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 Post subject: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:08 am 
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I have just completed the ‘Trackerjack’ brake conversion and having spent some time reviewing threads on the forum, thought I’d just collate some of the good stuff by others and add a list of parts, a sequence and a few photos and notes of my experiences.

Firstly I’d like to say a big thank you to Jon (Trackerjack) who supplied me the discs, brackets and clamp rings and has been hugely helpful throughout.

The essence of the conversion is new VW golf vented discs that clamp onto the existing hubs, Ford brake calipers, a bracket to mount the caliper in the correct location and hydraulic hoses to connect to the new calipers.

Although this conversion is bolt-on and fits under the Sprint alloys, it does require a reasonable bit of buying and collecting the bits and slight mods to existing components. There is also a potential huge amount of variant of parts you could use, particularly calipers. It seems the best option is to go for is the Sierra Mk 1 1.6/2.0 vented calipers, but they do seem to be getting thin on the ground, you need the carrier bracket as well and therefore can’t simply buy refurbed calipers, as they typically don’t have the carrier. The ones you need have a Christmas tree shaped hole in them (see photo in item 4 below).

First to the bits you need to buy and collect:

1. 239mm VW Golf vented discs re-drilled to the dolomite disc mounting pcd profile and the non-mounting face checked /skimmed, as it is mounted on the ‘wrong’ face in the conversion. Available from Jon (TrackerJack – did I say thanks?).
2. The conversion caliper mounting brackets – one for each side. This is a bespoke machined bracket that mounts the new caliper to your existing vertical link (the cast spider between the upper and lower ball joints). Includes spacers as necessary and setscrews for the caliper carrier. Again available from Jon.
3. Disc clamp rings. This ring clamps (sandwiches) the new disc to the existing hubs. It is simply a ring with four threaded holes that the bolts securing the disc thread in to. Can be either made by cutting the centre from your existing disc if they are scrap, or as I did order a machined one from Jon as it seemed criminal to cut up perfectly serviceable discs.
4. Ford front brake calipers (they are handed so you need a pair) and mounting carriers. There is a variety of options, but as far as I can make out to use a standard Sprint alloy you need either a Sierra 1.6/2.0 Mk1 vented caliper or one from a Ford Puma/Ka. The Sierra seems to be preferred as it has a larger bore and is widely used in kit car arrangements (hence they are scarce/go like hot potatoes, see my experience below) and are identifiable by the Christmas tree shaped slot in the caliper.



Image

5. New brake pads to match your new calipers.
6. Bespoke flexible hydraulic hoses from the caliper to the existing flexi hose. This needs to have a 10mm male convex fitting to go into the Ford caliper at one end and a 3/8” UNF female swivel to connect to the existing flexi. This is again where you have options. I went for a pair of made up hoses from Rally Design with a 90deg female swivel end and this worked well for me (thanks to previous posters for this – the hose is 195mm long with fittings S6091-03P and S445-31P), but there are other ways/suppliers to tackle it. Either with DIY compression fittings or there is also a banjo fitting version on to the caliper that I imagine works nicely. More radically modifying the flexi mounting position to something completely different i.e. to the rear of the hub.
7. New bleed nipples – I went for zinc coated steel as it is closest on the periodic table to the caliper and should resist corrosion better.
8. Ball joint splitter.
9. 7mm and 8mm hex bit for the caliper sliders and setscrews (depending on your calipers).
10. Optional re-build kit for the caliper – depending on their condition.
11. Optional new ball joint covers while you’ve got it apart.
12. Optional hub grease seals – depending on condition of yours, mine were completely shot.
13. Optional brake caliper retaining clips – the ones on my calipers were old and bent - new ones are cheap.
14. Caliper paint – after you clean up your caliper/carrier keep it looking nice for a while.
15. Brake fluid and bleeding kit of your preference.
16. Copperslip and Castrol Red rubber grease.
17. Loctite Threadloc or similar.
18. Brake cleaner spray.
19. Wire brush and angle grinder with flap discs/flexible discs, metal cut-off disc and wire brush for modifying and dressing the vertical link and generally cleaning bits up.

After buying the discs and clamp rings, I sourced a pair of Sierra calipers from Ebay. Jon’s wise advice is to check with the seller that the bleed nipples could be undone as these have a nasty habit of seizing. I jumped in and bought a pair for about £45 without asking, as I didn’t want to miss them. When I got them, I found one of the bleed nipples released fairly easily (use a 6 point socket and tee bar to reduce the risk of rounding/shearing by twisting with grips or spanner), however the other had been butchered and was properly seized. I sprayed the thread with a penetrating fluid over a few days, but I think this is a bit pointless as it seems to me the nipple was seized mainly where it seats/seals at the bottom. The risk is simply breaking the nipple and leaving you with a tricky drilling/removal operation. I tried welding a nut over the nipple to allow me to put a ‘T’-bar on a socket, however the nipple was made of an alloy of some description and refused to be welded (gas or MIG). If you have steel bleed nipples it probably would work. I eventually extracted the nipple by judiciously heating the caliper with an oxy-acetylene torch, until the area was pretty damn hot and spraying down the nipple with freeze spray. With this approach the nipple came out reasonably easily with only a pair of mole grips. I smeared the new ones with Copperslip to make removal easier in future. Also clean up the sliders and grease with a suitable rubber grease.

Once I got to all the bits sourced and in a fit state, the actual fitting was not too difficult:

1. Jack up and support the front and remove road wheel.
2. Remove old disc pads.
3. Cover brake master reservoir to prevent too much fluid loss or better still clamp the flexi hose if you don’t have braided ones.
4. Loosen and remove the hydraulic line at the flexi hose and release the flexi.
5. Remove the old pads by removing the ‘R’clips and driving out the pins then by hook or by crook withdrawing the pads.
6. Remove the two bolts that secure the caliper and remove.
7. Remove the hub nut cover – easy with a slide hammer or use some levering device to gently prise out.
8. Remove split pin and hub nut and withdraw the hub, disc, bearings/seals altogether.
9. Mark the upper rear lug of the vertical link that holds the caliper (this is the one you’re going to cut off later) so you’re sure which one it is!
10. Decide on your preferred method of removal of the vertical link/hub. I released the bolts that secure the lower ball joint to the vertical link and separated the upper ball joint.
11. With the brake disc in a vice (protected if you want to keep) remove the 4 bolts from the front of the hub to release the disc/rotor. Note the bolts are recessed in a narrow diameter hole and you need a fairly slender socket to access the bolts. It’s worth cleaning the holes with a small screwdriver if it has dirt and debris in there.
12. Remove the bolts and dust shields from the vertical link. Keep the lower one for reuse.
13. Now to modify the vertical link. Cut the upper rear mounting lug from the vertical link using an angle grinder. This gives space for the new mounting bracket and caliper mount. Note: photos show the near-side.


Image

14. Grind about 3mm or so from the inside (same side as the stub axle) of the vertical link lower lugs. This gives running clearance for the new disc/rotor. That’s all the work to the link.
15. You’ve now got a few bits to clean up and paint as you see fit, it’s much nicer working on clean stuff. Clean up the caliper sliders as well. Use suitable personal protective equipment.
16. Now back to the hub/discs. Firstly, I replaced the rear hub grease seal as the old one was shot. I got replacements from Chris Witor, but they are not a good fit (slightly undersize) and I had to expand the ring to get a reasonably tight fit. You simply gently lever the old seal retaining ring from above the hub rear bearing and press a new one on. Remove the rear bearing whilst the seal is off and repack with LM grease.
17. Make sure the faces on the rear of the hub that the disc mounts too are clean and dirt free. With the hub face down on a vice/bench locate the new disc and then behind that the clamp ring (you either cut or bought) and then bolt the clamp ring tight evenly with all 4 bolts and torque. See photo.

Image

18. Now with the vertical link in the vice mount the adaptor bracket (it mounts to the upper rear of the link) on the supplied spacers and use the old caliper bolts without the washers, but add a couple of drops of Loctite Threadloc. Then torque – I used the same as the original calipers were bolted to i.e.65pounds/ft.
19. Trial fit the hub/bearings/nut to check for a reasonable clearance of the disc to the lower lugs of the vertical link. If necessary remove some more material from the link.
20. Trial fit or measure the lower ball joint fixing bolts with the lower shield fitted and trim the bolts to avoid them protruding from the vertical link toward the disc (where you have ground down the thickness of the lugs). I had to bend the lower shield a bit to avoid contact with the disc and leave some clearance.

Image

21. Now mount the vertical link back on the car (I left the track rod end disconnected for now to allow for easy access to bolts.
22. Mount the hub/disc and adjust the bearing as the manual.
23. Mount the caliper carrier using the remaining spacers in the kit and the two socket capped bolts (see photo). I had to reduce the length of the new bolts by a few millimetres using a flap disc.

Image

24. Clean the disc with brake cleaner to remove any protective coating and greasy finger prints.
25. Mount the new brake pads (one clips into the caliper piston and a dab of copperslip to touching surfaces
26. Mount the caliper using the slider bolts lubricated with the red rubber grease, fit the spring clip at the front of the caliper and torque the sliders to 20ft/lbs (that’s the Ford figure apparently). Note the calipers are handed – the bleed nipple is upward. Dabs of copperslip on touching surfaces.
27. Trial fit the road wheel to ensure the caliper does not foul it. If it does you’ll need to remove a little material from the caliper body. Mine were fine apart from the wheel balance weight was stuck to the inside of the wheel and fouled the caliper. Then remove the wheel again.
28. Connect the new flexi hose to the caliper and tighten, then connect the other end to the original hose in the bracket and tighten.


Image

29. Check everything is tight, the hub free and hoses etc don’t/won’t foul when the suspension is compressed and the steering on either lock. This is can be best achieved by decoupling the shock absorber assembly to allow you to check over the entire possible movement range of the suspension and steering.
30. Connect the track rod ball joint and torque.
31. Bleed the brakes and check all the hydraulics are leak free.
32. Refit the road wheels remove the jack/support and re-torque.
33. Give thanks that Jon developed this for us all to enjoy – and the subsequent fettling by notable others.

As always you may have to vary the above based on your preferences/options/found faults and use your common sense and engineering prowess.

Enjoy your fantastic new brakes.


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 Post subject: Re: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:32 am 
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Nice write up :thumbsup:

Tony

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 Post subject: Re: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:46 am 
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Please send your write up to Dolly Mixture, sure it would get published. Steve is always looking out for articles.

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1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
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 Post subject: Aye,....
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 10:06 am 
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:D It'll get published because it is a good article!




Ian.

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 Post subject: Re: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 10:08 am 
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Not fitted my kit yet,until i finish the sill,dont want to jack the car round,why do you need a join in the brake hose ? cant you get one long hose and support it in the bracket

Dave


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 Post subject: Okay…...
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 10:29 am 
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It will be possible to go with one long brake hose but I went for the two hose set up because
I wanted to guarantee that the hoses didn't foul anything.



Ian.

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 Post subject: Re: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 6:18 pm 
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Cor what a good write up.
I am so pleased that something I did back in the late 90's on my own car because I was amazed at the poor standard ones inability to check the Sprints speed properly has stood the test of time :D
:bluewave:

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 Post subject: Re: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 9:09 pm 
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Quote:
Cor what a good write up.
I am so pleased that something I did back in the late 90's on my own car because I was amazed at the poor standard ones inability to check the Sprints speed properly has stood the test of time :D
:bluewave:
Hi John

Im going to use calipers from a ford KA,im tiring to find some stainless steel bleed nipples with no luck yet,if i measure the nipple where the spanner goes its 9mm but on the thread its 7mm the smallest i can find is 9mm,do you know where i can get some

Thanks Dave


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 Post subject: Yes..
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 10:17 am 
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Quote:
Im going to use calipers from a ford KA,im tiring to find some stainless steel bleed nipples with no luck yet,if i measure the nipple where the spanner goes its 9mm but on the thread its 7mm the smallest i can find is 9mm,do you know where i can get some
I am not sure which bleed nipple is used on a KA, but S/S bleed nipples seem readily available
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... s&_sacat=0
I am afraid that it is really a case of removing a bleed nipple from a caliper to measure its thread….



Ian.

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 Post subject: Re: Yes..
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 6:09 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Im going to use calipers from a ford KA,im tiring to find some stainless steel bleed nipples with no luck yet,if i measure the nipple where the spanner goes its 9mm but on the thread its 7mm the smallest i can find is 9mm,do you know where i can get some
I am not sure which bleed nipple is used on a KA, but S/S bleed nipples seem readily available
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... s&_sacat=0
I am afraid that it is really a case of removing a bleed nipple from a caliper to measure its thread….



Ian.
Ian

thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2017 9:35 am 
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Quote:
Hi Trackerjack,is this kit still available? Looking to buy brackets, discs and Sandwich rings... Cheers, Eyuptim.
PM sent :bluewave:

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 Post subject: Re: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 1:57 pm 
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Just thought I would say that as all my old threads had Photobucket pictures on them they are no longer able to be viewed.
Also there seems to be a whole new group of Dolomite owners who are young, which is a very good thing, as a few years ago a few people thought that classic cars might just fade away with their owners!
Some of these new young owners clearly want to stop their cars :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 6:12 pm 
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Just had a nice bloke who wants to fit my conversion ask about bias valves. I used a Sierra one on a bracket that swivels on my old Sprint but that was because my old original was playing up. I know some people just carried on with the original. What do you guys think and use?

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 Post subject: Re: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:38 am 
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I run without the LSR as do a few others I believe when using your set up :). Theory being the fronts can now outdo the rears so theres no back end lock up before the fronts

Tony

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 Post subject: Re: Trackerjack Brakes
PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:55 am 
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I thought about installing a brake bias valve a few years ago but decided it wasn't worth it, as Tony said.

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