Engine numbers

[MIG Wielder]

SS5269 2nd.jpg (109.25 KiB) Viewed 1146 times

Having got the head off my 1850 I've found an engine number stamped on the top face by the timing chain. It was under the old head gasket. Since there is no engine number on the top face of the block , between the carbs; I assume this is it.
It says " SS 5269 " which is a very low number for a 1977 car. There are also stampings on the lower edge of the block of " G, G , F, G " which all have a further oblique line stamped through them as if crossed out. I think these refer to the final dimensions of the cylinder block bore. The funny thing is that each piston is stamped with a letter G and then a " 62 ----> " stamping where the arrow points to the front of the engine.
The good news is that it all looks in lovely condition, with only a tiny amount of wear at the top of each bore.
Am I right in assuming its on standard bore still ?
Thanks All,
Tony.

[Gra]

I think you will find the SS means it is a factory replacement unit, Mig.

Gra

[Edin Dundee]

Having got the head off my 1850 ...
Thanks All,
Tony.

=D>

I don't want to hijack this thread, perhaps you could explain how you did this on another thread?

[Oli_88]

It actually worked then? I must admit, the boys were skeptical!

[Mad Mart]

The G & F markings are for the bore tolerances. If you look in your manual you will see piston sizes for both types.

[MIG Wielder]

Hi All, Thanks a lot for all your comments. So this looks like a recon; engine then. I'll ask Adrian about that ( previous owner). No wonder it runs so well after > 100k miles. It also explains why the bore tolerance letters are different. I reckon they insert new liners, rather than re-bore.
Yes, I have started a description, with photos, of how I got the head off. I'll put it on the Wiki page, probably next week. It was hard work and I've slightly screwed up in that I didn't get one of the the bores straight (as Jon was worried about,) so that head is scrap. Luckilly I now have a spare.
Thanks Oli, your guys did really well making up those special hole-saw tools . They work superbly. I needed all 3 as I mention because I went off line and into steel but at least the head is off without damaging the block.
The 1-line summary of the method is to get some special Starrett hole saws made up with spacers so they will bore 100mm deep. Oli has a very useful family firm that can do this, and is local to me.
In my case I had 4 studs snap off flush with the head. So 4 times as much trouble as my previous 1850.
The advantage of the 9/16 inch / 14mm Starrett hole saw is that it is a close fit around the outside of the 7/16 inch angled stud.
My next idea would have been to get some brass sleeves made up, 9/16 in O.D. and 7/16 in I.D. to realign the head / studs/ block.
Back on the road tomorrow with a bit of luck.
Cheers All,
Tony.