The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

You can just solder to the original loom, I have done it and I have had no problems. To be fair the stalk I had had the original wiring loom cutoff, so I had no choice.

I could splice to the wires inside the cowling at the top of the column - solder or crimp. But considering how much advice there is about replacing these switches, and that I'm on my third or so, they're virtually a service item.

So I think I want to use connectors. I was, initially, looking for something to connect inside the cowling, and if there's space, I still might. But if it's easy enough to replace down to the original connectors, I think I'll at least look at that.

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

Why are yours wearing out so often? I have had one dodgy one, but that was due to the internals being damaged by the power requirements of headlights. Are your headlights set up with relays?

To consider these as a service item is folly; they are of limited supply!

I'm pretty sure I'm not wrong in saying that there being so much advice on offer can only mean that many of you have already done this job. Sounds like some have done it many times more than once. Okay calling it a service item is a bit hyperbolic, but I've been referring to TR7 front wings as "virtually service items" for a very long time.

And I don't think I'm misusing the switch, other than by using it a lot. It's the indicator side that's the problem at the moment – though it has had a problem with the main beam right from the start: it sometimes doesn't switches over, and all the headlights go off. And it's been really very stiff on the indicators since day one. So it's just always been in need of replacing, but not annoying enough till now to get me moving. So in that case, the problem is replacing with an old one that was already bust.

The previous one was broken by a place that claimed to be a garage, doing the bottom coupling - don't ask why they were buggering with the switches in that job, they were probably looking for a third hand so they could find their ars*. I think I broke the one that was on, turning the switches over so the indicator switch is on the left and the wipers on the right - like most modern cars. As the TR7 (after about 79 y.m.) and the wife's car are both that way, it suits me much better. I did wonder about LHD switches, but have never seen a set, and it's a fairly easy modificatio once you get the hang.

As a matter of interest, I've that problem with the lights burning out the switch on the 7s, but only once in many, many miles.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

The relays take the load off the headlight circuit which goes through the indocator stalk and it is known for it to burn out. I personally know of at least one person it has happened to (Mark, the previous owner of my Sprint). For me it started when a couple of my sealed beam units failed. The price of replacements (when you can get them) is ridiculous so I fitted a set of halogen headlights and relays are essential with halogens. It is a worthwhile upgrade even with sealed beams. My headlights are brighter, when it fails it won't cost a fortune to fix (just replace the bulb) and I won't have any electrical problems with the relays that I 've fitted. Just one more thing: The relays need to be fused (one fuse per relay. Some relays have a built-in fuse which simplifies the wiring) which will offer further protection. It is worth every penny for total peace of mind.

Going back to your indicator stalk, try some contact cleaner. It should help get it working properly again.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle

No, contact cleaner won't fix it - the latching mechanism has gone on indicating right turns, and I have to hold it in contact. It does work while I do that, but it's a pain. And it works going left. But like I said, it's been a wrongun since fitting and it's undoubtedly a replacement or nowt.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

Looks like a replacement is the only option. It is worth taking the time to fit it properly. Once you've removed the bolt for the adjustment clamp, the column can be lowered for easy access to the cover. I suggest that you take a look at page 15 of James647's resto thread HERE The photos show you how the upper steering column goes together along with the wiring for the ignition barrel and the wiper & indicator stalks. It was useful for me when I sorted out my loose adjuster clamp and correctly routed the wire for my indicator stalk.

_________________
Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle

Thanks for the link- that was useful. I'd still like to understand how to get the column out with the dash in, i.e. just the woodwork unscrewed and lifted out the way. I know that's not as per the ROM. That's to knock the pin out of the clamp, etc. But I'm sure someone said it is possible to do it by unbolting the two support tubes from under the dash top and twisting it round, but I tried all the ways I could see, and it never came free. Do I have to remove those supports at both of their ends, dash and column?

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

I meant to post this a little while ago, but was sidetracked.

The problem has simply gone away on its own, including the original problem with main beam. I'm guessing there was some crap or such in the switch mechanism that's now fallen out. But that's a guess. So my current plan, as nearly always, is to leave well alone.

But I do hate it when problems just up and fix themselves - I may never know what is was.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

Are the new Lucas indicator switches on ebay any good? After driving mine around for a few weeks in the dark, it has melted the plastic around the dip wires. Of course now I realise it has been uprated to halogen headlights by the previous owner. So relays will be added before any replacement switch is fitted. They are just over £50. Just a bit dubious these days about anything listed as Lucas.