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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 11:10 am 
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I was just wondering if this is a known problem: Changing down from 3rd to 2nd takes rather more force than any other gear change, even 4th to 2nd. I was wondering if it might be a lazy synchro. But there's never any grinding of the gears like if I change without disengaging the clutch properly, even if I rush the change. Just a bit more resistance than with any other gears. And 4th to 2nd isn't the same problem. Also wiggling the stick left to right, or pushing towards 1st on the way - but not into gear - seem to help a bit.

I have a complete spare box and overdrive. But I don't want to go there while it's just a minor issue - it doesn't seem to be getting any worse, and it been like this for some time, possibly since I got the car.

Graham.

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 2:14 pm 
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What grade oil are you using? If 90 it may be worth trying 75/80 (gl4)

Tony

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 4:12 pm 
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It is 90 IIRC, but would that not affect the other changes as well?

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 4:17 pm 
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Hi, Is it better when really hot?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 6:25 pm 
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Hi, Is it better when really hot?
No, much the same at all temperatures.

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 6:29 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Hi, Is it better when really hot?
No, much the same at all temperatures.

Graham
Possibly a sychro problem? how about when using double declutch method?

Tony.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 7:09 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Hi, Is it better when really hot?
No, much the same at all temperatures.

Graham
Possibly a sychro problem? how about when using double declutch method?

Tony.
Tony

How do you double declutch


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 7:27 pm 
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https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/ho ... ason-unrau


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 8:31 pm 
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As above :)
Very good article that :D Its how i was taught many years ago and it never goes away :wink:
Tony.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 11:06 pm 
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Have you checked the state of lubrication of the gear stick base? Years ago I had a stiff change, so I took the tunnel covers off and greased
the gearstick base under the sprung cup where it goes on the box remote extension.

You just need to do the tray and carpet and rubber grommet. The main tunnel can stay in place.

No crunching means the synchros are probably ok... when its greased you will tell better.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 6:18 pm 
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Quote:
how about when using double declutch method?

Tony.
It does seem to help if I blip the throttle, or wait for the car to slow, or just firmly hold the stick against the gear (if that makes sense). But double cluching itself doesn't seem to make much if any difference - though it's not a skill I'm practiced at.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 6:24 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:35 pm
Posts: 1735
Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
Quote:
Have you checked the state of lubrication of the gear stick base? Years ago I had a stiff change, so I took the tunnel covers off and greased
the gearstick base under the sprung cup where it goes on the box remote extension.

You just need to do the tray and carpet and rubber grommet. The main tunnel can stay in place.

No crunching means the synchros are probably ok... when its greased you will tell better.

Jonners
I haven't tried that yet. I should, because I was down there replacing the overdrive feed not so long back, but I forgot till it was all back together. I'm hoping the lack of crunch is a good sign, though that a blip seems to help it drop in worries me.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2017 6:28 pm
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Location: NANTWICH.
hi Graham, It sounds to me to be a sychro fault,as blipping the throttle is nearly double de clutching. Although i would try "Jonners" fix first :D or try changing the oil to a thinner spec. Also make sure it is gl4.
I would always start at the cheapest way first and then work your way up if thats any help?
Cheers, Tony.

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