The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hello i have done a search and as im useless not found anything but what is the best oil to put in a 1500 dolly.

Thanks Pete

loads of different makers of oil,,,i use millers 20/50 for the last 8 years in triumph`s,very good all round,,but thats me and my experience

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Dolomite 1300,1980`V`reg in british racing brown(russet),3.63 diff with 21t speedo pinion,95%poly`d,HL clocks,standard wheels with SE covers wrapt in 175 70 13,mot`d 19-09-2014,been off the since 1990,(july2017) stainless steel exhaust 3-piece,(xmas2018) wooden mountney steering wheel,(june2020) new monroe shock(radial front,gas-matic rears) with -1" lower`d springs all round.

Pete

A few on here swear by Millers, I prefer Castrol Classic but i have a can of penrite to try.

More forum members will voice their opinion.

Paul

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So 20/50 is the way to go, i was confused as looked on opie oils and showing semi synthetic which seems wrong for a 70s car.

Thanks Pete

try to get mineral oil based.dont know if you can use other formula,ive never tried so cant say otherwise,but ever since i had triumphs ive used millers 20/50 mineral oil,recommended to me by good mate who works at triumph resto`s near me

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Dolomite 1300,1980`V`reg in british racing brown(russet),3.63 diff with 21t speedo pinion,95%poly`d,HL clocks,standard wheels with SE covers wrapt in 175 70 13,mot`d 19-09-2014,been off the since 1990,(july2017) stainless steel exhaust 3-piece,(xmas2018) wooden mountney steering wheel,(june2020) new monroe shock(radial front,gas-matic rears) with -1" lower`d springs all round.

The make isn't too important as long as it is a decent brand. Like others, I swear by Millers myself and some use their 20W60 classic oil.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle

If you email Opie oils with details of your car they will tell you which oils are most suitable, engine, gearbox and diff. I did this for my BMW Z3 and much to my surprise they recommended a 50/50 mix of MTF and ATF in the gearbox. The gear change has noticeably improved having followed their advice. Good company with a great selection of oils and quick delivery.

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Mike
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)

What ever make you buy, make sure it is not in a "gallon" can such as stuff sold in halfords and other places branded "motorway" it is "reclaimed" oil and not fit even for door hinges
It is totall POO
I always use "morris" oils and have had no problem
Cheers, Tony.

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NOW A CLUB MEMBER 2017057

Try zddp on the search function. Very much needed with the camshaft next to the crankshaft.

Jeroen

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Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com

As Jeroen says the ZDDP additive is crucial for cars of classic vintage...ie the 70's and earlier.


You need to check the API rating as well as the viscosity. You need something around SJ and nit too much higher.

10W 50 will give easier starting in winter.

Valvoline VR1 is good. Comma also do a decent API rated 20W 50.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

And to add to the above, the biggest reason for not using synthetic oils is that there may be an inch of tar-like crud in the bottom of your sump (I have seen that often enough) and synthetics are far more likely to start breaking it up, and you do not want that floating about.

As to recommendation, it largely depends on how you use the car. If you don't do long motorway runs at high speed, or otherwise thrash the car,then any branded 20/50 will work. If you drive the car hard, you WILL need something better, I would happily recommend millers css 20/60, but it is 3x the cost of an OK oil.

And beware the 1500 if you intend driving it hard. Ask more if you need to!

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Clive Senior
Brighton

Oh yes! When I took the sump off my 1850 I couldn't believe the amount of sludge in the bottom of the pan. It really was at least a half an inch thick. Nice and clean now, and with new bearings etc, I might end up using a semi-synthetic. Opie recommends a 10W-40 for the 1850 engine. Surprisingly to me, they recommend the same type and grade for the 1500 OHV engine as well.

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Mike
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)

I would immediately stop believing opie then. A 40 is too thin.

Jeroen.

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Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com

Very few if any manufacturers will post the ZDDP content so you need to get clever. Look at the safety data sheets for clues and also the API code. The very new ones have very little in as it damages catalysts so you want something like an SF or SG, no later. Nothing wrong with mineral oil, just doesn't last as long in service.

Oddly you'll find many 'classic' oils like Halfords and Comma (they make Halfords) and Castrol is usually quite an early API so you're probably better off going for something like a Valvoline or a Millers which has the benefit of better anti-sludge additives and a decent level of ZDDP. Incidentally too much ZDDP is also bad so don't go adding more.

I echo other comments on Opie oils, their recommendations suck, they always recommend too thin an oil in my experience. Stick to what the car manufacturer says for road cars and you won't go wrong.

My other top tip, depending on the grade of oil you need is look at some of the agricultural machinery oils. I recently had cause to buy some 10w30 which is a rare grade in the UK. I could buy any amount of motorcycle oil which has additives for wet clutches so no good for a car, eventually opting for some Millers Superfleet which is a good old mineral oil for tractors and diesel engines. Fits the specs I needed just perfectly, only down side was having to buy 25 litres but upside it's also suitable for my lawnmower!

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30

I will second that above, a 10/40 is way to thin and will contain much more detergent
Do they offer a free engine rebuild?

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NOW A CLUB MEMBER 2017057