1300 brake upgrades? and more

[boybiffa]

Hi all

Adding to the modifications I have planned for the 1300,the brakes are something I need a little advice on.
1300 dolly with single line brakes. I would like to ask if it is possible to upgrade to 1850 brakes or even sprint brakes. (complete,servo,master cylinder and pipes etc)

Along with the brake upgrade question.
I would like to also ask, is it possible to fit an 1850 diff to a 1300 back axle? And is their a known 5 speed gearbox that fits the 1300 lump?

Thanks

Rob

[JPB]

All Dolomites - including Sprint - have front brakes the same across the range, and frankly, I'd stick with the rears on yours which will have adjusters that don't require the removal of the drums to set them up.
Yes, a diff from a larger engined Dolomite - Sprint excluded - will fit your axle, but why would you want to? It would struggle to pull higher gearing, would feel sluggish and would probably be less economical as it would be labouring all the time.
If your brakes don't feel as though they're working well enough, there's something wrong.

[DoloWIGHTY2]

^^^ What he said.

In all my years of Dolomite 1300 motoring I always felt the brakes were more than adequate for the power output of the car (58 bhp) and it would appear the manufacturer did too by using the same disks on the front for the model with 127 bhp. Even on the never ending steep hills of Ventnor I never had any problems with brake fade or overheating - I would have to question your cars brake efficiency if you feel they are lacking?

As for 5 speed conversions, I believe there is one on the market for the Spitfire which comes as a kit (using a Ford Sierra gearbox). If I remember correctly the kit cost in excess of £1,500.

Does this help?

[xsquared_uk]

Only guessing, but you can presumably get uprated pads for them which might help? Mine is only a standard 1300 but I have to say I've never felt the brakes needed upgrading and I live in a very hilly area!

[sprint95m]

Standard brakes are poor.

The easiest way to better brakes is to fit a Trackerjack conversion to VW discs and Ford calipers.
No need to do anything to the back.
You'll soon take the vastly improved brakes for granted.

[boybiffa]

the BHP output would be nearly double the original eg anything over 110bhp. (its not so much BHP im wanting its torque.

Its something Iv'e been looking into and reading upon. From the modifications I have planned for the engine I should realistically be looking at 110bhp at least.

so,wanting a more "top end" diff to give better cruising speed for motorway use so im not screaming the engine at 60-70mph(its just crying out for a 5 speed) which hopefully with the correct 5 speed gearbox and diff should increase MPG and a much more relaxed drive. But when the mood takes me on a nice road I want to have a little bit of an enthusiastic drive.

another reason i think? for having an extra gear (5 speed) so good acceleration is acheivable but when traveling on a motorway a 5th gear should give a much more relaxed RPM and general drive. with an increase in MPG.

The brakes have never felt lacking in anyway even when coming up or down hills and have never had any issue's with brake fade. So if the front brakes are the same across the range from 1300 through to the sprint, 110BHP or more the brakes should be Fine?

Thanks for the info guys.

Rob

[DoloWIGHTY2]

From the modifications I have planned for the engine I should realistically be looking at 110bhp at least

So you'd better fit a Sprint axle as that is the only one which deal with that sort of power/torque - then you will get the larger drums thrown in for free!

[boybiffa]

thanks for the info alan. But my new question about fitting the sprint back axle is.. with the modifications i have planned just for the engine, "would it or could it be developing enough torque?" as it will only be a modified 1300. suppose it's one of those"suck it n see" things

Rob

[DoloWIGHTY2]

I guess so Rob.

In the general scheme of things though I guess you just need to go for the one that is rated as high as possible and of course is the easiest to install.

Sounds a great project btw.


Oh....it was Jigsaw that do that Spitfire 5 speed box. See here;

http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/fivespeed.htm

[boybiffa]

thanks Alan

well il do a little more digging around etc but yeah.. the plan is,get parts stocked up over the coming months.. and then next winter,its coming off the road for a complete strip down,full bare metal respray with new wings,bonnet,doors etc and then the new punchier lump can slide back in the idea is to give it a little more fire,so.. it can be driven enthusiastically occasionally but.. can still cope with the stress of the motorway speeds.. but one major thing i would like to do... its get it handling much better.. just seems really "wallowy" my grandads checked all the suspension components and bushes etc.. nothing wrong.. just a really soft setup.. sooner have it a little firmer,little lower and much more planted to drive. (btw.. the car's staying pagent blue.. but with black goodies fitted should be pretty good when done.

As for that 5 speed conversion.. if its known to fit the dolly.. its going in! sounds like torture when traveling at 70-75mph it just screams out for 5th

Thanks for the link Alan.. will come in very handy!

Rob

[JPB]

Be aware that many different gear sets are available for the type 9, not all of them offer a 5th which is higher than 1:1, I.E. those built for the closeness of the ratios rather than having overdrive available. Yes, some have a 1:0.87 5th, but unless you find one that does, there's absolutely nothing to gain by swapping the Ford gearbox for your 4-speed one where 4th is 1:1 in any case.
You want more torque, more power and more relaxed cruising, there is one obvious solution that ticks every one of those boxes and gives you an engine whose life expectancy won't be compromised by stretching it like that; fit an 1850 front subframe with a Dolomite - 5 mains, OHC, decent cross flow breathing, no need to modify for unleaded - engine and buy a Dolomite auto spec 3.27:1 diff to give you overall gearing of 20mph per 1000rpm. Either fit that diff to your axle or use the axle complete and put up with having to take off the drums to adjust the rear brakes, no big deal but not as elegant a solution as the external, manual adjusters of your existing axle's backplates.

Best solution of the lot; sell the car if it's not lively enough for your needs and buy an OHC Dolomite. There is no shortage of people who'd be happy enough with a stock 1300, a car that's probably less commonplace now than the Sprint!

[paulsprint]

All standard production. Ie made by ford type 9 gearboxes are 1.1 4th. And a overdrive 5th. Usally 0.87:1. First, second and third gear ratios changed from model to model. Why not fit a single rail overdrive box from a spitefire. Easy job and the ratio is the same as a type 9 5th gear.

As for brakes just have decant disc's and updated pads. Ie ferrodo premium or minted m1144

[mbellinger]

The trackerjack brake conversion (PM him via this forum) will give you all the brakes you ever need at a price that will not break the bank, and using parts that are easily replaced.

I am working on a Ford Type 9 five speed conversion for the Dolomite at sensible money. The Type 9 is a strong gearbox with good ratios and an excellent change quality. The adaptor plates to the Triumph ohv block are actually about £80, so these folk who offer conversion kits at £2000 are doing very nicely.

The Triumph Spitfire overdrive box is an alternative solution that bolts on, but overdrive gearboxes are expensive nowadays (even needing a rebuild they seem to be £250 plus) and they are VERY heavy.

I would fit a 1500 diff as a more powerful 1300 will easily pull it and it will give better cruising. It is also more plentiful and stronger than a Sprint diff. Yes the Sprint diff is stronger, but in reality I doubt you will be going much above 100 bhp, and the 1500 item will cope with that. The Sprint diff is VERY heavy (see a pattern emerging?).

The order of modification should be suspension, then brakes, then axle, then engine last.

You would be amazed how much difference to your point to point speed just doing the suspension and brakes will make.

[boybiffa]

Thanks Mr M

well the handling is something i really want to get right... at the moment its running all original suspension setup (very soft and wallowy in corners) id sooner have it "cough" a lot firmer! and then on to fitting a set of different wheels. and go from their then.

Thanks guys

Rob

[DavePoth]

Thanks Mr M

well the handling is something i really want to get right... at the moment its running all original suspension setup (very soft and wallowy in corners) id sooner have it "cough" a lot firmer! and then on to fitting a set of different wheels. and go from their then.

Thanks guys

Rob

I'd start with renewing the shocks and springs for now. I imagine they're original and they'll be pretty tired.