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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:38 am 
Hi,

Pretty sure i've heard this before, but just wanted to check - valve clearance for a new STR91 cam is 10 thou?

Cheers,


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:48 pm
Posts: 8446
Location: Winscombe, North Somerset, England
Here you go Garth...


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Ignore the arrow, that's the cam that I used to run.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. :boggle2: ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 9:55 pm 
Thanks Mart,

Is that a typo - 12 thou / 3 thou - is it meant to be 12 thou / 13 thou?

And does that represent inlet / outlet?

Cheers,


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:17 pm 
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Location: Winscombe, North Somerset, England
Yes and Yes. :D

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Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450


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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 12:37 pm 
Thanks Mart - I've gotta say the whole exercise is not going to plan...

http://forum.triumphowners.com/viewtopi ... 5068#p2371


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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 10:17 pm 
For our engines we use

Exhaust 0.20 till 0.25mm 0,0078740157 till 0,0098425197 inch

Intake 0.15 till 0.20mm 0,0059055118 till 0,0078740157 inch

Over all these years we never had a problems in this department.

Below a picture of a simple tool to push the exhaust valve spring down to retract the shim with a magnet.
Under normal circumstances the intake valves almost don't wear, and if you make the intake clearance to the max, or a bit below you will be fine for a long time.
The tool make adjusting the exhaust very simple, it grabs itself under the camshaft.

Image

Hans


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PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2010 4:04 pm 
That looks like a good little tool you have there Hans.
I do think its really good that you share these tips on the forum, I have no doubt these things will make peoples lives easier.
Neil


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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 7:36 pm 
Quote:
That looks like a good little tool you have there Hans.
I do think its really good that you share these tips on the forum, I have no doubt these things will make peoples lives easier.
Neil
Hans does make some lives easier :mrgreen:

Jeroen


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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:33 pm
Posts: 4727
Location: hampshire
Quote:
Quote:
That looks like a good little tool you have there Hans.
I do think its really good that you share these tips on the forum, I have no doubt these things will make peoples lives easier.
Neil
Hans does make some lives easier :mrgreen:

Jeroen
:woohoo: :woohoo:
Where would we be without your humour Jeroen?

PS I made a tool out of a bit of tube but found a big screwdriver works and a magnet to pick out the shim. But I am a bodge merchant.

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The lunatic is out................heres Jonny!


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 5:11 pm 
Don't wane be blunt, but my father had only a hammer a saw and a pliers to take old nails out, he managed to repair everything with it, Oh I almost forgot, he used sometime bob wire to. :D

Now back to the "screwdriver" just think how often it flipped of and the uncontrolled side forces on the valves, simply no good.

Actually this simple tool is a small piece of tube, drilled a hole in it about 2 inch from one side, with a hack saw (yes I learned something from my father :D :D ) cut 2 sections in the length of the tube away.
Now there is place for the rocker, and on the front to take the shim out with a magnet.
The rest you can think yourself, a strip of metal drilled a hole in on side a bit bigger than the round sections of the camshaft, cut on side open, (he again the hack saw :D ) took at some places some material away so the strip wont touch the head, and welded it together.

About tools, in the picture you see a part of a whole set of tools I designed and made to make out of worn out camshaft bridges good ones, next to be back to the works specific clearance of 0.05mm. after maching they are real in line, what is often not the case
One of the tools out of that set is the Sunnen honing needle, I had it special made to do all the 5 bearings in one go, cost over €1000.00 only that part of the tool set.
If you ever have the chance to measure in that department you will be surprised how bad it can be, have seen GOOD LOOKING camshafts and bearings with over 0.2mm play and not being round by at least 0.05.

Hans











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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 10:39 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:45 pm
Posts: 11179
Location: Middlesex
When I fitted mine I was told it was 9 thou inlet 10 thou exhaust and 106ATDC inlet peak no 1.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 2:14 pm 
Going to advance the cam timing on mine to 102 deg (inlet fully open) in an attempt to cure the flat spot between 2300 and 2900 rpm and bring back some mid range torque. I had a play around with the ing timing and by increasing the advance to around 40deg in this area at anything less than full throttle has helped a lot. This made the car very drivable round town, the only problem being a noticeable drop in torque around 2500rpm which makes pulling away quick quite a tricky game. i will post my results. Need to do it this week as i am completing in the Club Triumph autosolo on Sunday.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 5:36 pm 
Hello Paul,

What carbs are you using? When having the advance around 40 degrees you have a very bad mixture that takes a long time to burn. Normally a sprint with std or weber has a max of 30-32 degrees.

I think there's no fuel in that area. When using webers or dellortos are the progression ports the same or on the wrong place?

Jeroen


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 12:25 am 
Hi, Engine is running 2" SU carbs with fully mapped Ing. The engine is making best power with 27 deg advance from 4000 rpm upwards, red line at 6800 rpm where it is still pulling hard. The engine has a wide band CO sensor fitted. when i put my foot down over half way with the engine revving at 2300 rpm the engine will bogs down and splutters, the fuelling goes rich. i have tried different needles richer ones made it worse leaner one made it better but it was then to lean at full throttle.
You are right in what you say about poor cylinder filling. The rich fuelling i think is unburned fuel as a result I think of slow air speed/ poor atomisation of the fuel in the inlet track and the overlap of the inlet and exhaust valves. so i think by advancing the cam 4 or 5 deg this should close the inlet valve earlier and help prevent the fuel not being burnt. that's as the theory goes


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:47 pm 
Hello Paul,

When going leaner, is it better or is it ok at some point? When there is some point when lean and it is ok, then change the needle to the right one. Leaner lower and richer upper. Are the damper and the spring the right one?

To high fuel pressure can also cause a too rich mixture in low revs.

Jeroen


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