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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 11:03 pm 
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When I set out to restore my Sprint, described elsewhere on this forum, the sole purpose was to recreate a car which I could then drive and enjoy. I am happy to report that the car is being driven on an almost daily basis, summer and winter. It attracts quite a lot of comment. In part because it is an older car and is in excellent condition but I think too that it is partly the colour. It stand out midst the modern fleet which seem to be quite drab in colour, mainly silvers, greys, or whites or some other quite muted colour. People will stop me and reminisce about cars which they have owned and now long gone. This thread then will I hope, be about the joys and the trials and tribulations of running a Dolomite, where generally the source of all but the basic consumable items required to keep it running have to be sourced from the other side of the world. I don’t expect it to be too much of a problem and I do intend to keep driving the car for as long as I hold a current driver’s licence.

I start with a photo of the car as it stands at present.
Attachment:
20140817-4870Pw Dolomite Sprint.jpg
20140817-4870Pw Dolomite Sprint.jpg [ 182.67 KiB | Viewed 3100 times ]
That is the view we have today with the winter snows now visible on the mountains some 40 miles away.

The car has now done well in excess of 15,000 miles since the restoration was completed. That is represented by two oil and filter changes and numerous full tanks of petrol. I tend to fill to the brim each time I fuel the car so that I can monitor the fuel consumption and it has been pretty consistent around the 30 miles per gallon mark.

What has surprised me is the ease with which the car starts. The ignition system is absolutely standard, with no special spark plugs fitted, (I like to remove and change mine on a regular basis). The engine fires almost instantaneously although with the advent of winter here it occasionally takes several turns of the starter motor and full choke to start when it is cold. Time I suspect to change the plugs. When I ran a couple of 2.5PI Triumphs years ago I used to monitor the fuel consumption in those cars and acting on the advice of a couple of Lucas trained fuel injection specialists, change the plugs and points as soon as the petrol consumption went up. Those cars were very reliable and the first did well in excess of 150,000 miles before in the case of that car, somebody came along and made me an offer to buy it, at a price I just could not refuse.

Those cars were built here in New Zealand in the local assembly plant alongside Toledo’s and 1850 Dolomites. Sprints like my car were imported fully built from the UK.

Nothing major has happened in the first 15,000 miles which has caused me great concern. It refused to start early one evening – the starter motor refused to turn over, but I was able to bump start it and drive home. The problem was the wiring harness to the gearbox which had worked loose at the connector which sits above the clutch housing and in doing so had disconnected the feed to the starter solenoid. In the automatics there is an inhibitor switch which will not allow the engine to start unless it is in neutral or park. That same circuit is permanently looped out in the manual gearbox wiring harness which shares that same plug in the main wiring harness. A squirt or two of switch cleaner and the connecting, disconnecting and reconnecting of the connector a couple of times fixed that problem.

I mentioned in my restoration thread the early problems I had with the carburettors flooding. That problem seems to have been cured with the fitting of an inline fuel filter. I have changed that filter once and it is probably due for another change. I suspect I have cleared most of the fine rust that was sitting in the fuel tank and in the fuel lines.

Recently though I noticed that there was a slight weep of water/antifreeze from the waterpump when I put the car up on the ramps which I use when I change the oil and check underneath the car. I have been topping the overflow tank up on a fairly regular basis. The good lads at Rimmers who provide us with excellent service out here were very quick to post out the various seals and bearing which I require. I was able to purchase the several different sized o-rings required locally. The water pump will be overhauled sometime soon. I have in the meantime acquired a Porsche 924 radiator and will overhaul the water pump when I change to this slightly larger radiator and fit an electric fan. The radiator comes complete with fan switch but it will mean that I will have to fabricate some mounts for the radiator itself. Geoff – gmsclassics, has fitted similar radiators into his cars and has sent me some excellent photos showing what he has done.

There is a very slight miss when accelerating at about the 1800 rpm mark. I have changed the plug leads but that has not cured it.

I have still to replace a noisy wheel bearing in the rear axle. That has been put on hold as I am still short of four 7/16 wheel studs required to replace the 3/8 studs for the back axle but once I manage to find four I will complete that task.

A few weeks ago I picked up a very large stone which has starred the windscreen. It came from under the rear wheel of a large truck which was travelling in the opposite direction on the open road. It has taken the local windscreen suppliers several weeks to find a replacement. They have located one in Australia. It’s the sort of thing we expect just as the paintwork is showing the odd mark from stones and gravel being flicked up into the path of the car.

I have just recently replaced the left hand steering boot and will have the wheel alignment checked shortly. Just prior to changing the boot I cured a somewhat sloppy feeling in the steering by fitting one of my spare (second hand) intermediate steering column shafts. The top universal, the knuckle, had become quite sloppy; the victim I suspect of probably coping with spilt brake fluid when the previous owner filled the brake reservoir above it.

Those of us living in this part of the world are extremely envious of you folk living in the UK for parts like this column and universal joint assembly, are available off the shelf from places like Rimmers and can be delivered to you almost overnight whereas we have to wait for at least a week and often more, if parts are required urgently. Often therefore we finish up making do with what we have on hand.

I have moved the rear Rimmers Stainless Sports muffler forward about half an inch. When I installed it I fabricated my own muffler mount which bolts up through the floor of the boot up under the petrol tank and attaches to the back of the muffler. The muffler had worked its way back a little and was leaking through the slots where it joins the intermediate pipe which comes up over the back axle. I am impressed with this exhaust system, I was a little concerned that it might be a little noisy in the cabin but it is not at all intrusive.

I have one other task to do and that is to replace one of my new – only done 15,000 miles, adjustable rear shock absorbers. They had been fitted on the car in the early stages of the restoration and I suspect that the spear rusted over 20 or more years while the car sat because it had not been working at all and it is now allowing the oil to escape. It is unlikely that I will be able to find replacement shock absorbers in this country and my only option at present is to bring a set in from the UK. The cost of the freight however is more than the value of the shock absorbers themselves so I might have to wait until I find someone shipping a car out here.

The car has displaced my Sunbeam Lotus as my daily driver which has now been relegated to the back of the garage. While the Sunbeam has significantly more horsepower it is not nearly as sophisticated, nor as pleasant to drive as the Sprint. I have restored this Sunbeam and it sits alongside another car, a Lotus Elan, which I built from a kit years ago when I was living in the UK. I have restored that car too.
Attachment:
20140504-4806Ptw Elan Sprint Sunbeam.jpg
20140504-4806Ptw Elan Sprint Sunbeam.jpg [ 155.2 KiB | Viewed 3100 times ]
So unlike Mad Mart who seems intent on rebuilding just about every Sprint in the UK, I have restored several different cars although I confess that if another, restorable, Sprint came my way I would probably be prepared to do one more restoration before I hang my tools up.

I have acquired another 1850 Dolomite but it has a lot more rust in critical areas than what I feel confident to remove. I am tempted to do a panel beating and car restoration course at my local Polytechnic and use this car as my project. David - Davy67 went to a huge amount of trouble to find me a manual overdrive gearbox for this car and I owe it to him to see that it is installed and driven in something suitable.

One of my UK colleagues, Jeff, with whom I worked with in the UK in the late 1960’s shipped his Jaguar out here at the height of our summer just now past. He was part of a group of seven or eight other Jaguar owners who also shipped their cars out here. They enjoyed a month’s driving in this part of the world and then shipped their cars back to the UK again, laden I suspect, with cases of good New Zealand wine. While Jeff was here he and his partner Linda drove to this house and I could not resist a photo of the two rather classy cars sitting side by side outside my house.
Attachment:
20150201-5268Pw Sprint and Jaguar.jpg
20150201-5268Pw Sprint and Jaguar.jpg [ 211.08 KiB | Viewed 3100 times ]
I shall continue this running report as and when I think I have something worthwhile to say, something which I would hope, encourage and help others as they set out to enjoy driving cars from this Triumph family that out here too are now taxed and treated as something rather vintage.

Robert


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 7:32 am 
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Robert, you should just keep on adding to your "resto" thread. The "resto" section isn't just for restorations and they're never really "finished". There's always something that needs doing.

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Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:26 am 
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I like the idea of a running report separate to the resto thread, I think it will be a useful reference for others running a Sprint

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:59 am 
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Me too...

I dont really care where Roberts posts go though. I'd read them anywhere...

I dread to think what those Jag guys must have spent shipping cars to and from NZ for a months driving, but fair play to them.

If you've got it...use it.....:-)

On the plug front I went bosch platinum about 50k miles ago in both Sprint and Spit. They really do last ages...
Never a miss and instant starts still...15 years and counting at least.

The water pump seal is of variable quality. There was a type around a while ago that had an internal seal with a rubber lip against the impeller. These were excellent. If you have the carbon ring type that just seals direct against the impeller base, you may need
to machine your impeller. Some Stag guys have now gone for a ceramic type with a matching insert in the impeller with good results.

I think a few of us would happily trade our parts availability for your scenery and workshop.....:-)

Jonners

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 Post subject: Yes ...
PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 8:42 pm 
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:D What a fantastic read.
If ever there was an article for Dolly Mixture, this is the one Robert......






thanks,

Ian.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:01 pm 
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Brilliant read, both threads are excellent :D

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 1:28 am 
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The question was asked whether this car is subject to a WoF check, the equivalent of your MOT. The answer is yes!

Here is a copy of the last check sheet relating to the most recent inspection.
Attachment:
20150715Pw WOF.jpg
20150715Pw WOF.jpg [ 306.78 KiB | Viewed 2987 times ]
Here, cars which were first registered before 1 January 2000 are required to have an inspection and a new Warrant of Fitness, WoF, issued every six months. The rules were relaxed recently on new cars and cars registered after the date above. Up until that change came into force all vehicles here in New Zealand were subject to a six monthly check and that rule has been in force for as long as I can remember. All vehicles sold by a dealer here must also have a new WoF issued before the car can be sold.

The checks carried out here are similar to those carried out in the UK but there are some subtle differences. Here, if changes are made to the vehicle which modify it in some way from what it was like when it was delivered new then it is quite possible that the WoF inspector will not issue a WoF unless the work carried out has been certified by a registered certifier who will have been accredited under the scheme in place here. If a certifier is involved then following his inspection and approval, a plate is issued detailing what has been done which is then attached to the car.

I suspect that some of the repairs involving the replacement of rusted panels which many undertake in the UK, particularly in areas where it might affect the structural integrity of the car could only be carried out here by professionals.

Here, as an example, changes to the braking system are covered by the following rules. We can, for instance, fit after-market brake disc pads or linings, and make changes such as fitting after-market disc rotors provided – and I quote from the relevant regulations in force here; that the rotors i) are catalogued for the specific make and model of vehicle to which they are fitted and ii) attach without any modifications to any inter-related components: and iii) have no effect on the positioning or operation of the hub assembly or any related systems or parts. If you do make changes that affect any of the above then it will be necessary to have the changes certified and have a certification plate fixed to the car.

For those on this Forum who are restoring their cars pretty much as the car left the factory then here there would be little trouble in obtaining a WoF but for those who substitute different engines, or change the suspension (lower the ride height for instance), or modify the braking system and so on, it could become quite an expensive exercise for it would involve the certifiers charging for their time to carry out the necessary inspections and issuing the necessary approvals.

Most of us regard the rules as sensible for the aim is to ensure that all cars being driven on the roads are safe to drive. I was fortunate that the restoration work carried out on my car was all done many years before the current rules came into force. However I am always concerned each time my car is inspected. So far the inspector has not noted that my car has been fitted with the brake servo from an 1850 model Dolomite rather than the slightly larger version fitted to the Sprint. That has come about for the servo originally fitted to my car fell off a shelf in one of the many earthquakes we have had here and the plastic nose through which the brake pedal lever passes was broken and the linkage to the brake pedal bent.
Attachment:
20110205-1130Pw Sprint brake servo damage.jpg
20110205-1130Pw Sprint brake servo damage.jpg [ 161.72 KiB | Viewed 2987 times ]
I have been unable to find a replacement servo or the necessary replacement parts locally. It does not seem to have affected the braking on the car in any way but I remain hopeful that one day I will find either the correct servo or the parts needed to restore this servo.

I shall just continue driving in the meantime.

Robert


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 9:17 am 
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It is six months since I last posted on the running of HU 5000 which has been my daily driver except for a period of a few days when I removed the engine and sub frame assembly from the car for what is now the 8th time to replace a leaking front crankshaft seal.

In hindsight I should have replaced it prior to installing the engine during the restoration. I assumed, quite wrongly, that I had replaced it some years before when I reconditioned the engine.

The workshop manual states that once the radiator and fan have been removed that the crankshaft pulley on which the seal runs can be undone and removed. I suspect some have been able to replace the seal with the engine in the car but I would imagine that it would be very awkward to do so. The manual makes no suggestion as to how you undo that bolt which is very tight. I did it the easy way, dropped the engine and gearbox out on the sub frame, disconnected and pulled the gearbox back and using the tool that I manufactured to hold the flywheel, undid the retaining bolt, removed the pulley and replaced the seal.
Attachment:
20130520-4111Ptw Dolomite ring gear wedge.jpg
20130520-4111Ptw Dolomite ring gear wedge.jpg [ 149.56 KiB | Viewed 2832 times ]
Then reinstalled the complete assembly. All without any drama at all.

Some of you might think that this is a fairly long winded way of accomplishing the task but aside from removing the front spoiler, the entire engine, gearbox and sub frame assembly is dropped out without even disturbing the radiator. It is of course necessary to replace the engine coolant and brake fluid but I regard both items as expendable and which should be changed on a regular basis anyway.

The seal was well worn but it was replaced with a more modern double lipped seal, seen here
Attachment:
20151017-5507Pw Double & Single lip front crankshaft oil seal.jpg
20151017-5507Pw Double & Single lip front crankshaft oil seal.jpg [ 190.19 KiB | Viewed 2832 times ]
it is the one on the left while the one on the right is the standard seal The new seal was packed with grease between the two lips. The surface on the crankshaft pulley on which the seal runs was also lubricated with grease as well, before it was slid back into position and the retaining bolt retightened to the nominated 130 ftlbs.

The failure of the original seal had allowed a fine oil mist to be sprayed all over the engine for as it came past the seal it was flung up by the crankshaft pulley into the draft caused by both the air passing through the radiator and the engine fan, which on my engine is currently an early 1850 non viscous type. The result is a now a rather dirty and grimy engine.

I can report now though that the engine is not dropping any more oil and for these past few weeks the drip tray which lives on the floor under where it is normally parked, is dry. Long may that continue to be.

One thing I have done since I took the photo above of the Ring Gear Wedge is to remove all the paint off the face of the rear engine plate where it butts up against the block on one face and up against the alloy adaptor plate which sits between the engine plate and bell housing. It is unlikely I suppose but any variation in paint thickness might well throw the alignment of the gearbox input shaft out slightly. I wanted to be absolutely sure that was not the case.

While the engine was out I replaced the right hand steering rack boot. Oh so easy to do, when the entire engine and sub frame assembly is sitting on its trolley. Both boots have now been replaced. However shortly after I had put the whole assembly back in the car I noted that the boot on the bottom left hand suspension ball joint had failed. I have replaced it, taking care not to overfill it with grease. The boot is quite different to the one fitted on the top ball joint for it fits on a smaller diameter tapered shaft.

Over the last period it became increasingly difficult to engage reverse gear and I traced that to lack of lubrication on the cupped washer that holds the gear lever in place. I had cleaned everything in that area some time ago as I was working to try and cure the oil leaks on the gear selector rods and never bothered to put a smear of grease over that cupped washer shown here.
Attachment:
201509P Dolomite Sprint gearlever.jpg
201509P Dolomite Sprint gearlever.jpg [ 109.48 KiB | Viewed 2832 times ]
The surface and the surface over which it runs were binding. A smear of grease has transformed the engagement of all gears.

I changed the oil and filter recently too as the engine passed the 18,000 mile mark. It is now showing 19,000 miles since the restoration was completed.

There is still a list of jobs still to be done. I have printed off Jonners instructions on tuning SU carburettors for I suspect the mixture is a little rich for the car runs on occasionally when I stop. Before I tackle that though I shall fit a couple of the alloy carburettor mounts which I have on order from the club spares.

I have still not replaced the rear axle bearings and upgraded to 7/16 wheel studs on the back axle, partly because I am still short of four 7/16 wheel studs. There is a continual whine from the back axle which bothers me from time to time. When I get my hands on sufficient wheel studs then I shall complete that task.

I had access to a wheel balancer today so I balanced the two front wheels and in doing so have taken out the shimmy that was present just under 60mph. The car remains a joy to drive. So I hope I can report in a few months time that it continues to do so.

In the meantime another Sprint project has arrived in the workshop which has displaced yet another project upon which I was about to embark. It is summer time here too so there is much to keep me busy on the property as well.

Robert


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 11:31 am 
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Great read as usual Robert.
I'm sure you wont need to do the crank pulley nut again soon, but my in situ method may be of interest.
I just brace a suitable 3/4 drive socket with a long breaker bar against the chassis rail with a suitable bit of scrap wood.
Then a quick blip on the starter does the job of breaking the nut loose.

The grease on the gear lever base tip is a good one. I remember doing this to my car about 25 years ago with similar transformative results.

Jonners

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:43 pm 
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Robert

As quoted
Quote:
I was working to try and cure the oil leaks on the gear selector rods
.

As fare as I am aware those seals I fitted to the gearbox selector rod worked - no small patch of oil on the garage floor - to carry out a proper check I will have to remove the gearbox tunnel, I do have a inspection plate fitted but this was to gain access to the slave cylinder, I will check for you and report back with my findings.

Paul

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 10:19 pm 
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Robert

I have taken the inspection plate off the gearbox tunnel to check for leaks from those gear selector rods - I can comfirm no leaks, so those bearings seals worked a treat - much better fit than those "O" rings which are fitted now / after a gearbox has been refurbished. I have a picture which I will post later.

Paul.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 8:17 pm 
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Robert

Picture attached as per the status of the gear selector rods - NO oil leaks and No "O" rings used.

Image

Paul

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 2:20 am 
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Paul

There is supposedly 2276 plus folk who have registered to be on this Forum, all waiting to hear what you have done, how you have accomplished the near impossible and that is to stop those gearbox selector rods from leaking. If it can be done, and you have done it, then I suspect there are many out there keen to find out what you have done. I suspect that many of those who have watched their gearbox mount fail will have realised that oil leaking onto that mount may have contributed to the failure in some way.

I would encourage you to share with us, show us how you managed to do it for that photo you show above is superb, not a trace of oil anywhere.

Well done!
Attachment:
va type seal.jpg
va type seal.jpg [ 7.38 KiB | Viewed 2586 times ]
Now tell us where to go to buy and how to fit that crafty little vee seal which you used in place of the o-ring fitted by the factory. The drawing is somewhat oversize for something that slides on the 1/2 inch diameter shaft but it will serve to demonstrate what you used.

Perhaps you could start a new thread headed gearbox selector rod replacement seals or something similar in order to catch the attention of the wider Forum membership.

Robert


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 8:36 pm 
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Robert

After a quick search on the forum, it looks like there is just the two of us suffering from gearbox selector rods leaking - you have the details + pictures of these seals you want and where to purchase them.

If anybody show interest - I will post - but I doubt it very much.

Paul

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 8:55 pm 
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I'm interested :thumbsup:

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