The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I'm about to fit my third replacement indicator switch on the doly, and wondered if anybody had found a suitable connector to go inside the column shrouding, somewhere near the switch.

I have a brand new switch that I was saving that till I had chance to pull the column and fit the whole thing down to the original connector to the loom. So I've been fitting SH ones bought off eBay. But they're nearly as old and knackered as the one that was buggered when I got the car.

As the latest old one I had has failed, both on indicators and main beam – intermittent contacts and some problem with the auto cancel –, I'm going to have to fit the new one now, without rebuilding the column. So I'm going to have to cut the wires and joining to those already in the column. But is there a connector worth looking at, or is it just splices again?

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/m ... 6-way-each
This sort of thing?
There are several to choose from....
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/t ... connectors


If you register with them as a TDC member, Car Builder Solutions give a 10% discount.
Furthermore the last two orders I placed (both over £100) came carriage free .
It is worth getting a hold of their catalogue.........



Ian.

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PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
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Yes Ian, that's the sort of thing. But the question is, is there room under the shrouding for a single connector block, or does it have the be several smaller ones?

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

Why cut the wires???

If you find a tube of the correct diameter you can remove the plastic shroud from the connector pins and then easily feed the wires up and down the column. If you tie a piece of string to the old one before you withdraw it, you then have a draw wire to pull the new one down.

The lid from a Bic biro has a hole the correct diameter to compress the spring on the side of the pin. Just make a diagram of which wire goes to which hole before you disassemble.

I hope you will be fitting relays to your headlights before using the new switch?

How hard is it to have the column out and do it properly? Takes about 10 minutes...column out that is.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

As a daily drive, I just can't afford the time to rebuild the column right now. I did try taking the column out before, but I didn't want to take the clamp off and I can't get the support prongs past the dash, no matter how I twist it round. I did ask. Anyway, I'd still rather cut the wires than try again. And this idea of pulling the wires through may work for me. I'll have to have a look.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

If you take the adjusting clamp off, you should be able to dismantle the column enough to get the wire correctly routed. It can be a pig of a job but it shouldn't take too long if you have the right tools to hand. I had to buy a set of pin punches so I could get the pin out. Once the pin is out, the clamp can be easily removed for access to the steering column where the wires are routed. If you're worried about the indicator stalk burning out again then fit relays to the headlights. It is worth doing even if you stick with the sealed beam units. Some contact cleaner might help as well.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle

It does. 10 minutes to change the stalk start to finish.

Yep, I always do it this way. Quickest and easiest way.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450

One simple way to overcome the difficulties involved in replacing the steering column cables is to remove the plastic sleeve part number 216481. This can easily be removed using a pair of electrical wire side cutters. Once done it will not be missed as the cables are enclose inside the harness cover, part 153813.

Is there a picture anywhere of 216481? Rimmers, unusually, was no help.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

Its the part that you are finding it difficult to get the cables through. The variable length outer sheath /cover. It is not really needed as the cables are held in place / covered by the metal harness cover.

Well I haven't actually started yet, as I need the car this A.M. and don't want to be halfway through at the time. I hope to start later today or tomorrow, and I'm assuming it's the concetina covering the length adjustment.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

That is the bit.

Ta. If the rain holds off, I may get to at least look at the job this aft. But the contingency plan involved putting a CD player in the Herald, and it looks like it isn't compatible with the electro-mechanical voltage regulator that goes with the dynamo. So that's another, possibly easier, job.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).