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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 9:18 am 
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I know to use the black non-setting sealant between the rubber and the car body, but is it necessary between the rubber and the glass? The glass slot in the rubber I have seems as though it will grip the screen very tightly. When two professional fitters put the screen in my Elan they just used a soapy solution to lubricate the glass. Opinions please.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 11:09 am 
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Most 'screens I've removed have some form of guk around the edge of the glass as well. Not a lot, admittedly, but some...


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 11:35 am 
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When I recently did my 1850 rear screen I used the black non-setting sealant but only from the outside of the car as I didn't want to get the gloopy mess on the headlining or interior trim.
As far as possible I used a caulk gun from the outside between both the rubber & glass and the rubber and body. Its difficult to use the caulk gun all the way round due the the boot lid projection and the roof overhang. Its rather easier with 2 people, one to prise the seal back and one to inject the sealant.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 3:12 pm 
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I've seen water get into the car because there was no sealant between glass and seal. I did as Tony is recommending and poked a nozzle between screen and seal and ran it around. This was my front screen, the rear screen was fitted with its original rubber, so no problems.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 2:20 pm 
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I used waxoil rubbed into the groove for the glass and the groove for the body side. Acts as a lube as well as providing a seal when it goes off. The bottom corners always look like they "pull " slightly and dont seal to the body very well, so sealing here is more important imo

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:51 pm 
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Plus of course, if the car is left standing in the rain, a small puddle forms in each lower corner, between the glass and the rubber. So, if not sealed tight, it WILL let water in!

Steve

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'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 10:03 pm 
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I hate that puddle, im always drying it after a drop of rain, as if it helps if its out all night lol

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 11:51 pm 
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The Carledo has, in the last few weeks, started to admit a little water in the n/s/f corner, almost certainly from the puddle. I've not had the screen out during my 7 year ownership and it's been bone dry up till now. But i'll have to fix it soon since the b****y drip is right over my engine ECU!

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 12:15 pm 
I have found that if you put the non-setting stuff around the glass bits of crud stick to it.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:25 pm 
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Well I have got the rear screen in today. What a bl**dy awful job. I put a bead of sealant around the flange on the body, and a thin bead in the rubber groove where the glass was going. Not a brilliant idea as I got so messy. It took ages to get the rubber to sit around the glass - several pieces of masking tape needed to keep it from coming off again. Then put the cord in the body groove, put the bottom of the glass against the frame and realized that the roof gets in the way.

Took it out again, tucked the top edge under the roof overhang and tried again. After much grunting and heaving and swearing I got the centre bottom up against the flange, so then started to pull the cord. And generally the system worked, although there was much banging of the glass with my gloved hands, and many attempts to push it downwards. Doing this is far from easy because of that ruddy roof overhang again. Anyway, by carefully pulling the cord, and using some plastic tools to assist the rubber over the flange it got done.

Then of course I had to clean up the glass and the body, and also tuck the headlining inside the rubber where it had been forced out during assembly. I am knackered, and I still have the front one to do, and the chrome trim for both. At least there's no roof overhang at the front. Hey-ho, it keeps me busy.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 8:46 pm 
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Two people makes this a bit easier....sorry for stating the obvious, but it really helps a lot.


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 Post subject: Hmm
PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 9:27 pm 
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Quote:
I still have the front one to do, and the chrome trim for both.
You can fit the rubber around the screen and then fit the chrome strip.
That's how I have done them because I can't see a reason not to?




Ian.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 9:52 pm 
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Quote:
That's how I have done them because I can't see a reason not to?
The principle of the finisher strip is to expand the outwardly visible part of the seal so as to push the one flange against the bodywork and the other against the glass. If you put the strip in before installing the glass you are trying to install it pre-expanded. Obviously possible, but probably harder.

Bumpa: you did have the chord inside the car, didn't you?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 10:39 pm 
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Yes the cord was inside the car - I watched a YouTube video on how to do it. Wouldn't it be great to have some help! Unfortunately I have to do all my garage work single handed.

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(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)


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