Quote:
Only replace the bypass feed to the coil if you have a different full voltage coil like a bosch blue or DLB105.
If you run a ballasted coil at full volts it will eventually fail and possibly take the lumenition with it.
Ok Ive now read back through the various posts and can see we have mostly correct information but its open to being interpreted incorrectly.
Its good you have a smoother running car, but I'm concerned you may now have a ballasted coil running at full volts. You do NOT want this. It WILL fail as Jeroen, myself and others have said. I'm now also a little uncertain as to how your car is wired up right now.
The safest thing is to re-instate all the original connections as they were when the car was made. So you want all the white and pink wires and white and other tracers (I think the grey one is for the rev counter and may be on the coil minus) on the coil plus, and the lead to the points from coil minus going to the distributor. I suspect this original lead is now replaced with the black lead to your lumenition. Leave that...its fine, leave that in place.
What happens is when you start the car your white pink wire supplies the higher voltage from the starter to the coil plus but ONLY when you have the key in the start position and the starter is turning. If you have an extra supply from the fuse box to the same coil plus connector you will have full battery volts when the ignition is on and this will damage/burn out your coil.
Now just take your lumenition red lead and join it to the fuse box white wire side as before. It MUST NOT go to any coil connection, only direct to the lumenition module.
Do all this and it should work fine.
Jonners
Jonners many thanks for this - on the basis that my understanding of English may not be the same as yours, can you articulate your comments in a diagram? I feel that you and I are now on the same page.
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I was getting worried when you said 