:34 pm 
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Location: Old Basing, Hants.
I may not aspire to be as concourse-y as you are Mike (hope that doesn't cause offence, really isn't intended too!), but the sheer enthusiasm, attention to detail and standard of work that has gone onto that car is definitely an inspiration to get out and crack on.
If mine can turn out even half as good as that, I'll be a happy bunny.


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